Thanks, kind of figured as much regarding the cables and binding posts, can't be any worse than the cables draping over the back.
Next question is how to get stuffed?!!
The driver I have is the Alpair 7P's and I have stuffed the V with 30g and the front with 30g. Is it just the front I play with? And is there a rough guide as to what to expect with no stuff v's 30g stuffing? TIA
Next question is how to get stuffed?!!
The driver I have is the Alpair 7P's and I have stuffed the V with 30g and the front with 30g. Is it just the front I play with? And is there a rough guide as to what to expect with no stuff v's 30g stuffing? TIA
garym999, good to see the build coming along nicely. Look forward to the final product soon. 
Edit: Looks like you have sealed the cabs? Stuffing is likely to a be bit system and room dependent. Probably a good idea to play the speakers first and adjust accordingly. Driver break in already done?
Edit: Looks like you have sealed the cabs? Stuffing is likely to a be bit system and room dependent. Probably a good idea to play the speakers first and adjust accordingly. Driver break in already done?
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Without the extra fill below the driver, the Alpairs could sound a bit bass heavy - particularly if situated near a corner. The tricky part of course is that if not well broken in, the Alpairs will open up after between 100 -200 hrs of playing time, and you might need to adjust stuffing. Unlike with my couple of Pensil builds, I found that well teased out recommended amounts above and below the driver worked quite well.
So far the speakers have done the first 100hours on the bench with gentle classical music.
At first it looked like 30g was nowhere near enough but as you say with the fill teased out it's plenty.
I hope to have the cabs completed tomorrow, install the drivers ready for the first auditions and get some finished photos
At first it looked like 30g was nowhere near enough but as you say with the fill teased out it's plenty.
I hope to have the cabs completed tomorrow, install the drivers ready for the first auditions and get some finished photos
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So here they are...
First impressions, bass nice, tight and fast. Obviously does not go real low but I like what there is and that is from a bit of a bass junky. I'm finding the middle a little bit fatiguing, too bright.
So I'll be intrested how the next 100hours changes them. Also have the stuffing to play with.
Trouble is that these and the Modulus-86 amp I have just built is revealing the difficencies in my source, namly a squeezebox and a large MP3 collection. So step one to address this will be to re-rip the CDs as FLAC then I need to consider the player options
First impressions, bass nice, tight and fast. Obviously does not go real low but I like what there is and that is from a bit of a bass junky. I'm finding the middle a little bit fatiguing, too bright.
So I'll be intrested how the next 100hours changes them. Also have the stuffing to play with.
Trouble is that these and the Modulus-86 amp I have just built is revealing the difficencies in my source, namly a squeezebox and a large MP3 collection. So step one to address this will be to re-rip the CDs as FLAC then I need to consider the player options
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I found one issue and that was that I forgot to open up the rear of the baffle. I meant to do it but got lost in the build.
I thought it was going to be really hard to resolve given the cab is all glued up but it turned on not to be such a truma. I made a working surface out of scrap MDF and was able to cut away around the baffle by using my jigsaw set at 45deg. Not the best of finishes but sorted.
It has softened the sound a bit and brought out the bass more. But still a little bright for my tastes.
Before I get to hung up on this I do need to look at the source. I'm considering a Pi with one of the many DACs out there?
I thought it was going to be really hard to resolve given the cab is all glued up but it turned on not to be such a truma. I made a working surface out of scrap MDF and was able to cut away around the baffle by using my jigsaw set at 45deg. Not the best of finishes but sorted.
It has softened the sound a bit and brought out the bass more. But still a little bright for my tastes.
Before I get to hung up on this I do need to look at the source. I'm considering a Pi with one of the many DACs out there?
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First thing would be to try to isolate the "source" of the problem- do you have any way to either borrow another front-end/ amp, or play these in a buddy's system that you know hS no such issues?
Something that Linn used to drum into its dealers with nothing short of religious fervour was system budget hierarchy- source, then electronics, then speaker. No doubt this philosophy was not new then, but it certainly made sense, was actually demonstrable, and didn't do any harm to the implied incremental upgrade path, which they perfected to a fine art.
Something that Linn used to drum into its dealers with nothing short of religious fervour was system budget hierarchy- source, then electronics, then speaker. No doubt this philosophy was not new then, but it certainly made sense, was actually demonstrable, and didn't do any harm to the implied incremental upgrade path, which they perfected to a fine art.
Maybe try a Bafflle step compensation something Ike 1.5mh inductor and 3R resistor on your positive wire. That wil bring that bright rising top down quiet a bit and further fatten up the Bass.
I created a suspension wire using eyes and then placed the thinest layer of sheet with a few spots of super glue to hold it in place. That stops the fill from getting lost.
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garym999,
Nice work with the suspension, and I am assuming that the thin sheet is working for you. Personally I would be more comfortable with some thing with more holes in it vs the sheet you put in place. In your case, probably a few more criss-crosses of the string over the eyelets would have been enough also to keep the poly-fill in place (no sheet required).
Nice work with the suspension, and I am assuming that the thin sheet is working for you. Personally I would be more comfortable with some thing with more holes in it vs the sheet you put in place. In your case, probably a few more criss-crosses of the string over the eyelets would have been enough also to keep the poly-fill in place (no sheet required).
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Hi all.
I have finally found a place nearby that has CNC machines. It sort off a Maker's Studio open to members only. I have inquired, and will join as member. They say, I will need a DWG/CAD files or knowledge to turn the FH3 plans into machine readable. Not having knowledge in any of it, I reckon, I ask the forum if someone can share their files with me. I plan to use the Pluvia 7 drivers on 15mm plywood (I can also source 18mm ply if needed, based on the file???).
I have finally found a place nearby that has CNC machines. It sort off a Maker's Studio open to members only. I have inquired, and will join as member. They say, I will need a DWG/CAD files or knowledge to turn the FH3 plans into machine readable. Not having knowledge in any of it, I reckon, I ask the forum if someone can share their files with me. I plan to use the Pluvia 7 drivers on 15mm plywood (I can also source 18mm ply if needed, based on the file???).