First time build with GRS "Bofu clones"

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Hey everyone. First time builder. Looking to put together something cheap for a small upper flat apartment, that will give me good sound at low power.

A friend of mine pointed me to these:

GRS 8FR-8 Full-Range 8" Speaker Pioneer Type B20FU20-51FW | Parts-Express.com

They look pretty interesting. I want a decent bass sound, so I am thinking that ported will be the way to go. I also understand that they lack a little in the high end, so i was thinking these would be something cheap that would go well with it and help cover the rest of the range:

Tang Band 25-302SH 1" Shielded Neodymium Dome Tweeter | Parts-Express.com

I will be powering it all with a open ended tube kit that looks to fit my needs:

DIYTube Get-Set-Go Board with Parts

Basicly here are my goals with this project:

1) Lower my power consumption.
2) Minimize my living room setup for more space.
3) Have great sound for little cost.

These will be fairly general purpose. I will have them hooked to my TV for movies and gaming. They will also be used for listening to music. Mostly Electronic (Jungle, Techno) and Rock.

I don't need them to be really loud. Just a pleasure to listen to.

Would anyone with more experience like to chime in and possibly offer a few build ideas for my needs.

BTW, the room is roughly 30x15.
 
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GM

Member
Joined 2003
Greets!

Its specs indicate a ~64 L net cab tuned to Fs, so needs a 'sub' system for movies, some music and I assume games too unless there's a way to attenuate any deep bass.

A triode amp though implies a high output impedance that can dramatically increase the cab size up to around 144 L, but still a Fs tuning to maximize power transfer efficiency which typically results in the 'woolly'/'flabby' sounding bass of days gone by.

GM
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
If you want relatively small & accurate bass, sealed would do it. Ultimate extension would depend on the room gain you get. Soms based on factory data suggests 30-50 litres.

A golden ratio box of 40 litres would be 34x55x21 cm internal

dave
 

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I have so many questions!

What are the benefits of a Back Horn Design? I see it tends to bring out a little more bass. This could be good if I am adding a tweeter to bring out more high's.

Also, would you or anyone else have any example plans for these speakers? Just trying to get an idea of what I'm getting into.

I'm fairly good at woodworking. So I am really looking forward to getting my hands dirty with this project. =)
 
I Just found plans for the Half Chang design. That would've been a pretty easy build. I wonder how these would sound in that?

Oh well. Gives me something to think about when I wake up. Hopefully I have some more insight from people in this thread, by that time.

Thanks for the input thus far. Look forward to coming here more often. =)
 
It's an interesting driver in its own right when not compared to the discontinued B20. Subjectively it's brighter and less full sounding. It requires less help on top but benefits from a tweeter (i like using the cheap piezos but that TB you mention and many others should work too). I imagine it in a tall Voigt pipe (mostly for style) or a back horn of sorts to fill out the bottom octaves. Perhaps a sealed cab like Planet10 suggests plus a sub is all that's needed to enjoy this driver. I have them in 1.3 cubic foot sealed (approx 36 liters) that sounds thinner and less satisfying to me than when the B20s were in them. I've not given up on them only put them aside for now. For the price they are worth considering and they certainly don't sound bad... just not the same as the B20 they were supposed to replace. I have mine in corners and up against the walls and they still sound thin... so they need some fiddling to find the right cabs.
 
Loud bass isn't as needed as accurate bass. Like I said, this is an apartment so I really don't have a desire to "thump".

?? Where did I recommend alignments for 'loud' or 'thump'?

Also, nowhere did you indicate a desire for 'accurate' bass, at least not what I even remotely consider 'accurate', but I did say that at least one of your amps wouldn't work well with 'small' speakers or with any degree of 'accuracy'.

You want 'accurate', then figure out which amp you're going to use, find out its output impedance, then get back to us and we'll figure out what size it takes for a critically damped 0.5 Qtc sealed alignment. Short of a huge compression horn, this is as 'accurate' as it gets.

GM
 
I offer these up as a starting point for the GRS 8" fullrange driver. Having them in 1.3 cf sealed boxes mine must start rolling off around 200hz as the sim indicates... and they sound it. After doing the first sim i realized i left out a comparison between a simple 1 cf sealed vs 1 cf ported. I like the 1 cf ported boxes curve because it offers a slight bump in bass that may reduce the thin sound the driver has in my room. Perhaps this driver requires a more creative cabinet? Anything enhancing or lifting the bass should help round out the overall sound. I think head on a tweeter is optional but prefer adding one for more twinkle and detail. They push the mids forward unlike the B20... many may enjoy their sound... just a matter of finding a good cabinet for them and then the tweakers can begin finding more improvements.

-3 @ 55hz with a 2 x 4 inch long port. Cake!

Or seal it up in a .5 cf box with the intent of using a sub.

Zilla

PS, the 2 cf curve looks promising too... 3" x 2.75" long port for that cabinet.
 

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