I know about the cost of the tools and the need for power and sturdy setup, but thanks for the heads up. However I won’t need that because I want to use solid foam that I will cut with hot wire. Only the front panel will be birch. I am really confident this kind of foam is a good material and if it doesn’t work it will be just wasted time and effort. I build foam airplanes and I’m used to that.
Regarding vent length, is it enough if I keep L1 = L3 ? What about L2 and L4 ?
Thank you,
Michael
Regarding vent length, is it enough if I keep L1 = L3 ? What about L2 and L4 ?
Thank you,
Michael
Attachments
You can do roundovers with nothing more than a hand plane and some sand paper. It's even easier with a table saw. Assuming that your box is square and will fit on your table saw:
1. Make a 45* cut half as deep as your roundover.
2. Make a 22.5* cut on each side of the 45* cut.you will probably need to fiddle with this to get the first cut right.
3. Use a plane to form the roundover. It is a good idea to mark the centers of the flats so that you can see when the line just disappears.
4. Sand smooth.
I did this on a 2ft^3 sub and it worked perfectly --well, there is no way that the casual observer can see any out-of-roundness. Before I got a router, I put 3/4" roundovers on several MLTL's with nothing but a plane.
Bob
1. Make a 45* cut half as deep as your roundover.
2. Make a 22.5* cut on each side of the 45* cut.you will probably need to fiddle with this to get the first cut right.
3. Use a plane to form the roundover. It is a good idea to mark the centers of the flats so that you can see when the line just disappears.
4. Sand smooth.
I did this on a 2ft^3 sub and it worked perfectly --well, there is no way that the casual observer can see any out-of-roundness. Before I got a router, I put 3/4" roundovers on several MLTL's with nothing but a plane.
Bob
Vent length is L1+L2 (complicated by a slight flare). If you make L3=L1+L2 less a couple mm (to compensate for no flare) and L4 >>7mm it would work (using numbers from the 15mm plans -- i notice at least a couple pages that need the dimensions tidied)
dave
Here are pictures of the dMar-Ken7 Chris posted earlier with the right drivers in them.
dave
The holey brace does 2 things. 2. it braces the top, bottom, back & baffle, and 1/ it transmits driver energy to all those panels. The energy is thus distributed across all these panels decreasing the likelihood of this energy causing the baffle to resonate.
The driver magnet should fit firmly against the brace but not such that it stresses the basket.
dave
The driver magnet should fit firmly against the brace but not such that it stresses the basket.
dave
Someone else asked the same question about holey braces, the answer covered some other points.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tube...5-channel-single-ended-amp-5.html#post2528062
dave
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tube...5-channel-single-ended-amp-5.html#post2528062
dave
Good morning all the people!
Sorry for my bad english.
I am a newbie.
I was looking for a small cabinet for FE126EN and Dave told about "expanded Buschhorn Mk 1"
But I'm not able to find it.
Could anybody help me?
Or, have you got any other idea for a small project!
Thankyou very much!
Luca
Expanded BH MKI drawing can be found in the last couple of pages of the original FrugelHorn planset
http://p10hifi.net/FH/download/Frugel-Horn-v1-maps-130307.pdf
This design has been superceded by the FH3, and the above plans are a bit tricky to find.
During the development stages of the FH design we built at least one pair of the BH MKI as drawn above, and it worked well enough.
There are a couple of other compact BLH designs to consider for the FE126E:
the very successful FH3 - which is a rear mouth, so needs at least some "breathing room", if not corners for boundary loading; and Madisound's BK12 - front mouth, more compact and compromised in bass extension than the FH3.
I've built all 4 of the above mentioned designs for the FE126, and provided you have the appropriate floorspace, would unreservedly recommend the FH3.
http://p10hifi.net/FH/download/Frugel-Horn-v1-maps-130307.pdf
This design has been superceded by the FH3, and the above plans are a bit tricky to find.
During the development stages of the FH design we built at least one pair of the BH MKI as drawn above, and it worked well enough.
There are a couple of other compact BLH designs to consider for the FE126E:
the very successful FH3 - which is a rear mouth, so needs at least some "breathing room", if not corners for boundary loading; and Madisound's BK12 - front mouth, more compact and compromised in bass extension than the FH3.
I've built all 4 of the above mentioned designs for the FE126, and provided you have the appropriate floorspace, would unreservedly recommend the FH3.
Chrisb thankyou for your advice!
Another question, the results that are obtained with this cabinet:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...-reference-project-diyref-fe126e-ml-voigt.gif
are not so good than the horn type, is it correct?
I'm also consider the enclosure of Mister Takenaka
Detailed information on Helix-AG180Z
but it seems that nobody has tried then.
In your old post of this thredIt should also work well enough in a FAST or MJK style OB system.
Can you explain these acronyms?
Thanks again.
Luca
Another question, the results that are obtained with this cabinet:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...-reference-project-diyref-fe126e-ml-voigt.gif
are not so good than the horn type, is it correct?
I'm also consider the enclosure of Mister Takenaka
Detailed information on Helix-AG180Z
but it seems that nobody has tried then.
In your old post of this thredIt should also work well enough in a FAST or MJK style OB system.
Can you explain these acronyms?
Thanks again.
Luca
)
well the acronyms have been elaborated upon, so I'll reserve my comment to the first enclosure mentioned : as noted on the drawing, this was one of numerous designs that erupted from a group design project intended to develop a DIY "reference" speaker (as in the sense of "frame of reference" - if affordable and easy enough to build, then enough folks would do so as to have a benchmark for comparison to other designs)
If I recall correctly, I built several different enclosures from this exercise for the FE127E, one pair of which resided in my mom's living room until just a couple of weeks ago, when it was time to celebrate a milestone birthday (80) with an updated pair. .
In any case, the FE126E is a great driver for what it is - certainly an excellent candidate for 2-ways such as a FAST &/or OB , , and they really shine in a range of BLH such as those mentioned above, but don't expect much output from a single below the mid 100Hz range in smaller boxes of any alignment.
Actually, this can be used to advantage in compact multi-channel HT systems.
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