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Old 4th April 2011, 12:52 PM   #11
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Just thinking outside the box here......why are you dedicated to a bookshelf? A skinny floorstander (FH mk3, fonken floorstander, pensil series) might serve you better. Even maybe contemplate a FAST setup, as you can have some very slim cabinets when the woofer(s) are side mounted.......Dave can steer you in that direction if needed.
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Old 4th April 2011, 03:46 PM   #12
M Gregg is offline M Gregg  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
The Classic Golden Ratio version of that box is 6 3/4 W X 14 1/2 H x 10 1/4 D (15mm material). Those plans are the freebies...planet_10 hifi

And with the purchase of the plan-set, i can juggle things for a custom box, but it sounds like the above would do.

dave
Dave,

Are you refering to resize this :

http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...map-090810.pdf

Or to build this:

Slim Classic GR dMar-Ken7 0v91 ?
Use this with Alpair7.
Looks interesting!

I guess front ported if close to a wall?

What is the difference in sound between the two?

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M. Gregg
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Old 4th April 2011, 05:07 PM   #13
M Gregg is offline M Gregg  United Kingdom
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As this is a first build,

Could someone show me how you joint the sides and bottom together and get a strong joint!
I assume no wooden blocks are allowed? Or is there some special fixing? + PVA glue?
I would normaly just glue and screw blocks into the corners!

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M. Gregg
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Old 4th April 2011, 06:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Gregg View Post

Or to build this:

Slim Classic GR dMar-Ken7 0v91 ?
Use this with Alpair7.
interesting!
I guess front ported if close to a wall?
Yes, yes.

Quote:
What is the difference in sound between the two?
Differences between classic GR version and full-on miniOnken come down to finese. If you can't have space around them, differemces are moot.

dave
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Old 5th April 2011, 03:41 PM   #15
M Gregg is offline M Gregg  United Kingdom
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Just a thought,

I know the spec askes for marine ply or MDF, however what is the effect if using wood of different types?

IE if hard wood is used or soft wood. Are we looking for a hard non resonant case?

What would be the effect of coating the inside with model aircraft dope to harden the surface of the wood?



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M. Gregg
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Old 5th April 2011, 04:11 PM   #16
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Let's keep it civil and simple and just say that there are many differing opinions as to suitable (combinations of ) material type(s) for loudspeaker enclosures.

There are many proponents of solid / or laminated block lumber ( i.e. butcher block, etc.), and provided that your fabrication skills are sufficient and environmental conditions fairly stable, there's probably no reason to avoid this option.

My own philosophy includes using either Baltic Birch/Marine/Airplane grade or laminated bamboo plywood for the combination of stiffness to weight ratio, and relatively easy fabrication with conventional woodworking tools. I tend towards enclosures with lower mass and lots of bracing - only occasionally resorting to "mass loading" ( glass bead shot / clay based kitty litter, etc) for control of resonances in large void cavities.

If using solid woods, I doubt you're even going to find consensus there - some folks like to use inexpensive pine shelving stocl - personally I'd suggest hardwood species. FWIW, the late Terry Cain was a fan of combining plywood &/or particle board (not MDF) and Alder, Cherry, Maple, Walnut etc.

Doping the interior with resins probably couldn't hurt - not only to harden the wood surfaces, but to stiffen the joinery. But guess what, when it comes to speaker enclosures there's not even consensus as to whether thick / massive and rigid or thinner and flexible will yield "best" results.
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Old 5th April 2011, 04:30 PM   #17
M Gregg is offline M Gregg  United Kingdom
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chrisb,

Thank's for your thoughts,

I am genuinly interested in peoples thoughts. Believe it or not I have never thought of building my own " serious" speaker boxes. Its only ever been years ago when I just threw some speakers in a "home built" box. There are lots of things that have been tried and tested by people that have loads of experience over the years. I thought someone would have some thoughts on things they have tried.


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M. Gregg
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Old 5th April 2011, 04:39 PM   #18
M Gregg is offline M Gregg  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
I tend towards enclosures with lower mass and lots of bracing - only occasionally resorting to "mass loading"
You have me curios why?
I would have thought that heavy and stiff would be better?


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M. Gregg
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Old 5th April 2011, 05:29 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I would have thought that heavy and stiff would be better?
Light & stiff is better (at least within my box strategy -- all my designs assume that)

Some background reading:

Quote:
Here are some of my posts on the subject. The 1st 2 a brief summary of the monster thread (3rd). And the last a paper that supports parts of my approach (discovered long after i had developed my build strategy)

Illegitimate Son of Pensil - Alpair 10.2
Illegitimate Son of Pensil - Alpair 10.2
Discussion on what materials to build speakers out of

http://www.fesb.hr/~mateljan/arta/pa...m-aaaa2007.pdf
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Old 5th April 2011, 05:44 PM   #20
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Gregg View Post
You have me curios why?
I would have thought that heavy and stiff would be better?


Regards
M. Gregg


first of all, the older your back gets, the lighter you want things as you're building them and that may need to be moved during installation and set-up

secondly, the technical .. ahem "discussion" re merits of either method are interesting - no doubt others will be jumping in with their own contributions to this latest round

pardon the ennui, but I'll be very surprised if there's a consensus - even including the agreement to disagree

suffice to say that there are DIY aficionados and commercial proponents of both, and as much marketing mumbo-jumbo as with any aspect of audio equipment




it's very possible to have enclosures that are relatively or even very light and stiff - IMO the brute force use of (excessive) mass used in efforts to damp / absorb is not the most effective / musically consonant method of dealing with inevitable resonances - to which even open baffle / panel systems are not immune
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