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Old 9th May 2011, 05:43 AM   #21
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Talaerts, can you tell us any more about that article?
They tested the driver (as part of a big fullrange driver test) and that's what they recommended. Elsewhere in the magazine they have some more info on the baffe step concept.
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Old 9th May 2011, 12:16 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by chazdrumzalot View Post
Furthermore, considering the W5's relatively low xmax (3mm or so) it would be advisable in the above configurations to make a dual-chamber reflex to suppress excursion. I've half a mind to go that route now...what do I do?? The primary reason to go the horn route is for horn bass, so what's more important: horn bass, or an extra 10hz or so extension?
Depends what you define by 'horn bass.'

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Scottmoose, is there still any chance you'd be willing to sim the W5 in a BVR?
If by that you mean 'design a cabinet for it' I'll see what I can do when I get chance.

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I would go for extension.
Trying to squeeze the maximum LF extension out of it will come at the price of limiting dynamic BW. YMMV as to which tradeoff you're willing to accept.

Re baffle-step, baffle F3 may be expressed as 4560/baffle width in inches. So a 10in wide baffle will have an F3 of 460Hz so you will either need corrective gain below that from the driver and / or the cabinet, or cut everything above that point to bring it ~in line with the LF response.
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Old 9th May 2011, 01:55 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by chazdrumzalot View Post
The primary reason to go the horn route is for horn bass, so what's more important: horn bass, or an extra 10hz or so extension?
That's a really tough choice. Personally, I like the open, airy sound of horn bass for some reason. It seems to "breathe" within the (sometimes narrow) bandwidth of horn loading. But then you might end up with something that may not do all your records (not that any speaker really does, though).

Of course you could always just build a bigger horn which goes lower and try to get both
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Old 10th May 2011, 07:01 AM   #24
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I put the drivers into a couple of boxes to experiment with different baffle widths. While by no means scientific, I really like the "big-ness" of the sound when I have the flaps out for a baffle width of 20" as opposed to 10". How much baffle step is a factor I don't really know. The sub is still kicking in at 125hz so they're not doing much low bass. I'm beginning to think again about doing a DCR version of the Flat-5, an idea that I'd toyed around with a few months ago. Three 1-1/2"x4" ports will tune a 25L DCR box to about 46Hz which is ideal according to the magazine Talaerts cited. External dimensions would be 16"x5"x33". Because of the thinness of the box the ports will go on the side. Any reason why this won't work?

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If by that you mean 'design a cabinet for it' I'll see what I can do when I get chance.
Thanks Scottmoose, but I don't want to put you out. I think I'll just drop the idea of BVR and focus on choosing between the conic horn or the flat-5 since they are tested designs.
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Old 11th May 2011, 04:11 AM   #25
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Default Took the plunge

So I finally made my decision and bought the six ports, plus all the other necessary odds and ends, to make some DCRs. My goal was always to get the W5's output down to 40hz so I could give up my sub; it sounds like a 25L BR will do it. I'll post pics once the cabs are done (whenever that is). For now, these drivers are sounding just fine in their humble cardboard homes.
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Old 11th May 2011, 06:32 AM   #26
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Perhaps add the 1 ohm resistor, with a switch in parallel to bridge it if desired. Or use a biwiring connector at the back so you can switch between straight to speaker or use resistor/other correction network if desired. Perhaps keep the back amovible so you can add such circuit if desired.
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Old 11th May 2011, 04:27 PM   #27
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Yes, I did buy the one ohm resistor as suggested in Hobby Hifi so I'll at least use that, but hopefully I won't need any other filters!
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