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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Hi All,
I'm new here and thought I'd share my recent Fonken build with you all. I got the FE127en drivers from Dave at P10 and the cabs were built as recommended in 1/2" birch ply, 3/4 for front baffle. Joints were 1/2 lapped for extra surface contact for the glue. Boxes built and then the champher was cut in one pass on bench saw. Rebated the cab top and bottom so the brace slides in to meet the back of the drivers. My router and table saw did most of the hard work. All internals are lined with 12mm dense wool fabric. Speakers are sat on the wool in one of the pics below. Finished with 2 undercoats and 3 coats of white diamond/eggshell. The champhered edge has 6 coats of clear satin laquer. I built some simple stands to match. 500mm long - M12 threaded rods through a 38mm flag. The top is MDF which is countersunk to accept the nuts on the rods. And that's about it. Only had chance to give them a quick workout but will post my impressions once I've had an extended listen this weekend. Here's a few pics....... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Nice, thanks for posting.
Note about posting photos:http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs...ges-forum.html Thank you.
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Take the Speaker Voltage Test! |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Vancouver Isl. B.C.
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Nice job Decca! They are certainly a fun build, and the tight, controlled bass is special IMHO.
High WAF too! Thanks for posting. Don |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Quote:
Massively high WAF |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Outstanding. I always appreciate clear pictures of things I've considered building but held off on because computer drawings don't give enough information.
Currently working on assembling a K12 Karlson. |
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#6 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
I'd suggest something that is not a sub per se. A good midbass -- there are tons of those -- that has good response up to at least 1k. Gives up some on the bottom, for good integration with the Fonken. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Romania
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Very nice build. I am thinking more and more often to a Fonken. I would do only two "improvements" to this design. I would try to round-over the sharp edges (it's already great the angle with the baffle is 45, not 90). I think this would also contribute positively to the looks of it, not only help diffraction. And second, I would definitely try to bury the frame of the 127 in the baffle.
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
And, when you say midbass, is that just a sub but with midbass characteristics? |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Quote:
I'd appreciate more info on the mid bass option you describe too. I've a couple of redundent 6.5" woofers I could use with the right cabinet or do you have any recommendations that you could supply and or/ cabinet designs or links ? They will need to be powered seperately I imagine ? Thanks |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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I think that depends on the room and the amp. I built a pair of FE127e Fonken Primes. In my (13.5'x16') room connected to a 1972 vintage Sansui 4000 receiver, the SPL at 40 Hz is the same as at 200 Hz when played at moderate levels (85 dB peaks). Below 40 Hz it drops like a stone. I think Dave rates them as hitting 60 Hz--but he seems to like tubes and has (IIRC) a larger room. As always: YMMV.
Cheers, Jim
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