'bass blocker' to protect FR driver?

[60ndown]

Originally Posted by derwhalfisch

put a line-level passive high pass in front of your amp, it'll cost you from $3

clever ........ except that would affect the sub.

[derwhalfisch]

Active sub taking signal from the FR's amp's output? Taking signal from the same source as the amp? Or a big woofer with a passive crossover hanging off the same amp as the FR?

[purplepeople]

Originally Posted by derwhalfisch

put a line-level passive high pass in front of your amp, it'll cost you from $3

That is what I would normally do.... I was just trying my unlearned hand at speaker level.

:)ensen.

[el`Ol]

With the right enclosure volume a series cap is sufficient. The formulas are in post 4, ideal Qtb is 0,93
GHP Berechnung, Lautsprecher - HIFI-FORUM

[60ndown]

Originally Posted by derwhalfisch

Active sub taking signal from the FR's amp's output? Taking signal from the same source as the amp? Or a big woofer with a passive crossover hanging off the same amp as the FR?

in this particular system its an active sub off the same amp (speakers A+B) as the FRs.

speaker out,

A= FRs

B= sub.

no worries, its all good, the primary user has common sense, and im reasonably sure the system will get loud enough to make most people want to turn it down,

before reaching the FRs critical point.

[richie00boy]

Originally Posted by Uncle Meat

How about a fuse?

Fuses do almost nothing to protect against excess low frequency. Also many claim they sound bad

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by richie00boy

Fuses do almost nothing to protect against excess low frequency. Also many claim they sound bad

only if they're not gold plated or installed backwards

[norman bates]

"A= FRs

B= sub.

no worries, its all good, the primary user has common sense, and im reasonably sure the system will get loud enough to make most people want to turn it down"



Excellent advice there. When you turn the bass down (to make up for the extra bass in the woofs/subs), you also reduce the excursion of the full range driver (less gargle/straining and more dynamics/volume).

A win win situation.

Norman

[pjanda1]

I tried big motor runs as a speaker level high pass, but for a woofer crossover at 165ish (which is, I assume, higher than you are thinking). They cost a few bucks, but didn't sound too bad. I could hear them, though. I am using a line level cap, as others recommended. You could probably build a single chip preamp for the same price as the motor runs (easy too, with all the 'cmoy' pcbs floating around), which would allow the passive line level, provided you can also run your sub amp with a line level input.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers