I got a nice pair of Corel Holey Basket-style FE-103a's off of e-bay, and I think I want to use them to build a pair of speakers for my office. My criteria are that they must be small enough to fit on my desk and sound good at very low volume levels. The walls here are pretty thin so I can't really turn them up. The amp I'm using is an old tube amp out of a stereo console, PP with EL84 output tubes.
It looks like my two choices are Tony Gee's Solo 103 and the Fonken103, but as I understand it these are designed for the newer FE-103 and the specs of my drivers might have drifted over the decades, so I don't know if they're suitable.
The Subwoofer DIY Page - Measurements has instructions on how to do measurements on the driver... should I just plug those values into one of those Onken calculators?
It looks like my two choices are Tony Gee's Solo 103 and the Fonken103, but as I understand it these are designed for the newer FE-103 and the specs of my drivers might have drifted over the decades, so I don't know if they're suitable.
The Subwoofer DIY Page - Measurements has instructions on how to do measurements on the driver... should I just plug those values into one of those Onken calculators?
Try the Milli-Fonken style box (~5L). I've had P10 FE103 boxes on my desktop before, which were really quite enjoyable.
If you can't measure at least the Fs of your drivers, not sure if there much point in trying to sim them.
jeff
IINM Dave's Fonken designs didn't rely on use of any of Onken calculator(s)
As Jeff notes, the age of your drivers is probably similar to that of a large sampling of similar driver family iin which a very wide range of TSP (particularly suspension compliance) has been noted over the past decade.
Sometimes I'm a bit of a hack about it, but by the time you took measures and performed all the modeling and second guessing towards optimizing and enclosure design for a specific pair of drivers, you could almost build a pair of the smaller enclosures. Tony's Solo would probably take the best part of a full weekend, but if you eliminate the driver brace, the millis could be ready for a proof of concept listening session in less than a full day. "Finishing" with paint or veneer etc will almost always take more elapsed time than the actual construction.
As Jeff notes, the age of your drivers is probably similar to that of a large sampling of similar driver family iin which a very wide range of TSP (particularly suspension compliance) has been noted over the past decade.
Sometimes I'm a bit of a hack about it, but by the time you took measures and performed all the modeling and second guessing towards optimizing and enclosure design for a specific pair of drivers, you could almost build a pair of the smaller enclosures. Tony's Solo would probably take the best part of a full weekend, but if you eliminate the driver brace, the millis could be ready for a proof of concept listening session in less than a full day. "Finishing" with paint or veneer etc will almost always take more elapsed time than the actual construction.
I can vouch for the BS-10 with the FE103/e, absurdly good speaker.
It has been my experience with reflex cabs that a slot versus a circle somehow sounds different. The measurements are the same but the sound is not.
The BK-10 also excellent although I made my final BK-10's "a little different" but the standard BK-10 again is excellent.
It has been my experience with reflex cabs that a slot versus a circle somehow sounds different. The measurements are the same but the sound is not.
The BK-10 also excellent although I made my final BK-10's "a little different" but the standard BK-10 again is excellent.
FWIW I have actually had good experiences with these speakers in the Fostex BR box for the FE103E. For near-field use they had pretty good extension, although they did require a bit of stuffing. That is one of the nicer pairs of FE103A/ Corals that I have seen. I have had many pairs of them through my hands, in fact, I took the picture you posted
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