In this shop both are available , jute felt and fiber glass .. which one would be preferable out of these two.. they also have wool felt but it seems to be hard one (not much soft/spongy) and shop guy is saying its not good for speaker application.)..If Jute felt, 2 layers of 6mm, or a single layer if 10-12mm should be sufficient.
Hi all. I’m just finishing off my build with Alpair 7MS drivers. Looks like about 30g of stuffing in the point is normal. Any suggestions how much to put under the driver to begin with? About another 30g? Thanks, Andrew.
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With the CHN110? I'm afraid not; it wouldn't physically fit without a fair bit of messing around (and its motor structure will probably choke airflow significantly even then). FH3 is acoustically speaking somewhat undersized for the 110 too, although assuming you could avoid the other issues, it might work albeit a bit choked & with somewhat limited LF extension.
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Hello HMJ,
For the past 9 years I have listened to my FH3's with CHP-70's, 40 Hz upwards, everything from solo instruments to full range electronica, I tried a few designs prior to that now I have no need to change. As good as a pair of Lowther PM6's in Acousta cabinets but with a lower extension.
Cheers - J
For the past 9 years I have listened to my FH3's with CHP-70's, 40 Hz upwards, everything from solo instruments to full range electronica, I tried a few designs prior to that now I have no need to change. As good as a pair of Lowther PM6's in Acousta cabinets but with a lower extension.
Cheers - J
With the CHN110? I'm afraid not; it wouldn't physically fit without a fair bit of messing around (and its motor structure will probably choke airflow significantly even then). FH3 is acoustically speaking somewhat undersized for the 110 too, although assuming you could avoid the other issues, it might work albeit a bit choked & with somewhat limited LF extension.
Thanks for the reply Scott, so realistically FHXL, Pensil and the TQWT you designed for it are my only options by the sound of it, unless I settle with a BR stand mounter. as you had a hand in the design of all, which one would you be putting your money on to build in terms of low extension? cheers
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Hello HMJ,
For the past 9 years I have listened to my FH3's with CHP-70's, 40 Hz upwards, everything from solo instruments to full range electronica, I tried a few designs prior to that now I have no need to change. As good as a pair of Lowther PM6's in Acousta cabinets but with a lower extension.
Cheers - J
Thanks J, thats very helpful feedback as I havent got the time or budget to build and try loads of designs, so nailing one on paper is my only option, which is difficult. funny enough I am looking to move the Acoustas on, and build a nice replacement. I love the aesthetic design element of the FHs and read on here how nice they sound in general. Decisions, Decisions huh?
Hello HMJ,
FH3 - a lot more than the sum of its parts, but, designed properly in the first place. If you want soft, warm and pleasant use valves. If you want bright, sharp and analytical spend £20 on Class D (including the power supply) lol.
Cheers - J
FH3 - a lot more than the sum of its parts, but, designed properly in the first place. If you want soft, warm and pleasant use valves. If you want bright, sharp and analytical spend £20 on Class D (including the power supply) lol.
Cheers - J
... unless I settle with a BR stand mounter. as you had a hand in the design of all, which one would you be putting your money on to build in terms of low extension? cheers
A BR could be done that reaches the floor, the needed box is not that small. One has to be careful not to end up with an ML-TL thou. An optimum miniOnken is 25 litres.
dave
Thanks Dave, I was referencing the ones done on the CHN 110 spec sheet, shows several. It will boil down to one of them. I am having difficulty choosing between them. Ive been spending the afternoon with the driver in small ported test boxes to burn them in, they sound absolutely fabulous so I know the proper cabinet will not dissapoint. Cheers
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