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Old 15th May 2011, 07:20 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norman bates View Post
without baffle step, narrow boxes can be shouty
No problems here, today. Alpair selection...

dave
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Old 15th May 2011, 10:10 AM   #22
togril is offline togril  Australia
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"No problems here, today"

Great to read about the alpairs
I would go the alpair 7, But my budget is limited.

Have done some more listening today, It's tricky, as where I am at the moment is the most unideal listing space available - except at low level. (tiles and painted breezeblock - like your bathroom!).

I think there is enough promise to go with the TB5" build, unless, you (dave /Jeff)? have a strong feeling against.

Jeff - were you specifying 18mm? (Baffle X2?)
I am limited to woods up here - can get Hoop Pine BB Ply 15mm, Aruaco ply BC@18mm, mdf is easy - but probably not a good idea.
Am limited in my experience with, resistors + Baffle Step Correction as norman stated, and possibly the reduction/attenuation of any shout later.

Anyway, I'm willing. And possible an idiot.
Hardest part, I think, is finding a 45deg bandsaw.

Finally - should I be concerned about the closeness of the vents to the rear wall?
Anyway, thanks all for the input and feedback so far, regardless.

Will.

Last edited by togril; 15th May 2011 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 15th May 2011, 08:23 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by togril View Post
Have done some more listening today, It's tricky, as where I am at the moment is the most unideal listing space available - except at low level. (tiles and painted breezeblock - like your bathroom!).
If you expect to be there for a while, you may want to tweek the box design for a "warmer" response.

Quote:
Originally Posted by togril View Post
I think there is enough promise to go with the TB5" build, unless, you (dave /Jeff)? have a strong feeling against.
I say go for it! You're the guinea pig for this driver/box, but you'll be the only one on the planet with a pair.

Quote:
Originally Posted by togril View Post
Jeff - were you specifying 18mm? (Baffle X2?)
I am limited to woods up here - can get Hoop Pine BB Ply 15mm, Aruaco ply BC@18mm, mdf is easy - but probably not a good idea.
You could build most of the box with 15mm, but I'd use 18mm for the front and rear baffles. The 12mm vent spacers could be just about any kind of wood, even mdf (gasp).

Quote:
Originally Posted by togril View Post
Anyway, I'm willing. And possible an idiot.
Hardest part, I think, is finding a 45deg bandsaw.
A nice big table saw would be the best for cutting, with a relatively fine carbide tipped blade.

Quote:
Originally Posted by togril View Post
Finally - should I be concerned about the closeness of the vents to the rear wall?
Yes.

jeff
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Old 15th May 2011, 09:19 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinylkid58 View Post
The 12mm vent spacers could be just about any kind of wood, even mdf (gasp).
I would suggest a dissimilar material. MDF or solid wood is good here.

dave
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Old 17th May 2011, 08:41 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by togril View Post
Hi all - so built a mock up of the 20ltr onken type thing, supplied by Jeff. (see attached images). and hooked it up to a daytona T100a and an iphone.
Bear in mind....it's cardboard + I have no testing equipment save a mulitmeter (is that usefull?)
Would be hoping for more bass response + "punch" with wood.
Togril.
Hi, I've seen cardboard loudspeaker boxes being sold in a Akihabara/Kyoto shop, there was a three-partition box (double bass reflex alignment) for my Fostex 88ES. Highly curious.
The cardboard was a stiff type, not corrugated.
So don't dismiss cardboard!
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Old 17th May 2011, 11:53 AM   #26
togril is offline togril  Australia
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So don't dismiss cardboard!

very interesting.
Yes - cardboard is brilliant.
Very limited supplies out here, but the place I went to had cardboard pallettes that were certified to 1.5 ton (downward force).

Well - I'm definitely going to be building these + have sourced the matrerials..........er....except for the wool / cotton felt. Spotlight has some v. thin sheets (see pink stuff in previous post images) ,
but if anyone knows of a good Northern Territories source....

.......Sharing is caring!

Thanks for all the input and plans - stand by.

Last edited by togril; 17th May 2011 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 17th May 2011, 12:00 PM   #27
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To improve the stiffness of the cardboard, you can soak it with a diluted kind of varnish, or I imagine, even submersing it.
This will create a very hard result, like the structured metals in airplanes (aerolam) also useful for speaker enclosures.
If the result is a bit high resonant, add a layer of latex paint.
I feel like Mr. Bricolage, as the French so aptly call it
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Old 12th July 2011, 11:39 AM   #28
togril is offline togril  Australia
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Default New Onken Influenced Speakers

Ok...
Well, here they are: the fOnken inspired speakers using the Tangband W5-1611SA. It took a while to get the (near) equivalent materials.
They are constructed with a high grade Hoop Pine Ply which will be softer than BBirch, and less laminations. All panels are 15mm, Baffle is 20. Spacers for the vents are MDF. Box constructed then cutting the 45 degrees after assembly.
Dual Posts on the back are in case I decide to be a girl and put a x-over in them with a tweeter on top of the cab. screws in back panel are temporary.
Damping is a wool mix 12mm underlay.

How do they sound?
Pretty good so far. The listening env is crap - (look at the wall in the images).

They are a (v.small) bit shouty - but they are not run in at all, so Ill wait it out.

....Actually they sound bloody great! nice separation, responding well to all manner of music thus far, clear, ballanced and suprisingly good wide frequency response.


Internal wiring is some thick auto wire I had .... I only have that, some "braided" speaker cable and some cat 5.
Should I leave the auto cable in?

Big Thanks to Jeff for the original plans and Dave for the inspiration.

Thanks to Joe Meek book on the table for added support. and my better half for putting up with a million trips to Bunnings.

This was all done with very limited tools. Very limited.

There are no correction or electrical components added. just as is.
Any comments / suggestions to that are welcome.

All in all, I am V.happy.
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Last edited by togril; 12th July 2011 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 12th July 2011, 11:53 AM   #29
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a couple more pics:

tgril.
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Old 12th July 2011, 03:37 PM   #30
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I find the (F)Onken good for near field monitoring, the ports exit close to the driver so integration of LF output with the output of the driver happens over relatively short distances. In my case I restricted the ports (slots) to being right next to the driver so I used only 2 slots per side instead of 3. (find my thread on Moon Onken for details).
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