Hi Dynablastertuner,
I just can't really believe they sound that bad... From Zaph's measurements the tonal balance should be good if not excellent, especially for such a small driver. They are so reasonably extended that they should get 100Hz-20kHz +/-5dB on a sealed cabinet! The distortion figures are equally good too...
Of course, I need an actual audition before I can really judge things. But I suspect other Tangband W3 should sound somewhat similar...
I just can't really believe they sound that bad... From Zaph's measurements the tonal balance should be good if not excellent, especially for such a small driver. They are so reasonably extended that they should get 100Hz-20kHz +/-5dB on a sealed cabinet! The distortion figures are equally good too...
Of course, I need an actual audition before I can really judge things. But I suspect other Tangband W3 should sound somewhat similar...
Hi Dynablastertuner,
I just can't really believe they sound that bad... From Zaph's measurements the tonal balance should be good if not excellent, especially for such a small driver. They are so reasonably extended that they should get 100Hz-20kHz +/-5dB on a sealed cabinet! The distortion figures are equally good too...
Of course, I need an actual audition before I can really judge things. But I suspect other Tangband W3 should sound somewhat similar...
I just can't really believe they sound that bad... From Zaph's measurements the tonal balance should be good if not excellent, especially for such a small driver. They are so reasonably extended that they should get 100Hz-20kHz +/-5dB on a sealed cabinet! The distortion figures are equally good too...
Of course, I need an actual audition before I can really judge things. But I suspect other Tangband W3 should sound somewhat similar...
I get more engaged to DIY speakers whenever I have exams... Because after the exam I can get my hands dirty! Alright, enough of the ********...
Here's my updated Sketchup model with a baffle that tapers on the top. I hope Tangband can cut the MDF for me, and they'd better have CNC machine! The support on the back is a pretty hard cut, and now the baffle too...
The bottom of the baffle is 200mm wide and it tapered to 140mm on the top. The whole baffle is 375mm tall and the taper starts at the midpoint, i.e. 187.5mm. The bulge is 5mm.
The crossover problem is partially solved, and now I have to find a place for storing the crossover board unless I want it exposed, which is something I probably won't do unless I have exotic Erse copper foil inductors and Mundorf caps, which is what I won't get as I need a 12mH inductor and 200uF cap!
Here's my updated Sketchup model with a baffle that tapers on the top. I hope Tangband can cut the MDF for me, and they'd better have CNC machine! The support on the back is a pretty hard cut, and now the baffle too...
The bottom of the baffle is 200mm wide and it tapered to 140mm on the top. The whole baffle is 375mm tall and the taper starts at the midpoint, i.e. 187.5mm. The bulge is 5mm.
The crossover problem is partially solved, and now I have to find a place for storing the crossover board unless I want it exposed, which is something I probably won't do unless I have exotic Erse copper foil inductors and Mundorf caps, which is what I won't get as I need a 12mH inductor and 200uF cap!
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Sorry , but ...it will never work .
Or do you think that music content under 100 Hz might be sort of...brain -predicted ?!?
Things might be start to be near to reality with 2 X 8" .
It's a non-sense to place a dipole onto a desk in the vicinity of a wall .
At to lose many 'workable' deciBels to do that
Edit: But you might give it a try ,just to confirm my skeptichism ,Sketchism ?!?
Or do you think that music content under 100 Hz might be sort of...brain -predicted ?!?
Things might be start to be near to reality with 2 X 8" .
It's a non-sense to place a dipole onto a desk in the vicinity of a wall .
At to lose many 'workable' deciBels to do that
Edit: But you might give it a try ,just to confirm my skeptichism ,Sketchism ?!?
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here is a good Thread
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/110583-fast-fun-inexpensive-ob-project.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/110583-fast-fun-inexpensive-ob-project.html
The thing is : He/she wants to build a desktop set-up ,with specialized drivers for bass and mid-highs , but he ( women should do the cooking and knit 
)wants to hear how dipole sounds .
So ,why not just hold the bare driver in your hands ...instead of calling for a help the TB Firm itself to boost the dose !
I really liked the choice of the drivers ...plus a p-p iso-whatever design and at least 2nd order for the mid-tw !!!
)wants to hear how dipole sounds .So ,why not just hold the bare driver in your hands ...instead of calling for a help the TB Firm itself to boost the dose !
I really liked the choice of the drivers ...plus a p-p iso-whatever design and at least 2nd order for the mid-tw !!!
Picowallspeaker,
First of all, can you show me your design? I would like to know how you can make it work with dual woofers push-pull...
Second, with the floor (desk) reflection, there should be some extra SPL from them. Efficiency is around 84dB/W @1m. My parents never let me play too loud, so it's very likely that I won't use more than 2W RMS to drive them. Even entry level amps like NAD 316BEE (40W/CH RMS) can drive them, I guess.
They should work, even without the reflection, down to 60Hz @ -6dB. I have seen Gainphile's S11 and they seem to work close to walls. I was skeptic about the same thing before finding Gainphile's setup...
Hi Dynablastertuner,
I have seen that thread, and that's the one that re-sparkled my interest in OB.
First of all, can you show me your design? I would like to know how you can make it work with dual woofers push-pull...
Second, with the floor (desk) reflection, there should be some extra SPL from them. Efficiency is around 84dB/W @1m. My parents never let me play too loud, so it's very likely that I won't use more than 2W RMS to drive them. Even entry level amps like NAD 316BEE (40W/CH RMS) can drive them, I guess.
They should work, even without the reflection, down to 60Hz @ -6dB. I have seen Gainphile's S11 and they seem to work close to walls. I was skeptic about the same thing before finding Gainphile's setup...
Hi Dynablastertuner,
I have seen that thread, and that's the one that re-sparkled my interest in OB.
Picowallspeaker,
If I've got hairy arms and large hands (I suspect you do), I would try to hold the drivers in my hands. But no, I don't.
Tangband had confirmed that they actually do finished speakers and kits for customers so I don't quite get the joke. I wish to get some OEM drivers of 95dB/W but I'll need a MOQ of 5000 units, so it's kinda silly to do so.
Actually, if you have got the space, try to make a floorstander with two of those woofers. You should get close to 60Hz @-3dB with efficiency of around 90dB/W. If I've got myself an apartment, I would have done that, completed with some 12" sealed subs.
If I've got hairy arms and large hands (I suspect you do
), I would try to hold the drivers in my hands. But no, I don't.Tangband had confirmed that they actually do finished speakers and kits for customers so I don't quite get the joke. I wish to get some OEM drivers of 95dB/W but I'll need a MOQ of 5000 units, so it's kinda silly to do so.
Actually, if you have got the space, try to make a floorstander with two of those woofers. You should get close to 60Hz @-3dB with efficiency of around 90dB/W. If I've got myself an apartment, I would have done that, completed with some 12" sealed subs.
Energy waste . Should have learned trough the Manzanitas thread that Sd is somewhat proportional to something that makes something else happen which is quite independent from floor bounces or wall reflections.
Isobaric is not my design ;http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/104163-push-pull-woofer-alignment-questions-2.html
BTW....
It was one of the most ferocious job a man can do : install two woofers in a very little cabinet only from the bottom ( left open for the purpose )
That's why isobaric configuration may seem a complex job . Nuts and bolts for the drivers in the right positions ,and one removable panel to access them ,to maintain the box structure solid .
You need very tactile fingers ( to hold the nuts ) but strong ,because no screwdriver at any size could enter the cavity ....and pianist...little hands , but strong
A nightmare !!
Wish you good luck !!
Isobaric is not my design ;http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/104163-push-pull-woofer-alignment-questions-2.html
BTW....
It was one of the most ferocious job a man can do : install two woofers in a very little cabinet only from the bottom ( left open for the purpose )
That's why isobaric configuration may seem a complex job . Nuts and bolts for the drivers in the right positions ,and one removable panel to access them ,to maintain the box structure solid .
You need very tactile fingers ( to hold the nuts ) but strong ,because no screwdriver at any size could enter the cavity ....and pianist...little hands , but strong
A nightmare !!
Wish you good luck !!
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Sure you didn't invent isobaric, but earlier you asked me if I would like to learn your own design...
Those speakers are going to be inefficient, but it is always a comprise between size and efficiency... We've got very small apartments here in Hong Kong, I suspect no one can handle Altec A7 here...
Those speakers are going to be inefficient, but it is always a comprise between size and efficiency... We've got very small apartments here in Hong Kong, I suspect no one can handle Altec A7 here...
Sorry for not updating for years. I was busy with my exams.
Now I have contacted Tang Band and the drivers alone are going to cost me around $70, shipping included, which is a steal IMHO. They will evaluate the cost of the baffle too.
I have redesigned the baffle quite a bit and it looks better now. I have given up the 3dB peak issue as it is not that big an issue in exchange for a cleaner looking and stronger (in terms of strength) design. Now the acoustic path is going to be longer by about 6". This should improve the bass efficiency a little bit.
Now I have contacted Tang Band and the drivers alone are going to cost me around $70, shipping included, which is a steal IMHO. They will evaluate the cost of the baffle too.
I have redesigned the baffle quite a bit and it looks better now. I have given up the 3dB peak issue as it is not that big an issue in exchange for a cleaner looking and stronger (in terms of strength) design. Now the acoustic path is going to be longer by about 6". This should improve the bass efficiency a little bit.
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