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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lake Superior
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Doing these up in Baltic Birch. Had a furniture maker do the rips on his industrial table saw and they came out perfect. Been using my Delta compound sliding miter saw with a nice 80 tooth blade for the cross cuts.
Bought some of those $4 clamps at harbor Freight - boy what a life saver. Last edited by motosapien; 21st October 2010 at 11:34 PM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lake Superior
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Some thoughts thus far:
Had considered a plate joiner (biscuits) for joint integrity but this has proven to be unnecessary - yellow carpenter's glue and clamps make a rock solid joint. Check your saws for square and adjust if needed. Consider having your long rips done by a woodworking pro. All the internal pieces on this build except for the main brace are 6" wide and it really helps if they are all that width. I started by gluing the top and bottom to the side panel. Get it flush and square and when you go to gluing on the back it will fall into alignment easily. Driver cutouts - I got fancy and measured the rim on the CSS EL 70 driver and found it less than a 1/4" thick so I adjusted the depth on my first cut. However, I forgot about the gasket and had to free hand the extra depth with my router. Turned out fine. Just do them 1/4" from the git go. Last edited by motosapien; 22nd October 2010 at 12:17 PM. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: New York
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Those are shaping up nicely! Great job! So great to have found a DIY community that's enabled all of us to build and enjoy our music in ways unimaginable just a few years ago. The development of cabinets and the new drivers is amazing! I remember the days of saying "for $500 i can build a pair of speakers that sound like a $1,000 pair in the store"... I think we could all agree that what's being built by so many of us is so much better than anything for $1,000! Keep us posted on your progress.
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#4 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Looks good. Keep on posting...
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: UK
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Nice build and lovely pics...just watch out for that carpet
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lake Superior
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lake Superior
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Made a good deal more progress today. Yes, the internet is a marvelous resource for hobbyists. I maintain my motorcycles largely because of online knowledge bases.
More musings on the Coniston^2's........... You can make identical parts for both speakers EXCEPT for the side baffles with the drivers in them - they need to be mirror images. Dope it out before you cut the driver holes. This Baltic Birch ply is good stuff. The 5' x 5' sheets are a hand full but it's very stable and responds well to precision cutting. In that respect it is similar to the "other" popular speaker building material. It glues well too. I'm pretty lucky with my "farm girl truck drivin wife" in that she let's me parkerize gun parts on the stove, re-jet carbs on the kitchen table and glue speaker cabinets up in the living room. Last edited by motosapien; 23rd October 2010 at 01:03 AM. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lake Superior
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A few more pics...
Sub assemblies glued in for front baffle. Today I'll finish the holey braces. Layed the four smaller ones out and made the holes before cutting them into individual peices - makes it easier to hold the work. Was debating what to use for dampening material but decided yesterday to go with the felt. Have to order it from CSS. With all the work I've put in and the difficulty of trying to stuff through the driver cutouts, it makes a lot of sense to just follow the plan. Last edited by motosapien; 23rd October 2010 at 01:17 PM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lake Superior
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Used the router for the 4" holes and a 1-1/2" spade bit for the rest. Put a piece of scrap on the bottom and knelt on it while the bit "chattered" it's way through. Made the lines and extra 1/4" wide to allow for the "kerf" and a trim to fit with the main brace. Last edited by motosapien; 23rd October 2010 at 02:40 PM. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lake Superior
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Quote:
Perhaps the most valuable aspect of forums like this is that they give people the inspiration and confidence to try. That is a very wonderful thing! |
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