Thanks, Dave. I was wondering why the Stealth wasn't talked about as much these days seeing as it was such a cool concept. I didn't realize it was dependent on a particular driver that was no longer made. I will write to CSS.
Chris, when you write multiples, you mean doubling up the 4inch peerless? Do they need to be crossed over or just wired together? Is there a thread on this? It might be beyond my current skill set. I have zero experience with building crossovers as of yet.
Also, I just want to say that you guys did a great job with the FH3. I just got mine back up and running after being without them for a little over 2 years due to moving around and losing my power amp. It's like listening for the first time again. I really missed them. Thanks again.
Chris, when you write multiples, you mean doubling up the 4inch peerless? Do they need to be crossed over or just wired together? Is there a thread on this? It might be beyond my current skill set. I have zero experience with building crossovers as of yet.
Also, I just want to say that you guys did a great job with the FH3. I just got mine back up and running after being without them for a little over 2 years due to moving around and losing my power amp. It's like listening for the first time again. I really missed them. Thanks again.
Regarding multiples - the several builds in which we've used multiples (either 2 or 4 per side), they'd have been wired in parallel or series/parallel to keep net impedance within safe operating range of amps, and our general approach was to use passive line level XO, and bi-amp, so yes they'd be low passed. IIRC, the particular driver we used was the Peerless 830870, and in all cases I can remember, the enclosures were vented - either fairly compact MLTL, or the rather more cumbersome "Facets". - Word to the wise - when Dave says, "I've got this idea for an enclosure, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to draw it" be wary of taking the challenge of building a pair
Attachments
Last edited:
So I could just put 2 per side (8 total. it's a small room) and vent the enclosure at the bottom of each side and leave the backs unvented. Sounds like it might be worth looking into, and I want to learn about crossovers at some point anyway.
Thanks.
My "per side" reference above should have read "per channel"- in the case of the Facets shown in above photo before being re-populated with drivers after Bernie's cladding of raw plywood boxes, you can see a total of 2 drivers per side of each enclosure, for a total of 8 in the stereo pair. Developed an amazing amount of LF for such a tiny driver. The front driver in this case was FF85WK.
The system was intended for biamping -crossed over somewhere in the 300Hz range, IIRC via PLLXO - although absolutely no reason why something like minidsp couldn't work as well - some might opine better? .
The system was intended for biamping -crossed over somewhere in the 300Hz range, IIRC via PLLXO - although absolutely no reason why something like minidsp couldn't work as well - some might opine better? .
Hang tough, i am working on plan updates. And actually checking what we built.
The plans have about 20 litres gross internal volume but are based on a 75° isoceles triangle, we may have built a 90° one. Turns out 90° has less volume than the same width smaller angle.
It is also the case that it has a height designed for the FH1.
dave
The facets are an ML-Voigt, under the uFonkenSET in an ML-TL.
The 830870 ML-TL is a little shorted than the FH3, and less cross-section volume than the 75° stealthWoofer i posted earlier. With only a slight volume increase you could use 4.
For that same slight size increase you could use 2 Silver Flute W14 ML-TL we use in Tysen V2. The line is close to the FH3 height but still a tad shorter. The big advantage is that the SF is less than ½ the price of the Peerless.
Both reach an estimated 35 Hz F10 almost as low as the single SDX7. The sealed SDX7 is more ameniable to EQ and will easily reach 25 with a small boost.
dave
The 830870 ML-TL is a little shorted than the FH3, and less cross-section volume than the 75° stealthWoofer i posted earlier. With only a slight volume increase you could use 4.
For that same slight size increase you could use 2 Silver Flute W14 ML-TL we use in Tysen V2. The line is close to the FH3 height but still a tad shorter. The big advantage is that the SF is less than ½ the price of the Peerless.
Both reach an estimated 35 Hz F10 almost as low as the single SDX7. The sealed SDX7 is more ameniable to EQ and will easily reach 25 with a small boost.
dave
fe206en
Hi everyone,
Long time since being on here, and a lot has happened, lost my house to Mainroads for a bypass road, boo, got divorced, mixed feelings about that one, moved into a new place, yah
I can finally setup as many bad *** speakers as I want, double Yah!
I am still wanting to build some big *** Frugel horns for my fe206en's.
Looks like the Sachiko spawn might be the go.
The plan I downloaded is dated 23-march-2007
1. Is this the latest version?
2. Where the heck can I get some hardwood Birch/void free plywood in Mackay, Queensland, as there is no hardware depo that caries category AB or AC?
3. The other option is to build them out of MDF and laminate, but would prefer plywood.
Cheers, S.
Hi everyone,
Long time since being on here, and a lot has happened, lost my house to Mainroads for a bypass road, boo, got divorced, mixed feelings about that one, moved into a new place, yah
I can finally setup as many bad *** speakers as I want, double Yah!
I am still wanting to build some big *** Frugel horns for my fe206en's.
Looks like the Sachiko spawn might be the go.
The plan I downloaded is dated 23-march-2007
1. Is this the latest version?
2. Where the heck can I get some hardwood Birch/void free plywood in Mackay, Queensland, as there is no hardware depo that caries category AB or AC?
3. The other option is to build them out of MDF and laminate, but would prefer plywood.
Cheers, S.
Superceded by Kirishima.
Even better is Vulcan.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Plywood availability seems to be a bit spotty in Oz. Hoop pine ply seems to be avialble in some places, and the bamboo ply distributor in Tasmania makes me jealous — the good stuff is heavy enuff that shipping may be more than the actual ply thou.
dave
Hi there. First time posting here. Already learned tons about the DIY full range world and the FH3 seems to be a great first project.
I already cut birch plywood of 15mm, but for the front plate I don't have 18mm birch yet. I do however have solid oak flooring (18mm) leftovers. But I was wondering if the grooves on the bottom could be a downside? Would that alter the sound much?
Thanks,
http://www.fineoakflooring.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/solid-oak-flooring-bottom.jpg
Matthijs
I already cut birch plywood of 15mm, but for the front plate I don't have 18mm birch yet. I do however have solid oak flooring (18mm) leftovers. But I was wondering if the grooves on the bottom could be a downside? Would that alter the sound much?
Thanks,
http://www.fineoakflooring.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/solid-oak-flooring-bottom.jpg
Matthijs
Adding a supraBaffle pushes the point that bafflestep occurs down in frequency — but to ensure a smooth transition it should have a trailing backside and edges that are not abrupt, something that makes it more teardrop shaped.
One has to be careful that the baffle isn’t so wide that it overlaps the gain region of the horn.
A suprabaffle can create more room for a larger driver — ie fitting drivers like the TB W5-1611 or Fostex FE138eSR. It also gives more clearance for the magnet vis—a-vi the central divider.
A removable supraBaffle — even a simple one no wider than the box — makes it much easier to try different drivers.
In practise i have not seen that many FH3 with suprabaffles.
dave
One has to be careful that the baffle isn’t so wide that it overlaps the gain region of the horn.
A suprabaffle can create more room for a larger driver — ie fitting drivers like the TB W5-1611 or Fostex FE138eSR. It also gives more clearance for the magnet vis—a-vi the central divider.
A removable supraBaffle — even a simple one no wider than the box — makes it much easier to try different drivers.
In practise i have not seen that many FH3 with suprabaffles.
dave
I've built my fair share of all three sizes of Frugel-Horns, and several other of Scott / Dave's designs for that matter, and the only ones used on the FH were "vestigial", to facilitate the experimental swapping of drivers.(seen below with "dead" Alpair 7 used for fitment test) As I tend to take an aesthetic approach, I find the elegance of their shape diminished by the addition of anything much larger than that.
As Dave implies, the LF gain of the rear mouth horn requires less BSC than, say a stand mounted milli-Fonken with the same driver.
As Dave implies, the LF gain of the rear mouth horn requires less BSC than, say a stand mounted milli-Fonken with the same driver.
Attachments
I have a question regarding room treatment with FH3's.
Are any of you using broadband absorbers in your listening room to tighten the bass or at least even out HF response? If so, how do you deal with corners? Since the FH's are best corner loaded treating the corners has been difficult. If I straddle 2x4 absorbers across the corners, I can't get the speakers close enough to corners and lose most of the bass.
Should I just mount them on the opposing walls and not worry about the corners behind the speakers or is there a trick that I'm missing.
I know the FH's don't go low enough to create really problematic standing bass waves, but my room is small enough (and barely rectangular) that I can't ignore low end treatment completely.
Thanks.
Are any of you using broadband absorbers in your listening room to tighten the bass or at least even out HF response? If so, how do you deal with corners? Since the FH's are best corner loaded treating the corners has been difficult. If I straddle 2x4 absorbers across the corners, I can't get the speakers close enough to corners and lose most of the bass.
Should I just mount them on the opposing walls and not worry about the corners behind the speakers or is there a trick that I'm missing.
I know the FH's don't go low enough to create really problematic standing bass waves, but my room is small enough (and barely rectangular) that I can't ignore low end treatment completely.
Thanks.