'bass blocker' to protect FR driver? - Page 2

60ndown · 3rd May 2011, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derwhalfisch

put a line-level passive high pass in front of your amp, it'll cost you from $3

clever

........

except that would affect the sub.

derwhalfisch · 3rd May 2011, 03:24 PM

Active sub taking signal from the FR's amp's output? Taking signal from the same source as the amp? Or a big woofer with a passive crossover hanging off the same amp as the FR?

purplepeople · 3rd May 2011, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derwhalfisch

put a line-level passive high pass in front of your amp, it'll cost you from $3

That is what I would normally do.... I was just trying my unlearned hand at speaker level.

:)ensen.

el`Ol · 3rd May 2011, 05:02 PM

With the right enclosure volume a series cap is sufficient. The formulas are in post 4, ideal Qtb is 0,93
GHP Berechnung, Lautsprecher - HIFI-FORUM

60ndown · 3rd May 2011, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derwhalfisch

Active sub taking signal from the FR's amp's output? Taking signal from the same source as the amp? Or a big woofer with a passive crossover hanging off the same amp as the FR?

in this particular system its an active sub off the same amp (speakers A+B) as the FRs.

speaker out,

A= FRs

B= sub.

no worries, its all good, the primary user has common sense, and im reasonably sure the system will get loud enough to make most people want to turn it down,

before reaching the FRs critical point.

richie00boy · 3rd May 2011, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncle Meat

How about a fuse?

Fuses do almost nothing to protect against excess low frequency. Also many claim they sound bad

chrisb · 3rd May 2011, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richie00boy

Fuses do almost nothing to protect against excess low frequency. Also many claim they sound bad

only if they're not gold plated or installed backwards

norman bates · 4th May 2011, 12:13 AM

"A= FRs

B= sub.

no worries, its all good, the primary user has common sense, and im reasonably sure the system will get loud enough to make most people want to turn it down"

Excellent advice there. When you turn the bass down (to make up for the extra bass in the woofs/subs), you also reduce the excursion of the full range driver (less gargle/straining and more dynamics/volume).

A win win situation.

Norman

pjanda1 · 4th May 2011, 02:56 PM

I tried big motor runs as a speaker level high pass, but for a woofer crossover at 165ish (which is, I assume, higher than you are thinking). They cost a few bucks, but didn't sound too bad. I could hear them, though. I am using a line level cap, as others recommended. You could probably build a single chip preamp for the same price as the motor runs (easy too, with all the 'cmoy' pcbs floating around), which would allow the passive line level, provided you can also run your sub amp with a line level input.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers

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3rd May 2011, 03:24 PM	#12
derwhalfisch diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2008	Active sub taking signal from the FR's amp's output? Taking signal from the same source as the amp? Or a big woofer with a passive crossover hanging off the same amp as the FR?

3rd May 2011, 05:02 PM	#14
el`Ol diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Bavarian Forest	With the right enclosure volume a series cap is sufficient. The formulas are in post 4, ideal Qtb is 0,93 GHP Berechnung, Lautsprecher - HIFI-FORUM

4th May 2011, 12:13 AM	#18
norman bates diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: iowa	"A= FRs B= sub. no worries, its all good, the primary user has common sense, and im reasonably sure the system will get loud enough to make most people want to turn it down" Excellent advice there. When you turn the bass down (to make up for the extra bass in the woofs/subs), you also reduce the excursion of the full range driver (less gargle/straining and more dynamics/volume). A win win situation. Norman

4th May 2011, 02:56 PM	#19
pjanda1 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Boulder, CO	I tried big motor runs as a speaker level high pass, but for a woofer crossover at 165ish (which is, I assume, higher than you are thinking). They cost a few bucks, but didn't sound too bad. I could hear them, though. I am using a line level cap, as others recommended. You could probably build a single chip preamp for the same price as the motor runs (easy too, with all the 'cmoy' pcbs floating around), which would allow the passive line level, provided you can also run your sub amp with a line level input. Paul Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers