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Here is the cab I'm going to build... unless someone screams NO!
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Really, it's true. Okay, unless someone with good, working knowledge has something to suggest. It follow's the new JX92 design as far as cross-section, cab height, driver height and port length/height. I like it because it can sit against a wall and has automatic toe-in. My room isn't so wide and I think I'll need them out from the back wall. The port could go backwards too.
In the current design port fits but comes close to the side wall. See pic 2. I'm planning on 18mm baltic birch and painting as per the pic... autoshop white with something like a metallic brown on the driver face. What do you guys think? Any major objections? |
shiva5
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Hello,
i think much to large, my Tuba would be a better solution, also place near a corner, look my HP with feedback, measurements and plan tuba |
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FWIW, based on others DIY JX92 MLTL builds, converting it to a triangular cab for corner loading and adjusting the tuning as required for smoothest in-room response is probably a better solution overall. GM |
Based on comments from those that have built the GM ML-TLs, these should work fine. My latest pair of JX92 are decidely better than the 2 previous pairs i've had/heard, but i still object to the very high price of the drivers (my latest pair were donated).
dave |
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Believe it or not, it isn't too large. It follows the new 35" MLTL: 35" high, driver 25" high (sounds awfully low), internal cross-section is the same. They end up being about 7.6"W x 12.4" deep with the driver face being at 45degrees and about 6.7" wide.
I might want to use the 40" spec instead to get the driver up closer to ear level, with, it appears, some loss in bass response. This would make it a bit narrower and shallower, as below. |
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What kind of bass? The sheets say 30hz. Not bad....
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... and here it is following the 31" MLTL. This might make the most sense as the overall size is smaller and the driver is still higher than the 35".
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