The car door in question is a '96 Mazda Miata. So it's a convertible and an under damped sportscar therefore ultimate SQ can be compromised for higher spl and limited mounting options. I have room for a full range up to ~4" and a woofer up to 8". It would be nice if the woofer provided enough bass that an additional sub wasn't necessary or a much smaller one. Poly woofers over paper would be a plus in this automotive environment too.
I may be able to make more of an enclosure than just what the door provides but drivers that would work well in a simple "door" enclosure would be a good option. I am prepared to modify the doors if necessary. I have a pair of TangBand W4-1320 that I had other plans for but could use if are a good option. I'll bi-amp and actively crossover or PLLXO.
I may be able to make more of an enclosure than just what the door provides but drivers that would work well in a simple "door" enclosure would be a good option. I am prepared to modify the doors if necessary. I have a pair of TangBand W4-1320 that I had other plans for but could use if are a good option. I'll bi-amp and actively crossover or PLLXO.
At least with a midrange you only need a fairly small enclosure and can put that in the door moisture tight with the front of the cone only exposed to the interior. Putting woofers in the door pretty much means you need all the volume you can get and by the time you're there it really isn't sealed anyway unless you remove the window regulator mech and permanently seal it shut. Driving high power midbass in a door automatically signs you up for totally overhauling the door for strength and damping, all the while handling the inevitable rainwater leakage past the window, the reason there are drain holes in the bottom of the door. Not even the manufacturers get the water thing right, as can be seen in the potato chip shaped paper cones in most cars over 10 years old. Never hearing a plastic cone I liked I'd possibly go for aluminum. If the midbass upper turnover point were low enough you could possibly run the baskets inboard, and nothing would be exposed to the door innards except some anodized aluminum and probably a rubber surround. I was looking at the PE 7 and 8" alu cones once for this application.
Last edited:
I'll have to take a better look at the door and see to what extent I can section things off to protect the drivers and provide enclosure volume. If I can, this will mean no need for an additional sub in the trunk or on the package tray and that is very attractive to me. This won't be a quiet car since it is a convertible sports car with priorities elsewhere. There will be many compromises.
Dave, the TB W4-1320 has a phase plug and I'm aware of it's vulnerability to dust and grit. Hopefully I'll figure out a way to protect them adequately.
Dave, the TB W4-1320 has a phase plug and I'm aware of it's vulnerability to dust and grit. Hopefully I'll figure out a way to protect them adequately.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.