I was thinking a size front 7 inch across by 10-12 inch high.
I have a feeling this size is a problem perhaps I should have said compact.
I have about 8-9 Watt of power. 2X EL34.
The Mark audio looks interesting.
Small room study 13X13 foot.
My hand skills are quite good.
I Listen to all types of music from femail vocal to jazz some rock.
Any ideas of cabinet?
Regards
M. Gregg
Just dipping a toe in the water first build. Always bought speakers in the past!
I have a feeling this size is a problem perhaps I should have said compact.
I have about 8-9 Watt of power. 2X EL34.
The Mark audio looks interesting.
Small room study 13X13 foot.
My hand skills are quite good.
I Listen to all types of music from femail vocal to jazz some rock.
Any ideas of cabinet?
Regards
M. Gregg
Just dipping a toe in the water first build. Always bought speakers in the past!
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Currently in my living room.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...ge-speaker-photo-gallery-147.html#post2521179
dave
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...ge-speaker-photo-gallery-147.html#post2521179
dave
They look fantastic!
Looking at my sizes could you give any ideas of a cabinet build and what size front I would need to build. I used to like the look of the old tannoy six's similar in shape to your photos.
Regards
M. Gregg
Dave,
The front width is a problem. Depth is not important. If I used front porting and a standard shape what is the minimum width I could go to? 7.5 inches is my max available. I understand that the volume is important. Could I have the angle at the top or bottom + port? Please excuse my ignorance.
Regards
M. Gregg
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The Classic Golden Ratio version of that box is 6 3/4 W X 14 1/2 H x 10 1/4 D (15mm material). Those plans are the freebies...planet_10 hifi
And with the purchase of the plan-set, i can juggle things for a custom box, but it sounds like the above would do.
dave
And with the purchase of the plan-set, i can juggle things for a custom box, but it sounds like the above would do.
dave
Just thinking outside the box here......why are you dedicated to a bookshelf? A skinny floorstander (FH mk3, fonken floorstander, pensil series) might serve you better. Even maybe contemplate a FAST setup, as you can have some very slim cabinets when the woofer(s) are side mounted.......Dave can steer you in that direction if needed.
Dave,
Are you refering to resize this :
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/downloads/MarKen10-1v01-map-090810.pdf
Or to build this:
Slim Classic GR dMar-Ken7 0v91 ?
Use this with Alpair7.
Looks interesting!
I guess front ported if close to a wall?
What is the difference in sound between the two?
Regards
M. Gregg
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Yes, yes.
Differences between classic GR version and full-on miniOnken come down to finese. If you can't have space around them, differemces are moot.
dave
Just a thought,
I know the spec askes for marine ply or MDF, however what is the effect if using wood of different types?
IE if hard wood is used or soft wood. Are we looking for a hard non resonant case?
What would be the effect of coating the inside with model aircraft dope to harden the surface of the wood?
Regards
M. Gregg
I know the spec askes for marine ply or MDF, however what is the effect if using wood of different types?
IE if hard wood is used or soft wood. Are we looking for a hard non resonant case?
What would be the effect of coating the inside with model aircraft dope to harden the surface of the wood?
Regards
M. Gregg
Let's keep it civil and simple and just say that there are many differing opinions as to suitable (combinations of ) material type(s) for loudspeaker enclosures.
There are many proponents of solid / or laminated block lumber ( i.e. butcher block, etc.), and provided that your fabrication skills are sufficient and environmental conditions fairly stable, there's probably no reason to avoid this option.
My own philosophy includes using either Baltic Birch/Marine/Airplane grade or laminated bamboo plywood for the combination of stiffness to weight ratio, and relatively easy fabrication with conventional woodworking tools. I tend towards enclosures with lower mass and lots of bracing - only occasionally resorting to "mass loading" ( glass bead shot / clay based kitty litter, etc) for control of resonances in large void cavities.
If using solid woods, I doubt you're even going to find consensus there - some folks like to use inexpensive pine shelving stocl - personally I'd suggest hardwood species. FWIW, the late Terry Cain was a fan of combining plywood &/or particle board (not MDF) and Alder, Cherry, Maple, Walnut etc.
Doping the interior with resins probably couldn't hurt - not only to harden the wood surfaces, but to stiffen the joinery. But guess what, when it comes to speaker enclosures there's not even consensus as to whether thick / massive and rigid or thinner and flexible will yield "best" results.
There are many proponents of solid / or laminated block lumber ( i.e. butcher block, etc.), and provided that your fabrication skills are sufficient and environmental conditions fairly stable, there's probably no reason to avoid this option.
My own philosophy includes using either Baltic Birch/Marine/Airplane grade or laminated bamboo plywood for the combination of stiffness to weight ratio, and relatively easy fabrication with conventional woodworking tools. I tend towards enclosures with lower mass and lots of bracing - only occasionally resorting to "mass loading" ( glass bead shot / clay based kitty litter, etc) for control of resonances in large void cavities.
If using solid woods, I doubt you're even going to find consensus there - some folks like to use inexpensive pine shelving stocl - personally I'd suggest hardwood species. FWIW, the late Terry Cain was a fan of combining plywood &/or particle board (not MDF) and Alder, Cherry, Maple, Walnut etc.
Doping the interior with resins probably couldn't hurt - not only to harden the wood surfaces, but to stiffen the joinery. But guess what, when it comes to speaker enclosures there's not even consensus as to whether thick / massive and rigid or thinner and flexible will yield "best" results.
chrisb,
Thank's for your thoughts,
I am genuinly interested in peoples thoughts. Believe it or not I have never thought of building my own " serious" speaker boxes. Its only ever been years ago when I just threw some speakers in a "home built" box. There are lots of things that have been tried and tested by people that have loads of experience over the years. I thought someone would have some thoughts on things they have tried.
Regards
M. Gregg
Thank's for your thoughts,
I am genuinly interested in peoples thoughts. Believe it or not I have never thought of building my own " serious" speaker boxes. Its only ever been years ago when I just threw some speakers in a "home built" box. There are lots of things that have been tried and tested by people that have loads of experience over the years. I thought someone would have some thoughts on things they have tried.
Regards
M. Gregg
You have me curios why?
I would have thought that heavy and stiff would be better?
Regards
M. Gregg
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Light & stiff is better (at least within my box strategy -- all my designs assume that)
Some background reading:
dave
first of all, the older your back gets, the lighter you want things as you're building them and that may need to be moved during installation and set-up
secondly, the technical .. ahem "discussion" re merits of either method are interesting - no doubt others will be jumping in with their own contributions to this latest round
pardon the ennui, but I'll be very surprised if there's a consensus - even including the agreement to disagree
suffice to say that there are DIY aficionados and commercial proponents of both, and as much marketing mumbo-jumbo as with any aspect of audio equipment
it's very possible to have enclosures that are relatively or even very light and stiff - IMO the brute force use of (excessive) mass used in efforts to damp / absorb is not the most effective / musically consonant method of dealing with inevitable resonances - to which even open baffle / panel systems are not immune
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