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Old 13th September 2012, 01:07 PM   #701
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tlawra... if you want mine email me, i have 10 sets of speakers right now. see my last build. shipping would be ok from lax to mil.. jon.parkhurst@mac.com. we could come up with a mutual agreement.. JP
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Old 13th September 2012, 01:54 PM   #702
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You learn to work with what you can get. 15mm and 18mm BB is always available if you are willing to buy a skid and pick it up at some LCL freight terminal. 12mm BB is readily available because it is used by cabinet makers for drawer sides. Lately I have settled on a product known as "TigerPly" It is 11-ply 17-18mm and made of Paulownia wood. Plus side: Readily available, cheap, quite stiff. Down side: Layers are usually overlapped leaving minor voids at the ends of the layer and the internal layers are not always flat. The microscopically thin finish layers chip badly, particularly when routing. Using TigerPly as a finish surface is iffy at best.

Don't overlook good cabinet grade 3/4" 5(7)-ply. For a price, nearly void free is available. Core wood varies with region. What I get is pine. I understand the purist desire for BB, but if you can't get it, you can't get if.

When I really want BB for baffles and tops of large floor standers, I will laminate two sheets of 12mm BB. Talk about stiff and heavy....

Bob
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Old 13th September 2012, 04:09 PM   #703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlarwa View Post
I've searched around here (Milwaukee area) and none of the specialty wood shops have Baltic birch ply in 15mm or 18mm. I can get 1/2" and 3/4" though. Can I use the 18mm cut sheet with 3/4" (19mm) ply? Any modifications that would be needed?
Rarely is 15mm or 18mm material exactly this thick. In the US, and even here in Canada, 12 mm is often called 1/2", 15mm 3/8, and 18 mm 3/4".

Did you actually take a caliper or tape to the ply you are looking at?

Because of this one has to get the material, measure its actual thickness and adjust the plans to fit.

dave
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Old 11th October 2012, 01:39 PM   #704
tlarwa is offline tlarwa  United States
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Default Rear deflector/bass unit

I'm considering building the rear deflector shown here:

Frugel Horn v1 Maps 130307

I would make it the same height as the FH3 however. I'm looking at putting a woofer it, driven by a plate amp mounted in a separate enclosure. It looks like the internal volume of the deflector enclosure will be in the neighborhood of .7-.8 cu.ft. Any recommendations on a suitable driver for this size space? I'm thinking that the biggest driver I could possibly fit would be 8", and it my be 7" depending on the depth and size of the basket. I'm not looking to spend a fortune.

Suggestions?

Tom
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Old 11th October 2012, 03:54 PM   #705
Adam0 is offline Adam0  Belgium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlarwa View Post
I'm considering building the rear deflector shown here:

Frugel Horn v1 Maps 130307

I would make it the same height as the FH3 however. I'm looking at putting a woofer it, driven by a plate amp mounted in a separate enclosure. It looks like the internal volume of the deflector enclosure will be in the neighborhood of .7-.8 cu.ft. Any recommendations on a suitable driver for this size space? I'm thinking that the biggest driver I could possibly fit would be 8", and it my be 7" depending on the depth and size of the basket. I'm not looking to spend a fortune.

Suggestions?

Tom
Hi Tom, how will you connect your plate amp? I am interested to know if you will somehow connect it to your pre-amp output or are you using a modern amp with a sub-woofer output?
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Old 11th October 2012, 05:37 PM   #706
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Tom: 'cause we had a bunch, the drivers we used in the "stealth" woofer is CSS SDX7 - not the cheapest candidate in this size but works very well in small sealed - not ported - boxes.

Others likely would be Silver Flute, Dayton and even perhaps Peerless HDS series - of those I'm not sure which particular model numbers to suggest.
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Last edited by chrisb; 11th October 2012 at 05:42 PM. Reason: punckiation
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Old 11th October 2012, 07:14 PM   #707
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You can always increase the volume of the deflector by making it deeper.

dave
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Old 11th October 2012, 11:54 PM   #708
tlarwa is offline tlarwa  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam0 View Post
Hi Tom, how will you connect your plate amp? I am interested to know if you will somehow connect it to your pre-amp output or are you using a modern amp with a sub-woofer output?
Ah, good question. I obviously haven't thought this through completely. I was more focused on being able to use the internal adjustable crossover in the plate amp and never really thought about how to run the signal. My HT receiver has a sub output, so it was a no brainer. The FH3s are run off an MP-301 Mk2 integrated tube amp though, so no such luck.

Anyone have suggestions on how to best power these woofer units and run the signal? I haven't bought anything yet so it's a good time to figure it out!

Tom
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Old 12th October 2012, 10:57 AM   #709
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You can use Y cables from the CD player and feed both amps that way. Another option is sending the CD player's analog signal to the MP while sending it's digital to a DAC and then from there to the plate amp.

Instead of a plate amp on one project I used an older Denon AVR in 2 channel mode to drive bass woofers using it's internal DAC to convert the CD player's digital signal ( coax or optical ).
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Old 12th October 2012, 05:56 PM   #710
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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I understand that a lot of guys like to use the high level inputs on plate amps to maintain the "sonic signature" of the amp driving the mains (particularly if a "tasty" SET etc), but doing so negates the overall advantages to be gain by High Passing the mains; increased dynamics, higher attainable SPL, and reduction of distortion.

Personally I'd use the line level inputs and since my audio only system has level controls on both the tube amp driving the mains and DAC/Pre-amp, matching levels is very straightforward.

Now of course if you're not using a plate amp with integrated XO, or miniDSP etc, things can get a bit more interesting - but even then, PLLXO are not that complicated or expensive (a separate chassis, in - out jacks and interconnect cables can easily cost more than the parts for low signal level filters)
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Last edited by chrisb; 12th October 2012 at 05:59 PM.
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