if 'audiofools' might have access to the volume dial, is it 'sacrilegious' to instal something to protect a FR driver from too much low frequency signal/and or volume and risk coloring / affecting the whole sound ?
or can i solder something (cap/resistor/iductor?) on the +ve lead to protect the driver?
what value/s?
or can i solder something (cap/resistor/iductor?) on the +ve lead to protect the driver?
what value/s?
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How about an inductor in parallel?
ensen.
No!
A decent inductor will have a DC resistance of less than 1ohm.
Putting that across an amplifier will cook most. It'll be very quiet through the speaker so you'll turn it up and then the smoke comes out.
Not good.
Use a PLLXO.
Oops. I traded brevity for clarity and made the suggestion to avoid issues with capacitors in series.
What I was thinking something like an inverse BSC circuit. Normally the driver in series with an inductor and resistor that are paralleled with each other. Instead the inductor and resistor in series then paralleled with the driver.
ensen.
What I was thinking something like an inverse BSC circuit. Normally the driver in series with an inductor and resistor that are paralleled with each other. Instead the inductor and resistor in series then paralleled with the driver.
ensen.
That is what I would normally do.... I was just trying my unlearned hand at speaker level.
ensen.With the right enclosure volume a series cap is sufficient. The formulas are in post 4, ideal Qtb is 0,93
GHP Berechnung, Lautsprecher - HIFI-FORUM
GHP Berechnung, Lautsprecher - HIFI-FORUM
in this particular system its an active sub off the same amp (speakers A+B) as the FRs.
speaker out,
A= FRs
B= sub.
no worries, its all good, the primary user has common sense, and im reasonably sure the system will get loud enough to make most people want to turn it down,
before reaching the FRs critical point.
Fuses do almost nothing to protect against excess low frequency. Also many claim they sound bad
Fuses do almost nothing to protect against excess low frequency. Also many claim they sound bad
only if they're not gold plated or installed backwards
"A= FRs
B= sub.
no worries, its all good, the primary user has common sense, and im reasonably sure the system will get loud enough to make most people want to turn it down"
Excellent advice there. When you turn the bass down (to make up for the extra bass in the woofs/subs), you also reduce the excursion of the full range driver (less gargle/straining and more dynamics/volume).
A win win situation.
Norman
B= sub.
no worries, its all good, the primary user has common sense, and im reasonably sure the system will get loud enough to make most people want to turn it down"
Excellent advice there. When you turn the bass down (to make up for the extra bass in the woofs/subs), you also reduce the excursion of the full range driver (less gargle/straining and more dynamics/volume).
A win win situation.
Norman
I tried big motor runs as a speaker level high pass, but for a woofer crossover at 165ish (which is, I assume, higher than you are thinking). They cost a few bucks, but didn't sound too bad. I could hear them, though. I am using a line level cap, as others recommended. You could probably build a single chip preamp for the same price as the motor runs (easy too, with all the 'cmoy' pcbs floating around), which would allow the passive line level, provided you can also run your sub amp with a line level input.
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
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