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Old 7th January 2011, 02:46 AM   #1
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Default Brines TB-20 Build

I've purchased a set of Bob Brines TB-20 plans and have started the build...first few pictures. I was able to skimp on the materials and get 2 complete speakers out of one MDF sheet but listen to Bob's advice and get 1 and half at least so you can cut oversize. I was lucky and didn't make too many mistakes cutting or gluing and didn't need more than one 49 x 97 in sheet. Crosscut sled makes perfect 90s and is vital if you're going to try to use only one sheet.
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Old 7th January 2011, 03:04 AM   #2
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Default More Pics

Here is the next set of pics...I have the small Jasper jig but made my own for the larger circle cuts. Jig is a straight board about 3/4" x 1 1/2" by 18 with a hole drilled in the middle to allow the 1/4" upcut straight bit to clear the jig then trial and error (some measurement too) to drill a 1/4" hole in the jig the correct distance from the bit to pivot the router around and end up with a circle the correct size. (Note numerous holes for different size holes)
Bessey clamps really help on getting square glue ups on panels with no room to spare...even then it was a close run endeavor.

Last pic is the start of the supra baffles. I did make a mistake with the circle jig on one of the port openings but had enough scrap MDF to make a new one

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Last edited by highlander52; 7th January 2011 at 03:11 AM. Reason: spelling and clarity
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Old 8th January 2011, 12:46 AM   #3
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Default Baffle time

Now for the supra baffles...used the pattern included in the plans and traced onto the piece a screwed up with the circle jig. This made the pattern which I cut out on a bandsaw and then sanded smooth. Marked the center of the pattern and drilled 1/4" holes for the circle jig shown earlier. Make sure you start at the largest diameter (makes the recess for the driver) then work in until you rout all the way through on the final cut. I also used 1/4" holes drilled in the front to ensure alignment with the baffles. If you do this make sure you do not drill all the way through the baffle face.

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Old 8th January 2011, 01:10 AM   #4
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Excellent! I have heard these speakers and I think you will be amazed at the bass. I certainly was.
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Old 9th January 2011, 01:41 PM   #5
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Impressive wood working there! Keep the posts coming.
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Old 9th January 2011, 04:31 PM   #6
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It's nice to see results in wood. I sell a lot of plans, but hardly ever see the final product. Good work and keep the pictures coming.

Bob
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Old 12th January 2011, 01:21 AM   #7
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Default Too early for praise

Thank you for the compliments...but I didn't follow directions and the supra baffles are small enough that the round-overs ate into the lip that surrounds the drivers. Probably won't make an audio difference (at least that I'll be able to tell) but the visual rough edge will be highlighted I'm afraid.

I've assemble the filters per Bob's instructions coupled with North Creek techniques (at least as far as I'm able to duplicated them). Pretty messy but nobody will see them. I'll not describe the values of the different components as that is Bob's work. I used silicon to adhere the inductor and the capacitor to the peg board while also using zip ties to hold while drying and for added insurance. Used crimp on connectors, soldered and then screwed to the peg board (countersunk underneath w/nylon nuts on top). Red and Green wires to driver; Yellow and Black to the binding posts. Bob, I'd appreciate it if you could check my schematic and ensure it is correct. TIA.

On with the pictures...
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Old 12th January 2011, 02:29 AM   #8
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Default On with the build pics...

Up next is assembling the speakers. Use lots and lots of clamps...probably can't have too many. Check all joints with the best square you have.

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(note bottom needs to be tapped square with the front)
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(Used a piece of plywood along the bottom to help keep everything aligned, should have used one on the top as well)
You could also clamp it dry, drill 1/4" holes in all the pieces then disassemble, glue, insert 1/4" dowels and cut flush. If you use dowels make sure you glue them in and then let them expand out for a significant period of time (weeks/months) then trim flush again.
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Do this with the top, both braces, and the bottom.
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Old 12th January 2011, 03:05 AM   #9
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rjbond3rd, Glad to hear your description, sounds like what I'm looking for...I listen mostly to Mark Knopfler/Dire Straits and girl/guitar; nothing very heavy and based on what Bob describes as their capabilities I felt this would be a very rewarding project. If anyone has any questions on the build I'll do my best to answer. Bob, I've tried to be careful on the filter pictures but let me know if you'd rather have them removed. Thank you for producing an eminently build-able speaker, can't wait to hear them!
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Old 12th January 2011, 03:07 AM   #10
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Assuming that you used the specified 3/4" round-over and the supra baffle is 10" wide, the flat will be 8 1/2" and ever so slightly less than the diameter of the driver frame. So you WILL have a slight depression where the round-over overlaps the cut-out. When you finish the supra-baffle, the indentation will have a nice sharp edge and will look like a design feature. I did this to keep the width as small as possible.

The picture of the contour filter looks right. I know that many loathe the thought of an iron core inductor, but I chose the Erse Super-Q because of its very low DCR. Increasing the DCR with an air core inductor will change the alignment. It probably won't make much difference if you are using a stout SS amp, but if you use a high-Z amp, you may have to retune the speaker.

Bob
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