Hello Everyone,
Herewith i made search for horns and other fullrange horns/ bass horns etc for new system, but didn't found any thing which fits my budget/ expectations,
needed suggestion to upgrade for existing system which i have is Altec Lansing 2.1 VS2421 27W RMS, 57W Peak
With Two full-range satellite drivers 2.5" @ Front Speakers: 7 Watts/channel @ 8 ohms @ 10% THD @ 180 Hz - 20 kHz 2 Channels Loaded
Sub Woofer 5.25" @ 14 Watts @ 8 ohms @ 10 % THD @ 35 - 180 Hz Single Channel Loaded
S/N Ratio @ 1Khz Input > 80dB
System response: 35 Hz - 20 kHz (-10 dB)
this system seem lacking in this room, it is 15L*18W*12H. previously this was for desktop computer, now moved for DVD player and Movie/Music/Games.
Now the confusion is I've searched for horns which are better in efficiency, but no idea how to implement horn to my Sub/Satellite drivers i want to change enclosure for system to DRASTIC improvement in sound. I know bass horn is not easy to build, But i want to build something good from this crap
I dont have drivers and AMP Easly available here, and which are available with specification are much costlier then my budget, i just have all material/equipment for building box and enclosures.
I have something in mind is Build a Mid range/Twitter horn for satellite drivers, and Bass horn enclosure for existing sub woofer.
Can anyone suggest me to where should i go? Either to build new system or upgrade existing with enclosure?
Much Thanks in Advance
BR,
Ankit
Herewith i made search for horns and other fullrange horns/ bass horns etc for new system, but didn't found any thing which fits my budget/ expectations,
needed suggestion to upgrade for existing system which i have is Altec Lansing 2.1 VS2421 27W RMS, 57W Peak
With Two full-range satellite drivers 2.5" @ Front Speakers: 7 Watts/channel @ 8 ohms @ 10% THD @ 180 Hz - 20 kHz 2 Channels Loaded
Sub Woofer 5.25" @ 14 Watts @ 8 ohms @ 10 % THD @ 35 - 180 Hz Single Channel Loaded
S/N Ratio @ 1Khz Input > 80dB
System response: 35 Hz - 20 kHz (-10 dB)
this system seem lacking in this room, it is 15L*18W*12H. previously this was for desktop computer, now moved for DVD player and Movie/Music/Games.
Now the confusion is I've searched for horns which are better in efficiency, but no idea how to implement horn to my Sub/Satellite drivers i want to change enclosure for system to DRASTIC improvement in sound. I know bass horn is not easy to build, But i want to build something good from this crap
I dont have drivers and AMP Easly available here, and which are available with specification are much costlier then my budget, i just have all material/equipment for building box and enclosures.
I have something in mind is Build a Mid range/Twitter horn for satellite drivers, and Bass horn enclosure for existing sub woofer.
Can anyone suggest me to where should i go? Either to build new system or upgrade existing with enclosure?
Much Thanks in Advance
BR,
Ankit
System Dimensions
Satellite Speakers
– Drivers (per Satellite):
One 2.5” full range driver
– Dimensions:
3.5” (W) x 3.6” (D) x 8.8” (H)
89 mm (W) x 92 mm (D) x 222 mm (H)
SUBWOOFER
– Driver: One 5.25” woofer
– Dimensions:
11.7” (W) x 5.6” (D) x 9.3” (H)
298 mm (W) x 143 mm (D) x 237 mm (H)
Satellite Speakers
– Drivers (per Satellite):
One 2.5” full range driver
– Dimensions:
3.5” (W) x 3.6” (D) x 8.8” (H)
89 mm (W) x 92 mm (D) x 222 mm (H)
SUBWOOFER
– Driver: One 5.25” woofer
– Dimensions:
11.7” (W) x 5.6” (D) x 9.3” (H)
298 mm (W) x 143 mm (D) x 237 mm (H)
Attachments
A little change:
Title shows for ported/sealed design which i don't want to do sorry, it was for whole new system.
Final conclusion is to build horn/needle/frugel for mid/high range, and TL/Horn for Sub,
Where to start? sorry but i dont have any specification in detail other then the manual specified
-/)
Ankit
Title shows for ported/sealed design which i don't want to do sorry, it was for whole new system.
Final conclusion is to build horn/needle/frugel for mid/high range, and TL/Horn for Sub,
Where to start? sorry but i dont have any specification in detail other then the manual specified
-/)Ankit
Hi Ankit,
I doubt that you will be able to upgrade the system that you have, it is what it is. I think that you would be wasting time and money going down that road. A better path would be to decide on what you really want out of a system, define your max allowable budget, and to see if you can find some designs that would meet your criteria. There are many cost effective, easy to build single driver designs around that would be light years better than what you have. It's all a matter of budget. Just getting or building a real subwoofer may get you where you want to be.
PJN
I doubt that you will be able to upgrade the system that you have, it is what it is. I think that you would be wasting time and money going down that road. A better path would be to decide on what you really want out of a system, define your max allowable budget, and to see if you can find some designs that would meet your criteria. There are many cost effective, easy to build single driver designs around that would be light years better than what you have. It's all a matter of budget. Just getting or building a real subwoofer may get you where you want to be.
PJN
To build new enclosures for those drivers, you'd need to know the drivers T/S parameters. It is possible to measure them with fairly simple tools, but depending on what you've got now, it might still be cheaper and easier to buy new drivers.
If you really want to tear that system apart and burn wood, I'd try BIBs. They are pretty flexible, so you've got more room for error. You should be able to estimate your drivers Fs with a computer (used as a sine wave generator) and a ohm meter. That should help you guess length.
The big problem with reusing the amp section is that with new cabinets, the built in crossover would probably not be ideal. And there is a decent chance the amp applies some EQ, at least to the sub. That could be all wrong with new boxes.
So, it might be possible to build something that works. It is certainly possible to build something less good than the boxes you've got now. If you've got time, wood, and no attachment to the speakers as they are, you may as well start playing. If you need something guaranteed to work, you'd be best to start off with new speakers that fit your design goals.
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
If you really want to tear that system apart and burn wood, I'd try BIBs. They are pretty flexible, so you've got more room for error. You should be able to estimate your drivers Fs with a computer (used as a sine wave generator) and a ohm meter. That should help you guess length.
The big problem with reusing the amp section is that with new cabinets, the built in crossover would probably not be ideal. And there is a decent chance the amp applies some EQ, at least to the sub. That could be all wrong with new boxes.
So, it might be possible to build something that works. It is certainly possible to build something less good than the boxes you've got now. If you've got time, wood, and no attachment to the speakers as they are, you may as well start playing. If you need something guaranteed to work, you'd be best to start off with new speakers that fit your design goals.
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
@PJN
@Paul
Thanks for your input,
Paul, I really don't know about sound engineering and systems in as deep as you mentioned, What is T/S Value and how to find, I am in Industrial electronics and automation field person. so no firm interactions in deep with this much level of work in sound or audio electronics, i have little idea about system rating specification, human hearing ranges/ frequency response, full range/mid-range/high range etc. kind of systems. but m totally zero for audio engineering, calculations, and reverse engineering of it. so i had already interest for building good sound system and for i started searching some forums and google too followed thread over our forum for different kind of horns, for sound systems and performance of different kind of enclosures and drivers, when i get time out of routine work.
by now i came to some conclusion that what ever present system is but it can be improved by horn enclosures. i knew something that in horn, driver size or power is very little compared to output(i.e efficiency) accept box size increases and performance increases too. may be i am going wrong some where. i want to do is, i know some folks build horns it with pencil, needle, frugel, etc kind of home build horns with ordinary drivers and they performed well, so from their inspiration i am thinking forward to upgrade the enclosures. and willing to design horn. i need your help for designing horn.
So m extremely interested to go with horns
now, can any one suggest horn for Mid/high range drivers and for Sub driver?
Ankit
@Paul
Thanks for your input,
Paul, I really don't know about sound engineering and systems in as deep as you mentioned, What is T/S Value and how to find, I am in Industrial electronics and automation field person. so no firm interactions in deep with this much level of work in sound or audio electronics, i have little idea about system rating specification, human hearing ranges/ frequency response, full range/mid-range/high range etc. kind of systems. but m totally zero for audio engineering, calculations, and reverse engineering of it. so i had already interest for building good sound system and for i started searching some forums and google too followed thread over our forum for different kind of horns, for sound systems and performance of different kind of enclosures and drivers, when i get time out of routine work.
by now i came to some conclusion that what ever present system is but it can be improved by horn enclosures. i knew something that in horn, driver size or power is very little compared to output(i.e efficiency) accept box size increases and performance increases too. may be i am going wrong some where. i want to do is, i know some folks build horns it with pencil, needle, frugel, etc kind of home build horns with ordinary drivers and they performed well, so from their inspiration i am thinking forward to upgrade the enclosures. and willing to design horn. i need your help for designing horn.
So m extremely interested to go with horns
now, can any one suggest horn for Mid/high range drivers and for Sub driver?
Ankit
EQUIPTMENT- T/S PERAMETERS
The most cost effective way I know of:
1) REW (Room EQ Wizard) Free
2) external USB sound card ($25)
(with headphones output and stereo input)
3) a precision 100 ohm resistor.
4) a sealed speaker box approx. 1/2 to 2/3 the guesstimated Vas of the test driver.
REW calculates T/S perameters from impedance map of driver.
Instructions are quite good but a little fuzzy on hardware requirements. If you plan on using REW for it's main intent (room equalization), then spend the big bucks and get a USB soundcard with "Phantom power" to power a condenser mic. $50 used.
The most cost effective way I know of:
1) REW (Room EQ Wizard) Free
2) external USB sound card ($25)
(with headphones output and stereo input)
3) a precision 100 ohm resistor.
4) a sealed speaker box approx. 1/2 to 2/3 the guesstimated Vas of the test driver.
REW calculates T/S perameters from impedance map of driver.
Instructions are quite good but a little fuzzy on hardware requirements. If you plan on using REW for it's main intent (room equalization), then spend the big bucks and get a USB soundcard with "Phantom power" to power a condenser mic. $50 used.
EQUIPTMENT- T/S PERAMETERS
The most cost effective way I know of:
1) REW (Room EQ Wizard) Free
2) external USB sound card ($25)
(with headphones output and stereo input)
3) a precision 100 ohm resistor.
4) a sealed speaker box approx. 1/2 to 2/3 the guesstimated Vas of the test driver.
REW calculates T/S perameters from impedance map of driver.
Instructions are quite good but a little fuzzy on hardware requirements. If you plan on using REW for it's main intent (room equalization), then spend the big bucks and get a USB soundcard with "Phantom power" to power a condenser mic. $50 used.
The most cost effective way I know of:
1) REW (Room EQ Wizard) Free
2) external USB sound card ($25)
(with headphones output and stereo input)
3) a precision 100 ohm resistor.
4) a sealed speaker box approx. 1/2 to 2/3 the guesstimated Vas of the test driver.
REW calculates T/S perameters from impedance map of driver.
Instructions are quite good but a little fuzzy on hardware requirements. If you plan on using REW for it's main intent (room equalization), then spend the big bucks and get a USB soundcard with "Phantom power" to power a condenser mic. $50 used.
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