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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
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Hello , i am new around here and would like to start my first diy project. I have chosen curvy changs ( also would like to know what swoopy changs are , saw something around here about them but couldn't find much info, seemed interesting that someone said they go down to 30hz ) but i haven't made up my mind about what speakers to put in the cabs. I am looking atm at fostex fe207e and fostex fe206en. I am from romania and cannot find pioneer b20 around here , plus i would like to try a single speaker design.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Per the frugal horn spawn site, the FE207e is what it is designed to work with. Other drivers probably won't give the desired response without design changes.
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Seattle,Wash.
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Quote:
Best Regards, TerryO
__________________
"If you have to ask why, then you're probably on the right track." quote from Terry Olson's DIYaudio Forum application |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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I have a pair of FE207E if you really need them.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
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Thanks alot for the replies. I have found the fe207 around here and even though you would probably give me a better price , the delivery would be alot as well.
I would also like to know if curvy chang is worth it over g chang and what would be the advantages , if any ? I was set on curvy because of looks but it would be alot easier the build the normal ones. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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To be honest, the Curvy Chang might be a difficult first project. If you have previous woodworking experience, then I am sure you would be fine. If this is your first project, you might want to try something simpler first since it can be difficult to make things this large LOOK good (I am sure you could make a working enclosure).
I think that the advantage of this one is that it will provide a more cylindrical wave-front. This has some frequency response advantages, and you can get a little more bass extension since it can use the ceiling & floor to help transmit the bass. I could be wrong though, so someone should correct me if I am. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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The curved front cabinet provides something nearer to a point source as it focuses the radiation. Flat front = closer to an MTM (albeit a large one) radiation pattern.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
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Thanks for the replies. I will be ordering pre-cut panels so i will only have to glue / mount them together. What material do you recommend ? Is PAL worth it over MDF ? Is wood worth it over the two ?
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#9 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Good multi-ply is highly recommended.
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Seattle,Wash.
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It's also a *lot* nicer to work with and is just better in every way, even without the sonic implications. If you propose to spend your time and money on a project such as this, the cost difference is quite minimal in overall terms.
Best Regards, TerryO
__________________
"If you have to ask why, then you're probably on the right track." quote from Terry Olson's DIYaudio Forum application |
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