Bi-amplification and Fostex 168e Sigma

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Jump to Latest
J

jaylgordon

Member
Joined 2008
I am wondering if this set-up will be fubar or really sweet:

First, I have a pair of Fostex 168e Sigmas in the following recommended cabinets:

https://www.madisound.com/pdf/fostexcabs/168ez_enclrev.pdf

I run these with an Acurus A150 (150 wpc), which I know is not a great match. So I've ordered a T-amp through Sure Electronics (15wpc):

2*15W @4? TA2024C Tripath Digital Class-D Audio Amplifier with Case & 12V PSU Free Shipping (AA-AB341)_Audio Amplifier and other Audio Boards_RF and Audio, Video Equipments_Sure Electronics' Webstore

Now, I have a pre-amp with two outputs (Melos MA111, which I love, esp. for its phono stage), so I was thinking I could run the T-amp and the Fostexes from one output and the Acurus and a pair of woofers from the other output. For woofers, I was thinking of these, perhaps in the corresponding open baffle kit:

Silver Iris OB 15 Augie [SI-OBA-15] - $165.00 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

My worries:

1. Mismatches due to the amp differences and/or the vastly different efficiencies of the speaker drivers (Fostexes-- 94.5, Augies-- 88.7).

2. Crossover issues (do I want crossovers for both the Fostexes and the woofers here, or just one or the other, or neither?)

3. Aural dissatisfaction. I like 1950s and '60s jazz. I like bass "snap"-- plucking of the string bass, bass drum thumps, etc-- but I don't care for the earth-shaking-but-muddy sound of most subwoofers. I like "presence." I feel like I'm missing some of that since the Fostexes just do not have much bottom.

Thanks for any suggestions or advice.

Jay
 
B

Bemopti123

Member
Joined 2004
SS amps usually have too much damping for things such as Sfullrange drivers on horns. I say try a tubed amp and see whether that missing bass returns. I myself have a 208Sigma based horns that had not given me too much pleasure until I put a SET amp to drive it.

I did read somewhere in the LansingHeritageSite that a member had decided to put a component in the amp end (SS) when driving vintage (1950s-60s) JBL amps due to what I have had described.
 
C

chrisb

Member
Joined 2002
Bemopti123 said:
SS amps usually have too much damping for things such as Sfullrange drivers on horns. I say try a tubed amp and see whether that missing bass returns. I myself have a 208Sigma based horns that had not given me too much pleasure until I put a SET amp to drive it.

I did read somewhere in the LansingHeritageSite that a member had decided to put a component in the amp end (SS) when driving vintage (1950s-60s) JBL amps due to what I have had described.
Click to expand...


Since you're already thinking about changing the amp, I second the vote on trying at least a couple of tube amps with almost any Fostex, and most particularly a Sigmas in a BLH before confusing things by adding woofer(s) & additional amps - get the "wide-range" part of the system dialed in first. If you're game to try a DIY/Kit, something like Decware (EL84 "family" ), Bottlehead Stereomour ( 2A3 / 45 DHT)or Tubelab Simple SE - much wider range of output types optional.

Decware:
Amp kits

Bottlehead:
Stereomour Stereo Single Ended 2A3/45 Integrated Amplifier Kit

Tubelab:
Simple SE
 
Last edited:
J

jaylgordon

Member
Joined 2008
Thanks for the tips about damping, and the advice about tube amps. When I built the Fostex speakers, I'd planned to build a 2A3 amp, too, but I never found the time to do it. I was sort of hoping the T-amp (based on the famed, or maybe fabled, Tripath 2024 chip) would deliver the tube-like sound at a rock-bottom price (I've got a family now, so it's harder to justify shelling out $750 for a tube amp kit, appealing as it may be otherwise). The T-amp wouldn't necessarily address the damping issue, though.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Top Bottom