Really, it's true. Okay, unless someone with good, working knowledge has something to suggest. It follow's the new JX92 design as far as cross-section, cab height, driver height and port length/height. I like it because it can sit against a wall and has automatic toe-in. My room isn't so wide and I think I'll need them out from the back wall. The port could go backwards too.
In the current design port fits but comes close to the side wall. See pic 2.
I'm planning on 18mm baltic birch and painting as per the pic... autoshop white with something like a metallic brown on the driver face.
What do you guys think? Any major objections?
In the current design port fits but comes close to the side wall. See pic 2.
I'm planning on 18mm baltic birch and painting as per the pic... autoshop white with something like a metallic brown on the driver face.
What do you guys think? Any major objections?
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Not sure what alignment you're referring to, so I'll just note that the tuning will be lower than predicted with the vent where it is, so it will need to be shortened a bit. Unfortunately, how much will have to be determined empirically AFAIK due to the angle.
FWIW, based on others DIY JX92 MLTL builds, converting it to a triangular cab for corner loading and adjusting the tuning as required for smoothest in-room response is probably a better solution overall.
GM
Believe it or not, it isn't too large. It follows the new 35" MLTL: 35" high, driver 25" high (sounds awfully low), internal cross-section is the same. They end up being about 7.6"W x 12.4" deep with the driver face being at 45degrees and about 6.7" wide.
I might want to use the 40" spec instead to get the driver up closer to ear level, with, it appears, some loss in bass response. This would make it a bit narrower and shallower, as below.
I might want to use the 40" spec instead to get the driver up closer to ear level, with, it appears, some loss in bass response. This would make it a bit narrower and shallower, as below.
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It just needs some unobstructed air space to any reflective parallel surface.
If they were mine, I'd fire the port out the bottom and experiment with the speaker/floor gap to maximize port efficiency. This will get the driver up closer to ear height or if too high for your liking, allow it to be positioned lower in the cab to reduce the amount of internal damping required.
GM
If they were mine, I'd fire the port out the bottom and experiment with the speaker/floor gap to maximize port efficiency. This will get the driver up closer to ear height or if too high for your liking, allow it to be positioned lower in the cab to reduce the amount of internal damping required.
GM
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