Binding Posts on FR OB

[kach22i]

I have a full range open baffle driver which was originally a plain old woofer. I say used to be a woofer because I've modified it to sparkle a little, it was only 4 inches in diameter and went to 10-khz already so no big deal.

I'm stuck with the original metal + - tabs, would like to solder something on. I have as a temporary measure, screwed the copper alligator spring clips to the tabs and then open them up to insert the speaker wire but it is all sort of backwards from a typical situation one would expect.





I see that real full range drivers have the posts terminals on the driver, this is what I would like to do.

Similar to goal-1:
Voxativ AC3 Fullrange Drive :: NEWS :: AboutHIFI

Similar to goal-2:
6moons showcase: Voxativ




Similar to goal-3:
BG fullrange driver Ether 6


1. What do I need to buy?

2. Do I have to mess with the lead wires or can I just tack on something to the existing tabs?

[AEIOU]

You can modify a driver (woofer) as long as you are confident in your abilities and know what you are doing. But if you have a heavy or unsteady hand or are not good at soldering then you better leave the woofer as it is.
Why don't you attach some terminals/binding posts to the back of your open baffle? Why must a set of binding posts be affixed to the woofer? Can't you attach a set of binding posts to the back of your open baffle?

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by AEIOU

Can't you attach a set of binding posts to the back of your open baffle?

I've looked into that, but I'd rather avoid adding more solder joints, clips and jumper cables into the mix.

I want to make this as simple and straightforward as possible - even if it means I have to think about what I'm doing.

Could I just solder these to the tabs?

https://www.madisound.com/store/index.php?cPath=404_119


Sort of expensive, looking for cheap and simple.

EDIT: These are more my style ($2.40) , might be short enough too.

https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...roducts_id=147


EDIT-2:

Could this:
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Replace this?
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[pinkmouse]

Originally Posted by kach22i

...I want to make this as simple and straightforward as possible - even if it means I have to think about what I'm doing...

Then just solder the speaker cable directly to the existing terminals.

[AEIOU]

You could solder binding posts to the woofer tabs, but the tabs are not made for supporting additional hardware such as binding posts. Simple tabs bend quite easily, either that or the insulator/phenolic that the tabs are mounted to will bend and possibly break.
This is how I would do it, I'd desolder the tinsel lead wires, remove the original solder tab, then pop rivet on a new set of captive binding posts and resolder the tinsel lead wires.

Originally Posted by kach22i

I've looked into that, but I'd rather avoid adding more solder joints, clips and jumper cables into the mix.

I want to make this as simple and straightforward as possible - even if it means I have to think about what I'm doing.

Could I just solder these to the tabs?

https://www.madisound.com/store/index.php?cPath=404_119


Sort of expensive, looking for cheap and simple.

EDIT: These are more my style ($2.40) , might be short enough too.

https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...roducts_id=147

[thelenster]

The factory tabs are designed for a Faston(Push on) terminal, or directly soldered to, not too much heat! The voice coil wires are not your typical hookup copper. Lots of cloth thread and extremely fine copper wires interweaved for flexibility, and very difficult to work with to ensure max connection of all conductors.

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by AEIOU

captive binding posts

Captive


This is Captive?
http://www.futurlec.com/Banana-Posts.shtml


These might work - short.
http://www.futurlec.com/Banana-Posts.shtml


A Plan?
Tinsel leads solder to the ends, then clamp the plates onto the stub where I cut the old tabs off of.
Dual Binding Post 1 Red 1 Black | Parts-Express.com

[doorman]

I don't understand why you'd want to add binding post to your drivers--why introduce even more metal into the equation?
Best, Don

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by doorman

why introduce even more metal into the equation?

Do you mean; metal near the magnet may cause magnetic interference?

This particular driver is shielded, it's the small one on the left in the very first image at the top of this page.

I just cannot get over that something like what I'm looking for is not on the market already.

[planet10]

I don't like posts or clips at the speaker. Give me a good thin piece of metal to solder to.

dave