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Old 7th November 2012, 05:39 AM   #741
Adam0 is offline Adam0  Belgium
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Mounting Gaskets, are they really needed, they make the rebate (for a flush finish very deep. Even with 18mm birch ply, you only have a thickness of 7.7mm to screw into if you use the gaskets, without them you win a couple of mm, I think every bit helps!
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Old 7th November 2012, 05:53 AM   #742
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CHR/CHP/EL70 have thin gaskets and they are required. Alpair 7.3 has an integral super-gasket (also stiffens the bezel) so it doesn't need a separate gasket.

dave
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Old 7th November 2012, 12:03 PM   #743
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My experience is that the A7 is marginal on 18mm material and the A10 is unacceptable. I use 24mm material for the baffle in either case.

Bob
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Old 7th November 2012, 03:46 PM   #744
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Brines View Post
My experience is that the A7 is marginal on 18mm material and the A10 is unacceptable. I use 24mm material for the baffle in either case.

Bob
So far we've had no major issues when using A7 sans the extra ring on the Murphy Multi-ply (slightly thicker at 18.65mm) but would definitely concur on the 10s and 12s - either 2 layers of 12mm, or 18+6, whatever I happen to have on hand.

Definitely use Mark's supplied gaskets, and to Dave's constant consternation, I really like the supplied screws as well. Take a look at the shanks, these are not standard tapered wood screws.
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Old 14th November 2012, 03:02 AM   #745
mor2bz is offline mor2bz  United States
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Default fe126en

I had the pleasure of listening to the frugalhorn mk3 today in a pretty good
room with a couple of small tube amps and a good source with good recordings.
My very first impression was that of a hollow sound. Stuffing the speakers more
into the corners and toeing them in in front of the listeners helped a good bit to
get some bass going and to lessen the 7k peak. I thought they were a bit bass light but the room was
fairly big, maybe 13 by 15 and well-damped.

He had minimal stuffing in the speakers, only felt and poly in the throat and
the V section stuffed with poly. I understand that more stuffing would mean
less bass. Would it also mean less hollowness to the sound though?

I suggested hogging out a chamfer behind the driver, a supra baffle, and
some dammar on the cone.

My ears did adjust to the sound and I did very much enjoy the listening, but
what could be down to ameliorate the singing-from- the -bottom-of-a-well
sound? thanks
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Old 14th November 2012, 07:02 AM   #746
TerryO is offline TerryO  United States
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Having not heard your speakers I'm shooting in the dark a bit. So what I say should be taken with a grain of salt.

It seems that the suffing really needs work. It actually takes a fair amount of stuffing to kill the bass. Just stuff away and listen as you go. Just make sure that you can extract stuffing if you overdo it and need to back up. The "holloness" is probably due to a lack of damping as you suggest.
Be sure to do a lot of listening as you go and carefully document each step in case you overdo it and need to back up.

As for "hogging" out the chamber, that's probably a really poor idea. It may be better to just start anew.

Best Regards,
TerryO
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Old 14th November 2012, 01:03 PM   #747
mor2bz is offline mor2bz  United States
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i didn't mean to hog out the chamber, just the back of the hole at
45 degrees in which the driver resides.
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Old 14th November 2012, 02:27 PM   #748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mor2bz View Post
chamfer
Quote:
Originally Posted by TerryO View Post
chamber
Patience Grasshopper.
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Old 14th November 2012, 04:24 PM   #749
TerryO is offline TerryO  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Weldon View Post
Patience Grasshopper.
One must study the Master's wisdom and learn to read.

(Cal, I'm still getting words confused once in a while when reading.)

Best Regards,
Terry
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Old 14th November 2012, 07:13 PM   #750
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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my :
the FE126 in FH3 (for that matter any rear mouth BLH ) certainly benefits from symmetrical corner/boundary loading, full chamfering of rear side of driver through hole, as well as the famous Fostex extended break in period

if the top or one side panel is not removable, adjusting stuffing fill levels in the closed taper "above" the driver, (behind the divider panel) will be "rather tricky"

additional fiber fill below the driver will would tame the bass -necessary for Alpair 7 and EL70 for example, but generally not found so for the FE126

how thick is the felt, and are side walls, top and divider panel in the immediate vicinity of driver lined?
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