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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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For my first full-range speaker project, I have purchased a pair of Tang Band W8-1808 drivers, and have settled upon a simple bass reflex box as the cabinet.
I would appreciate hearing from others who have used this driver as to whether the use of a Zobel network is necessary. I would prefer not to use one, but am open to suggestions from those who have achieved better results with a Zobel than without. Please relate the network component values that worked for you, and if you prefer the driver without a Zobel, I would appreciate hearing that, too. I am building a custom preamp with switchable baffle step equalization built in, so I will not apply BSC to the driver itself. Thanks to all who respond. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Hot Spring Village AR
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The primary purpose of a zobel is to flatten the high frequency end of the impedance curve so that the driver will work correctly with a cross over network. If the 1808 is anything like the 1772, you will have no need for a tweeter, and most folks let the full-ranger run wide open anyway.
On a single-driver speaker, a zobel is used to control the rising response of the driver, if any. In essence, the zobel is simply a contour filter and the component values won't necessarily be textbook values. I find a zobel mandatory on Fostex 166/206 but not on the 167/207 (now a mute point). You will simply have to listen to your speakers to decide if you need to tame the top end or not. I will put a contour filter on a speaker in a heartbeat. I find that a balanced response far outweighs any deleterious effects of the passive components. However, I believe that the best approach is to do the contour shaping digitally or at least at line level as you have done with our BSC filter. None of my personal speakers have any passive components in the boxes. Bob |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Rhön (Germany)
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Quote:
when I see sometimes 3 notch filters in series with the FR speaker, Same feeling I have when "nothing is done", which seems to be preferred in the US. Bobs approach makes sense Joe |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: New York
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IMO the 1808 is somewhat hot but i listen to it without any filters and enjoy it firing straight ahead into my listening room. They are not perfect but they are very good filling my room with broad strokes, a big sound stage and stable imaging.
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Hot Spring Village AR
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Quote:
Bob |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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A nearby enthusiast has a pair of these drivers in a 40L ported cabinet, with BSC. It was definitely needed. Without it, the sound was too forward, and sounded very lean. Adding the BSC brought the bass back in line, with a more balanced listen overall.
These are extremely good drivers.
__________________
"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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1808s or 1772s? If it's Colin's speakers we're discussing, it's the latter, which is a different driver. Q on the 1772 is about 40% lower, while Vas & B*L are both rather higher than the 1808.
Last edited by Scottmoose; 12th September 2010 at 02:20 PM. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Hot Spring Village AR
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Quote:
Bob |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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Ah-ha! Good point.
I always think it's the 1808, but now you've mentioned it, I'm sure Colin's are 1772s, rendering my previous post irrelevant. Have a nice day.
__________________
"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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Quote:
I am still toying with the idea of an open baffle with a couple of Emi Alpha 15"ers, but they're just so BIG, and I'm not sure they're going to sound that much better than sealed boxes on top of my Klipschs. |
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