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Old 9th November 2010, 02:40 PM   #31
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Nice work! How big is that room you are listening to them in?
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Old 9th November 2010, 06:25 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Digeridoo View Post
Nice work! How big is that room you are listening to them in?
About 4 meters by 7 meters. I listen from about 4 meters away.
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Old 7th May 2011, 09:58 PM   #33
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I've added a small bit of electronic wizardry to the Conistons courtesy of member John Bsuch. I mentioned to him that I wanted to attenuate the highs just a bit and he suggested the following: You can run an inductor and a resistor in parallel and cut the db of the upper end. I used an 0.85 low dcr inductor and a 10 watt 6 ohm resistor to accomplish this. I've got this wired up on the positive lead outside the cabinets now and the effect is pleasing. You are essentially raising the mids and lows in relation to the highs above about 4k. The speakers really do the disappearing act with this simple mod and that tells me the highs really did need attenuating.

There is a big difference in the highs between FM radio and other sources. You really don't need this mod for the FM but it works magic on cd's. It is also adjustable by varying the value of the resistor. I will try some lower resistance before I settle on a final value. And I'll make it switchable for FM listening and certain music that does not need the adjustment.
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Old 9th May 2011, 02:11 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Godzilla View Post
Those are shaping up nicely! Great job! So great to have found a DIY community that's enabled all of us to build and enjoy our music in ways unimaginable just a few years ago. The development of cabinets and the new drivers is amazing! I remember the days of saying "for $500 i can build a pair of speakers that sound like a $1,000 pair in the store"... I think we could all agree that what's being built by so many of us is so much better than anything for $1,000! Keep us posted on your progress.
I have not yet found a speaker for $250 that beats the sound of my Mar-Kel70. I guess i wont find any unless i build them myself.

Yes, i admit it's not the best looking speakers. But who cares. Add another $20-$30 and you got some nice paint or veneer on them
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Old 23rd May 2011, 09:11 PM   #35
zman01 is online now zman01  Bangladesh
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Default This will help me build Lotus^2

Motosapien, Very informative and enjoyable thread.

I am planning to build Lotus^2. Every now and then I see rave reviews about Sachiko (and now good words about Coniston ), and I get really curious about double mouth horn sound. Sachiko is too big for me, and I would also have to buy new drivers. I was thinking of sending Scott a mail on becoming a beta tester for Victor, but then stumbled across Lotus...the dimensions are perfect for the space I have in mind and definitely has good WAF .

Got the plywood today. If evrything is right I might go for cutting on Friday.

Anyone can suggest alternatives for damping material for the compression chamber? Recycled denim is defintely not available here, wool felt - I will have to see... Fibre glass wool and Jute material - both can be found.

-Zia
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Old 24th May 2011, 10:33 AM   #36
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Zia,

I've read that fiberglass ceiling tiles work well for dampening the box. They are about 2 cm thick and can be cut to shape and glued to the insides of the box with carpenters glue. Leave it off the last side because it would have made gluing that last side on problematic. Do use the braces and lightly shim to the driver's backs. You will be pleased with the room filling sound and detail at moderate volumes.
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Old 24th May 2011, 12:10 PM   #37
zman01 is online now zman01  Bangladesh
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Originally Posted by motosapien View Post
You will be pleased with the room filling sound and detail at moderate volumes.
This is a great point you make - these are characteristics I greatly appreciate and they make listening effortless and enjoyable.

-Zia
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Old 24th May 2011, 12:33 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motosapien View Post
Zia,

I've read that fiberglass ceiling tiles work well for dampening the box. They are about 2 cm thick and can be cut to shape and glued to the insides of the box with carpenters glue. Leave it off the last side because it would have made gluing that last side on problematic. Do use the braces and lightly shim to the driver's backs. You will be pleased with the room filling sound and detail at moderate volumes.
+1 I have been using Armstrong #420 ceiling tiles to line my cabinets for years. I usually line all walls. I then require little or no stuffing.

The #420 is only available in cases of 12, which is a little much for most DIY'ers. The #420 is 5/8" thick. THIS
is 1" thick and available in single 2'x4' panels.

Bob
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Old 24th May 2011, 12:52 PM   #39
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+2. Except for highly damped TLs, I have almost completely shifted toward lining / lagging cabinets rather than stuffing them.
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Old 24th May 2011, 12:54 PM   #40
zman01 is online now zman01  Bangladesh
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Thanks Motosapien and Bob. Will look into this.
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