A hole in the suspension

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Hi, a crying man is writing. May be it is an OT in this section, anyway these are the facts.

Screwing a Tang Band W4 on cabinet the screw driver slides making a hole in the cone suspension. It is 10 mm length and 5 mm width, I have the piece of detached rubber.

Can I do anything to repair this damage?

Many thanks to all of you

Ziocalepino
 
Here is a picture of my damage
 

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Disabled Account
Joined 2009
Hi, a crying man is writing. May be it is an OT in this section, anyway these are the facts.

Screwing a Tang Band W4 on cabinet the screw driver slides making a hole in the cone suspension. It is 10 mm length and 5 mm width, I have the piece of detached rubber.

Can I do anything to repair this damage?

Many thanks to all of you

Ziocalepino

I've repaired damaged surrounds using black RTV silicone. First I align the break/tear with masking tape and then use a small brush to apply the silicone. Masking tape goes on the outside and the RTV silicone is applied from the inside, underside. After the silicone dries, carefully peel away the masking tape.
RTV silicone tends to be thick, but it can be thinned with a little bit of Lacquer Thinner.
Sometimes I've wanted to apply RTV silicone with syringe for pinpoint application. I squeeze out a lot of silicone into a throw away container, stir in Lacquer thinner as needed and then when the mixture is uniformly thin I pour the mixture into a disposable hobby syringe.
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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That is quite a hol. You can patch it, but it will nevr be the same. Start saving up for a replacement. You should try to fix it (i'd use the RTV, to glue the piece back in) and put it to a less critical use.

I always practise safe screw driving when installing drivers,

1/ drill a pilot hole.
2/ practise safe screwing. Always place you habd such that th screwdriver puts a hole in your hand, not the driver -- your hand will heal.
3/ Do not use slot or Philips scres. Hew or Robertsone are a lot harder to make slip.
4/ no powerscrew drivers.

dave
 
I have done the same thing, not on my driver but in a shop i was "working at" for a week. They didn't find out about and it was the last week. I used a machine screwdriver and slipped at put it straight through the suspension :)

When i screw close to drivers, and other things you got to be careful with, i always place my hand around the screwdriver so it can only move up, down or around. If i would slip it would be stopped by my hand. I prefer to get a little hole in my hand rather that putting it straight through a driver :)
 
Disabled Account
Joined 2009
That is quite a hol. You can patch it, but it will nevr be the same. Start saving up for a replacement. You should try to fix it (i'd use the RTV, to glue the piece back in) and put it to a less critical use.

I always practise safe screw driving when installing drivers,

1/ drill a pilot hole.
2/ practise safe screwing. Always place you habd such that th screwdriver puts a hole in your hand, not the driver -- your hand will heal.
3/ Do not use slot or Philips scres. Hew or Robertsone are a lot harder to make slip.
4/ no powerscrew drivers.

dave

Practice safe screwing? Avoid STDs!
 
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3/ Do not use slot or Philips scres. Hew or Robertsone are a lot harder to make slip.
4/ no powerscrew drivers.

I agree wholeheartedly. Never, EVER use a slotted screw and Phillips only under diress. I use either Robertson or Allen heads. I disagree about power screw drivers though. I just feel more secure holding the handle of my 12v power driver.

Bob
 
Disabled Account
Joined 2009
If that surround is "rubber" you might consider using a butyl based caulk to do your sealing rather than silicone. It can be bought as "acoustic sealant" and is often used for vapour retarders in your wall. Available at any hardware store.

I think that most of the modern "rubber" surrounds are actually made from Santoprene TPE, a blend.
Regardless of whatever he uses to attempt a repair, with that large of a hole he's screwed (literally).
 
Well anyway it's a good thing he didn't slip and jab his hand!

I think I would rather slip and jab my hand in that one.
MB quarts=mainly automotive. The issue was more of carelessness (when you've drilled hundreds of speakers before) and it was a horrible angle, door speakers with wood ring, me squatting.

And you guys are right, with a hole that size, hard to fix. I ended up epoxying/silicone it and it was perfect but I felt there was still distortion or something not right comparing the two. But since it was in a car and it was 2 ways, meh.

I also learned to only use short screwdrivers and not a power drill when playing with expensive drivers... but isn't that part of the DIY fun? We can learn all we want/can by sponging every thread post but the accidents are what shapes our real world experience.
 
Disabled Account
Joined 2009
I think I would rather slip and jab my hand in that one.
MB quarts=mainly automotive. The issue was more of carelessness (when you've drilled hundreds of speakers before) and it was a horrible angle, door speakers with wood ring, me squatting.

And you guys are right, with a hole that size, hard to fix. I ended up epoxying/silicone it and it was perfect but I felt there was still distortion or something not right comparing the two. But since it was in a car and it was 2 ways, meh.

I also learned to only use short screwdrivers and not a power drill when playing with expensive drivers... but isn't that part of the DIY fun? We can learn all we want/can by sponging every thread post but the accidents are what shapes our real world experience.

Yeah, I hear you.

I was in a hurry once, under pressure to get the job done quickly. My hand was where it shouldn't have been and I stabbed myself with a very sharp wood chisel. It took five stitches to close the wound. But, I didn't ruin the work!

Rush Job Policy
You want it bad, you get it bad.
The worse you want it. the worse you get it.
 
Disabled Account
Joined 2009
If that surround is "rubber" you might consider using a butyl based caulk to do your sealing rather than silicone. It can be bought as "acoustic sealant" and is often used for vapour retarders in your wall. Available at any hardware store.

Your post helped me exercise my memory. I was just reading about TYVEK the other day. It's a breathable water barrier manufactured by DuPont, used in housing, building construction. It is made from HDPE, High-Densitiy Polyethelyene.
 
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