I currently own a pair of Dynaudio MC15 speakers, and I love the plug and play convenience of active speakers.
If I were to have a go myself, as a newbie what components would you advise i start with.
Also is the 'one cone' solution of a fullrange speaker the best way to go, no crossovers etc?
If I were to have a go myself, as a newbie what components would you advise i start with.
Also is the 'one cone' solution of a fullrange speaker the best way to go, no crossovers etc?
The single-driver vs multi-way debate has raged for some time.
Generally, the advantages of a single full ranger are:
- crossover-less design - this means the design is a lot simpler.
- mid-range magic - voices, acoustic guitars etc, will sound better on a single FR than a multi-way of the same price, partly down to the fact that it's difficult to integrate tweeters with midbasses properly.
For multi-ways, you get:
- greater bandwidth (lower bass, higher highs)
- greater dynamics available - being able to use big woofers means you can push a lot more air around
Take your pick.
Generally, the advantages of a single full ranger are:
- crossover-less design - this means the design is a lot simpler.
- mid-range magic - voices, acoustic guitars etc, will sound better on a single FR than a multi-way of the same price, partly down to the fact that it's difficult to integrate tweeters with midbasses properly.
For multi-ways, you get:
- greater bandwidth (lower bass, higher highs)
- greater dynamics available - being able to use big woofers means you can push a lot more air around
Take your pick.
some loose change of my own;
1) there is no perfect, or " best" audio component - period
2) this is the full range forum, which generally that means you can assume a "bias" towards single or small numbers of drivers per channel, running "full bandwidth"
3) we "FR" aficionados arrive at this particular point in the journey to audio "satori" from many different directions - those of us who hang about for any length of time generally have at least passing familiarity with the strengths /weakness of a wide range of speaker technologies and design approaches, and each will have our own reasons for making the compromises implied by a short objective check list
4) y'all can have too much fun with single driver systems, at pretty much any type of budget - definitely starting at prices far lower than that of the MC15 (but of course in the case of a decent active system a fair portion of the cost is related to the amp(s) )
5) couldn't resist this one: moving more air around guarantees nothing - witness Boze901 and a Phase Linear 700
1) there is no perfect, or " best" audio component - period
2) this is the full range forum, which generally that means you can assume a "bias" towards single or small numbers of drivers per channel, running "full bandwidth"
3) we "FR" aficionados arrive at this particular point in the journey to audio "satori" from many different directions - those of us who hang about for any length of time generally have at least passing familiarity with the strengths /weakness of a wide range of speaker technologies and design approaches, and each will have our own reasons for making the compromises implied by a short objective check list
4) y'all can have too much fun with single driver systems, at pretty much any type of budget - definitely starting at prices far lower than that of the MC15 (but of course in the case of a decent active system a fair portion of the cost is related to the amp(s) )
5) couldn't resist this one: moving more air around guarantees nothing - witness Boze901 and a Phase Linear 700
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For a newbie to FR you might consider a decent inexpensive taste to start... Mark Audio CHR70 or CSS EL70. Decent performance, very low cost. Good enuff to get a taste of what a FR does.
Do keep in mind that the deficiences oft seen in FR (wide bands), dynamics and punch you in the chest, can be greatly ameriolated with active woofer(s) -- an XO low enuff that they become much less evil than when used up higher.
dave
Do keep in mind that the deficiences oft seen in FR (wide bands), dynamics and punch you in the chest, can be greatly ameriolated with active woofer(s) -- an XO low enuff that they become much less evil than when used up higher.
dave
any particular reason why you're interested in a "T-line" ?( as Scott has oft said - a highly over / mis-used nomenclature)
FWIW, my first attempt at a DIY build was a "sort-of" Transmission Line
Transmission Line Speakers
as much fun and learning opportunity this project provided, the most profound effect was falling into the rabbit hole of DIY audio in general - over a decade of just too much fun (and far less money than the addiction used to cost) - and my wife certainly appreciates the spare time it affords her
the Dalines are long since retired and during the past decade have been replaced by an seemingly endless stream of mostly full-range systems
for a newbie wanting to dip their toe in the shallow end of the pool, a simple bookshelf size box with 4-5" full range driver can easily cost less than $150, including wood
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what Chris said.
another thread to look at, based on inexpensive drivers: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/170014-fountek-fr88-ex-enclosure.html
I guess i like the plug and play simplicity of my Dynaudio's. As for why i wnat to do it, why not.
Again as for transmission line, again why not. i've owned many ported speakers in my time, the only TL speakers that i knew about were the TDL speakers of the 80 and 90's when i was a lad reading what-hifi ... as you do.
of course in the ususal habit of the audiophile world, I'm looking to upgarde. PMC were one of those names that was at the back of my mind, and I'm interested in tyring a T-Line design of my own.
I know I'll have to buy
1) drivers
2) one small amp per driver
3) materials
anything else i'm missing on my shopping list?
I want to build speakers similar to my MC15's. RCA cable input instead of XLR inputs. smallish cabinate no bigger than my current Dyn's.
Again as for transmission line, again why not. i've owned many ported speakers in my time, the only TL speakers that i knew about were the TDL speakers of the 80 and 90's when i was a lad reading what-hifi ... as you do.
of course in the ususal habit of the audiophile world, I'm looking to upgarde. PMC were one of those names that was at the back of my mind, and I'm interested in tyring a T-Line design of my own.
I know I'll have to buy
1) drivers
2) one small amp per driver
3) materials
anything else i'm missing on my shopping list?
I want to build speakers similar to my MC15's. RCA cable input instead of XLR inputs. smallish cabinate no bigger than my current Dyn's.
'Small' and 'transmission line' is a bit of an oxymoron to be honest. Yes, you can find desktop TL designs, & some can be very good. However, remember that they will not necessarily concur with the listening impressions you'll have read in the magazines back in the '70s & '80s about a large floorstanding 3-way TDL, for fairly obvious reasons. 
Of course, the first question to ask is: what are you hoping to achieve? What are you trying to get that the Dynaudios do not do? Dynaudios are fine speakers of their type, so you are likely trying to get something else, but what that is, at present, you haven't told us.
One point: a 1-way loudspeaker is by definition 'active.' There are no electrical XOs, unless you add supporting drivers, so there is no real need to build amplifiers into the cabinet. You can, but it's intrinsically simpler to have an external amp & run a pair of speaker wires to it. One less mains cable for a start.
Of course, the first question to ask is: what are you hoping to achieve? What are you trying to get that the Dynaudios do not do? Dynaudios are fine speakers of their type, so you are likely trying to get something else, but what that is, at present, you haven't told us.
One point: a 1-way loudspeaker is by definition 'active.' There are no electrical XOs, unless you add supporting drivers, so there is no real need to build amplifiers into the cabinet. You can, but it's intrinsically simpler to have an external amp & run a pair of speaker wires to it. One less mains cable for a start.
Scott has raised several excellent points, most notably that regarding the direct "aktiv" nature of amp(s) for full range (i.e. "single driver") speaker systems (I can hear Ivor's trademark lawyers knocking at the door already - how does he do that? )-
FWIW, I think the chances are that once you embark on the very addictive hobby of speaker building, you'll find it's like Malt Vinegar and Sea Salt potato chips - one will simply not be enough, and external amp(s) will provide much more flexibility
)- FWIW, I think the chances are that once you embark on the very addictive hobby of speaker building, you'll find it's like Malt Vinegar and Sea Salt potato chips - one will simply not be enough, and external amp(s) will provide much more flexibility
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I think I've seen some exploited view of them in a recent thread talking about replacing Kef drivers.Did they have a trapezoidal front baffle ? What the OP means for small size cabinet is
something that can be used as a table ,as a chair
If I were to build a TL ,since I'm bewitched by round like plastic molds forms ,I
would not choose the classic 3 dimensions box.
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One of these MCM Audio Select 5'' Aluminum Cone Woofer | 55-1870 (551870) | MCM Audio Select
in a BiB Bigger Is Better - BIB makes a pretty decent FR spaeker.
I added a small piezo tweeter to the one I built and am pretty impressed. If you want, I can send you the dimensions of mine. It was a very simple build.
Mike
Oops- I didn't catch the size you're looking for. Well, I'll leave this just in case.
in a BiB Bigger Is Better - BIB makes a pretty decent FR spaeker.
I added a small piezo tweeter to the one I built and am pretty impressed. If you want, I can send you the dimensions of mine. It was a very simple build.
Mike
Oops- I didn't catch the size you're looking for. Well, I'll leave this just in case.
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