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#11 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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So much depends on how loud you have to have it.
My room is largish (bigger than yours). I think the sweet spot is 4-5". No matter the size of the FR, it will really need big helper woofer(s) to get real bass impact. You can get pretty low (and with finesse) with some of the FRs in this size (the CSS EL70 is a real stunner in this department), but they just can;t move the air needed for lots of impact. Besides, freeing the FR of low bass, gives big imprvements in mirange & HF finese. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Whoa
Scott !!I wasn't clear -it should be noted that I'm quite a profane - I was referring more to the relation between cone diameter and directivity towards frequency . As this implies also bandwidth and positioning of the speakers ... ![]() ...given the same motor , a lighter cone -and possibly little to reduce cone diaphgram non-linearities (break-ups)- has more speed ,thus being able to 'throw' sound to a longer distance . |
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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Quote:
A good example, the TAD midrange 12" (!!) TM-1201 with Le= 0,68, BL=26, mms = a whoppin' 60 grams, BUT the motor force is a brutal 14.500 G. This driver is as "fast" and dynamic as it gets before moving to horns and CD's. Rimshots etc. that will throw you out of your chair! |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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Concerning size of the optimal FR driver my absolute preferred would have to be 8". At least if your room has a fairly nice size, let's say 1.200 cu.ft. or more.
There is a reason for so many manufacturers offering this particular size of drivers, and YES, there are exeptions of course, but in general an 8" is quite capable and have compromises within reasonable values. |
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Quote:
Phase shifts inherently happen when a speaker is requested to reproduce full band . Oh sorry should I be addressed as a bad mentor being in the FR forum ..!?!
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#16 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
I've yet to hear a big driver (8") that doesn't give up midrange finese and downward dynamic range. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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There is nothing "big" about an 8" speaker...??
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: near Hamburg Germany
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"There is nothing "big" about an 8" speaker...??"
thats right my 39 years experience shows for a fullrange 8" is a maximum which make sence by membran area, beaming, membran weight.
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http://www.hm-moreart.de |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: iowa
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In a room that big , I'd want 8" plus bass support, but then you lose dispersion. But you should have enough dispersion for a couch at 12' away.
An 8" starts losing highs around 2khz when seated off axis. Playing with a tannoy arena loudspeaker (6.5" with ict tweet at center), I found 200hz worked well (24db/octave), 500hz was great for flattening volume, but 200hz was the best for keeping all the voice in the full range driver. Dual 4", cone area near 120cm2 close to a 6" (listening to a single speaker with zero bass support) sounds congested 12' away at medium volume (listening to Blues Traveler). Now 4 x 4" (equal to an 8" cone area), that had enough area to satisfy me, but not keep me satisfied. Sitting arms length from the dual 4", there was bass. Move further away, there was no bass. It all depends on dispersion you want, volume you listen at, music, and how far away you sit. Norman |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: near Hamburg Germany
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Hello,
3,5 m listening distance is not a large room, every 20 sqm room has this distance, here is a large room with large bass horn
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http://www.hm-moreart.de |
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