A word of warning.
We discovered (the painful way) that recent batches of IKEA bowls have a different shape to those in post #20. It appears that they no longer are concentric spheres with a uniform wall thickness, but are thinner at the top (equator) than the the bottom (North Pole). This should be taken into account when making the joining ring. Best is to measure actual dimensions of the bowls you have on hand.
Patrick
We discovered (the painful way) that recent batches of IKEA bowls have a different shape to those in post #20. It appears that they no longer are concentric spheres with a uniform wall thickness, but are thinner at the top (equator) than the the bottom (North Pole). This should be taken into account when making the joining ring. Best is to measure actual dimensions of the bowls you have on hand.
Patrick
Hi polop
stuffing?
I havn't remembered the whole thread but is stuffing necessary? If you're going vented then ignore the following...but I got terrific results from sealed
I certainly didn't need stuffing....bit of a write up here with some commentary.
audio-talk :: View topic - martians
...summary of my experience was:
1. choose the bowls carefully, no two are alike
2. plane the bowl edges flat(best on a 12" table plane)
3. choose the driver/alignment to match the volume
I found no need for stuffing or anything to defeat resonance as I didn't suffer from it...ymmv
Ed
stuffing?
I havn't remembered the whole thread but is stuffing necessary? If you're going vented then ignore the following...but I got terrific results from sealed
I certainly didn't need stuffing....bit of a write up here with some commentary.
audio-talk :: View topic - martians
...summary of my experience was:
1. choose the bowls carefully, no two are alike
2. plane the bowl edges flat(best on a 12" table plane)
3. choose the driver/alignment to match the volume
I found no need for stuffing or anything to defeat resonance as I didn't suffer from it...ymmv
Ed
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If you're planning to use the middle size of the blanda bowl (20cm) you'll be needing the connecting ring. Middle size bowls aren't half spheres (I don't know if the large one is either). If you don't use connecting ring, you end up having a speaker that has flying saucer like shape.
Spot on.
Missing 20mm to become a true sphere (at least the ones I bought a year ago).
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...-speakers-first-build-done-5.html#post2277774
Patrick
Missing 20mm to become a true sphere (at least the ones I bought a year ago).
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...-speakers-first-build-done-5.html#post2277774
Patrick
Hello there all. I have built the ikea bowl speakers (see below). They sound very nice indeed (aswell as looking very sexy compared to normal box designs).
now I am willing to look into adding some strength to the bottom end. but being in a student room, I am looking at subwoofers from an incredibly reserved way (i.e. i would only be interested in low power compact subwoofers)
The route that I am looking to take at the moment is to use a PA type driver, and maybe a subwoofer amplifier from a car (as i have a high power 12v supply avaliable and it would keep costs down.) Idealy i would like to avoid car amplifiers as i am so happy with my amp 6 from 41hz.com for the mains. What is the standard way round adding the channels together and cutting the high frequencies before inputting into a diy-type amplifier.
How much difference will choice of amplifiers make to the quality of the music? as far as i am aware it is less of a problem at low powers and low frequencies.
so hypothetical system as it stands:
-tangband / ikea bowl speakers driven by amp 6 (finished already)
-8 inch PA speaker (undecided)
-sealed enclosure (perhaps the larger ikea bowls ?)
-driven by a low power car amplifier (for the low cut and bridgeing ability)
any suggestions to improve that, driver suggestions, amp suggestions, enclosure suggestions.
now I am willing to look into adding some strength to the bottom end. but being in a student room, I am looking at subwoofers from an incredibly reserved way (i.e. i would only be interested in low power compact subwoofers)
The route that I am looking to take at the moment is to use a PA type driver, and maybe a subwoofer amplifier from a car (as i have a high power 12v supply avaliable and it would keep costs down.) Idealy i would like to avoid car amplifiers as i am so happy with my amp 6 from 41hz.com for the mains. What is the standard way round adding the channels together and cutting the high frequencies before inputting into a diy-type amplifier.
How much difference will choice of amplifiers make to the quality of the music? as far as i am aware it is less of a problem at low powers and low frequencies.
so hypothetical system as it stands:
-tangband / ikea bowl speakers driven by amp 6 (finished already)
-8 inch PA speaker (undecided)
-sealed enclosure (perhaps the larger ikea bowls ?)
-driven by a low power car amplifier (for the low cut and bridgeing ability)
any suggestions to improve that, driver suggestions, amp suggestions, enclosure suggestions.
Attachments
I'm as you know from the other thread at uni and have my Wharfedale sw150 there. If you have it on a nice volume with it turned down you can get away with it, but if you have lots of people round and it all gets turned up then you'll have the noise police round. Theres my experience with subs in student accommodation.
Joe
Joe
Markaudio CHR-70s in medium sized ikea bowls accompanied with Focal 6k4411 stereo MLTL "subs". Xover is around 100hz.
Sound quite sweet, but there is lots of tinkering left with subs. Subs are omnidirectional (bowls are diffusors) and that creates some problems with stereo image. Still, doing and tinkering with them is great fun
Sound quite sweet, but there is lots of tinkering left with subs. Subs are omnidirectional (bowls are diffusors) and that creates some problems with stereo image. Still, doing and tinkering with them is great fun
Attachments
Your spot on right. Lows are omnidirectional but as you said xover isnt steep enough to cut out all the mids. Some omnidirectivity in mids definitely increases the spatial imaging of speakers. Downside is that highs have slightly different character and that is the problem. So fiddling with these will continue until I get it right
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