How to cut a Fonken angle?

[brucegseidner]

One day I am going to have the capacity or the patience to find threads I know I have read. But in the meantime, please remind me, how are people cutting the outside front corner angled edges for the Fonken cabinets.

Rather what is the angle?

Then there is the choice of cranking the blade or building a sled. I just can't find it and want to experiment a bit before committing the actual Fonken167 cabinets to the table.

Thanking all in advance.

Bruce

[VictoriaGuy]

Bruce-
I just cut mine on the table saw, using the standard fence, as I recall.
It needed a bit of cleanup with a sharp hand plane before veneering, but that could be avoided with a good table saw blade and some luck.
A flat sanding block (paper stuck to flat block)would substitute for the hand plane.
John

[vinylkid58]

Originally Posted by brucegseidner

Rather what is the angle?

45 degrees.

jeff

[brucegseidner]

Excellent, that is what it looks like but I wanted to be sure.

The wood spacer bars in the vent space are spec'd as non-ply.

I had the thought of using Ash boards and also putting a couple inches of Ash planed down to 3/4" to edge/frame the plywood carcass of the Fonken167.

Biscuits are overkill and I would just glue up the Ash to the plywood prior to assembly. It might also be fun to add a .25 strip of something else for a contrast in the middle of the Ash during the glue up. Then a 45degree cut would expose only the Ash.

Although, I would be guilty of making a Fonken Ash of myself, it might be nothing new. Well, the cabinet. Me, I fear it is my nature.

[vinylkid58]

Originally Posted by brucegseidner

Excellent, that is what it looks like but I wanted to be sure.

You might want to PM Dave to be 100% sure, as I don't have the plans. I just noticed that most of the box plans don't have an angle dimension for the front bevel.

jeff

[planet10]

It is 45 degrees

dave

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by brucegseidner

Excellent, that is what it looks like but I wanted to be sure.

The wood spacer bars in the vent space are spec'd as non-ply.

I had the thought of using Ash boards and also putting a couple inches of Ash planed down to 3/4" to edge/frame the plywood carcass of the Fonken167.

Biscuits are overkill and I would just glue up the Ash to the plywood prior to assembly. It might also be fun to add a .25 strip of something else for a contrast in the middle of the Ash during the glue up. Then a 45degree cut would expose only the Ash.

Although, I would be guilty of making a Fonken Ash of myself, it might be nothing new. Well, the cabinet. Me, I fear it is my nature.

very cute Bruce - and when you're done, just enjoy them and pay attention to the Fonken critics

man, but we can get a lot of mileage out of those 6 letters


BTW, don't forget to apply whatever finishing materials you plan on using in the port slots before you apply the second layer of ply. I use a jig and spacers to glue the port divider strip to outside panel first, then mask off the remaining glue surface area on strips and inside panel before applying finish (generally either black paint, stain to match that of veneer, or clear top coat/ lacquer) Those slots are pretty hard to get into later, particularly if you want a darker colour.

[repeddler]

I think Chris had posted earlier it helps to make the cuts in a couple of passes. I did 3 cuts to get a little off each time rather than take the whole corner off in one shot.

Been listening to mine for a month, no finish as of yet. I did not put any stain or finish in port slots so likely will go with a clear.

[Lindsay.E]

When I built my Fonkens I cut the 45 degree chamfer with a hand saw.
I marked the cut with a pencil and cut to the side of the line so the line stayed on the cabinet then sand down until the line is gone.
I got good results using this method, it just takes a little time and patience.

Cheers

Lindsay.