Hello,
I just joined and I am certainly not an electronic genius. I am looking for advice on the best speaker to use to restore the premium sound to the speaker cabinets my father built around 1960. I have researched this but the information is a little to technical for me to understand.
The cabinets are rock solid but the Bozak B300 speakers he installed in them have long since dry rotted. The interior dimensions of the speaker box are 32” wide x 44” high x 14” deep.
Can some one recommend the best speaker to use for the best sound for this size cabinet? Since the original speaker was 12 inches that would be the minimum size speaker I could install.
I just joined and I am certainly not an electronic genius. I am looking for advice on the best speaker to use to restore the premium sound to the speaker cabinets my father built around 1960. I have researched this but the information is a little to technical for me to understand.
The cabinets are rock solid but the Bozak B300 speakers he installed in them have long since dry rotted. The interior dimensions of the speaker box are 32” wide x 44” high x 14” deep.
Can some one recommend the best speaker to use for the best sound for this size cabinet? Since the original speaker was 12 inches that would be the minimum size speaker I could install.
Not many 12" full ranges. Personally i'd be looking for vintage Goodmans Axiom 201s, or 301s, or Electro Voice or Philips (9710?). You might be able to accomodate the new (and i understand quite good) Altec co-axes ... and opening things up to co-ax there are quite a few of those including Tannoys which would be high on my list, PHY-HP makes a co-ax that i've heard somd both promising & terrible (in the latter case the room & associated kit i suspect weren't doing the job),
There will be as many opinions as there are members...
Speaking of kit, this will play an important roll in what works best
What kind of budget, that will narrow things down
dave
There will be as many opinions as there are members...
Speaking of kit, this will play an important roll in what works best
What kind of budget, that will narrow things down
dave
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Yea i know... but every set i've had my hands on has been quite dissapointing. I would thou still like to get my hands on some of the cast 8s.
dave
11 cu ft- ish. Yes!
Actually one of the 'problems' often cited with the AudioNirvanas is that they need large enclosures, so that might be a direction to consider.
Dave (Planet 10) helped me to 'tune up' the enclosures for my AN10s, BTW.- after measuring the speaker specs with his computer setup. He also measured the specs on the AN12s I have (still in the boxes- perhaps someday I will build cabs for them...)
I think the AN10s sound pretty good, and a few visitors have been impressed as well (or polite? who knows..). The ANs are high on the 'bang for the buck' scale in my book.
Here is the measured data from the last "pair" i had/still have here. John's sets were a lot closer, one set was pretty much matched. I don't like seeing the ripple train in the impedance curve (somewhat hidden by the 2 traces @ 2 points, and the high resonance impedance of the red driver. I haven't seen any FRs without a bump related to the size, or even a couple harmonic images, but all the ANs (and the Silver Iris 15" suffer from these resonance trains.
dave
When you say the Bozaks "dry rotted", do you mean the foam surrounding the paper cone? If the speakers themselves are otherwise intact, you can send them to be refoamed quite inexpensively and then use the original speakers. Then you'll be as close as possible to the sound of those speakers as originally designed.
I'm a newbie, so take this with a grain of salt.....
I would go looking at the open baffle systems for inspiration. Specifically I would drop in a 12" subwoofer along with a plate amp with variable crossover. Then I would cut a hole in an upper corner of the baffle and drop in a 3" or 4" full range driver of your choice (Fostex Fe103? Alpair 6.2 or 7?).
No fancy calculating required: the full range is what it is, and the subwoofer level and crossover can be set by ear.
-Tom-
I would go looking at the open baffle systems for inspiration. Specifically I would drop in a 12" subwoofer along with a plate amp with variable crossover. Then I would cut a hole in an upper corner of the baffle and drop in a 3" or 4" full range driver of your choice (Fostex Fe103? Alpair 6.2 or 7?).
No fancy calculating required: the full range is what it is, and the subwoofer level and crossover can be set by ear.
-Tom-
Restore speaker cabinets
The budget for the speakers is about six hundred dollars or so. I would try refoaming the bozaks but I all ready trashed them. They had other issues due to the severe abuse they took in the late 60's and 70's. I thought about installing a woofer and cutting in a separate mid range and tweeter but would have no idea how to wire them or what crossover to use. I am just a dumb pipefitter with some basic electrical knowledge and get lost quickly when the talk gets to technical so I need to keep it fairly simple. I tried to post some pictures of the cabinet but for some reason I do not have a pictures and albums link on my user control.
The budget for the speakers is about six hundred dollars or so. I would try refoaming the bozaks but I all ready trashed them. They had other issues due to the severe abuse they took in the late 60's and 70's. I thought about installing a woofer and cutting in a separate mid range and tweeter but would have no idea how to wire them or what crossover to use. I am just a dumb pipefitter with some basic electrical knowledge and get lost quickly when the talk gets to technical so I need to keep it fairly simple. I tried to post some pictures of the cabinet but for some reason I do not have a pictures and albums link on my user control.
To further develop my idea and to stay (almost) within Cleary's $600 budget:
2 Alpair 7's $170
https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=192&products_id=8862
2 Dayton 100w Subwoofer amps $174
Dayton Audio SA100 100W Subwoofer Amplifier
2 Dayton 12" Reference HF Subwoofers $276
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-464
What do the experts say? Will this play nicely in that big cabinet? It looks like the sub should be set to crossover at about 80hz, with the Alpair running full range.
-Tom-
2 Alpair 7's $170
https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=192&products_id=8862
2 Dayton 100w Subwoofer amps $174
Dayton Audio SA100 100W Subwoofer Amplifier
2 Dayton 12" Reference HF Subwoofers $276
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-464
What do the experts say? Will this play nicely in that big cabinet? It looks like the sub should be set to crossover at about 80hz, with the Alpair running full range.
-Tom-
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Tom-
I'm not an expert (at all!) but will throw out a couple of ideas:
The Vas on the Alpairs is 3.5L (?). Are you suggesting just installing them in the OP's enclosures (11+ cu ft) ? Or 'partitioning off' part of the box?
Don't subwoofers have to play in their own enclosures? When I built my Fonkens with woofers (for a biamp setup), Dave (Planet10) suggested a design with a separate 'box' for the woofs... all combined into the floorstander.
The reason I suggested the ANs was mostly because they are cheap (contact me!) and they require a large enclosure - if the specs can be believed at all.
John
I'm not an expert (at all!) but will throw out a couple of ideas:
The Vas on the Alpairs is 3.5L (?). Are you suggesting just installing them in the OP's enclosures (11+ cu ft) ? Or 'partitioning off' part of the box?
Don't subwoofers have to play in their own enclosures? When I built my Fonkens with woofers (for a biamp setup), Dave (Planet10) suggested a design with a separate 'box' for the woofs... all combined into the floorstander.
The reason I suggested the ANs was mostly because they are cheap (contact me!) and they require a large enclosure - if the specs can be believed at all.
John
The Alpair 7 would need its own subenclosure. 5-7 litres sealed would do. A killer midtweeter, i'm going to use eN versions in my next monster project,
For woofer something with a low Fs and a Qt of 0.5 to 0.6 since most any modern 12" is going to consider that box to be an infinite baffle. Best to biamp. I;d at least put a 1st order PPLLXO on the HF amp.
dave
For woofer something with a low Fs and a Qt of 0.5 to 0.6 since most any modern 12" is going to consider that box to be an infinite baffle. Best to biamp. I;d at least put a 1st order PPLLXO on the HF amp.
dave
Ok a subenclosure for the Alpair. It might be as easy as walling off one corner of the box if you can get enough room to work thru the existing 12" hole.
The Dayton 12" has a Qts of .49 and Fs of 25. Close enough?
>1st order PPLLXO
Whazzat?? The Dayton amp does have a variable crossover. Would a capacitor also be needed on the Alpair to filter out the low frequencies?
(I'm designing other people's speaker projects so I don't have to go down to a wet shop and cut wood on my own!!)
-Tom-
The Dayton 12" has a Qts of .49 and Fs of 25. Close enough?
>1st order PPLLXO
Whazzat?? The Dayton amp does have a variable crossover. Would a capacitor also be needed on the Alpair to filter out the low frequencies?
(I'm designing other people's speaker projects so I don't have to go down to a wet shop and cut wood on my own!!)
-Tom-
Once you've taken pictures with your digital camera, you need to transfer the images from the camera to your computer. Once the images (.jpg) are on your computer, you need to know where to find them, where you stored them on the computer.
When posting a thread or reply on this forum you have to scroll down below and use the "Manage Attachments" button then you select the file image with the "Choose File" button and then you use the "Upload" button.
You need to keep it simple, no sense in chopping up a nice set of furniture grade enclosures. Go and find yourself the biggest baddest 12 inch full rangers you can find and get on with it.
When posting a thread or reply on this forum you have to scroll down below and use the "Manage Attachments" button then you select the file image with the "Choose File" button and then you use the "Upload" button.
You need to keep it simple, no sense in chopping up a nice set of furniture grade enclosures. Go and find yourself the biggest baddest 12 inch full rangers you can find and get on with it.
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