Yes, this is very much possible.
Please refer to the following post - there is a cutting plan attached showing what type of hole you can make in the main baffle.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ful...3-builds-build-questions-126.html#post4971484
Then you can make smaller baffle pieces (supra-baffle) according to various drivers and attach on to main baffle to try out.
A finished set can end up looking like this:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ful...k3-builds-build-questions-66.html#post3087469
Another example with a removable supra-baffle and removable top (can make adjusting the amount of stuffing easier):
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/172605-frugel-horn-mk3-72.html#post2766380
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Thank you very much!
A precious information!
PS: Your build is impressive! Compliments!
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Zia’s simple supraBaffle example is what we are now doing. A slightly more elaborate one is in the planset, and much more elaborate ones can be imagined.
The FE133 should work fine in FH3. I have not seen that driver, but everything from FE103a to FF125wk have been successfully fitted. I would suggest 20g polypill to start under the driver, but you may find a need to adjust that. A removable supraBaffle makes that easier.
dave
The FE133 should work fine in FH3. I have not seen that driver, but everything from FE103a to FF125wk have been successfully fitted. I would suggest 20g polypill to start under the driver, but you may find a need to adjust that. A removable supraBaffle makes that easier.
dave
Flat pack kits
Dave,
I know you have been having health issues and thankfully are doing better. I have tried to contact you by email to planet 10 with no response. I was wondering if you have any flat pack kits for the Mfonken left over. If not I know Chris’s retired and you are no longer producing them and I was wandering if you are making the cnc files available to have them locally routed. I live in central California and would be willing to make a few extras for interested parties, however it would have to be local pickup as shipping is a can of worms I do not care to open.
Many thanks for all the time and effort you have offered the diy community.
Bill
Dave,
I know you have been having health issues and thankfully are doing better. I have tried to contact you by email to planet 10 with no response. I was wondering if you have any flat pack kits for the Mfonken left over. If not I know Chris’s retired and you are no longer producing them and I was wandering if you are making the cnc files available to have them locally routed. I live in central California and would be willing to make a few extras for interested parties, however it would have to be local pickup as shipping is a can of worms I do not care to open.
Many thanks for all the time and effort you have offered the diy community.
Bill
Except for the XL version, the PDF files with all the appropriate dimensions should be available for free. I believe you even have permission to make your own flatpacks for sale with proper attribution.
I even sent the PDF file to a local California manufacturer to get a quote and he mentioned being able to cut a flat pack for ~$230.
+ a manufacturer needs to have a commercial licence of the MJK worksheets (a one-time purchase that also covers things like Pencils).
dave
I've enjoyed my FH Mk3's with the Fostex FE126EN drivers for years. Recently I came into a pair of nice Coral Holey Baskets so I tried them in place of the Fostex drivers and they have proven to be a major upgrade. Don't know their specs but they are also SET friendly.
After my experience with the Zenith 49CZ802 and now the Corals I'm beginning to believe there's some magic in vintage alnico speakers.
After my experience with the Zenith 49CZ802 and now the Corals I'm beginning to believe there's some magic in vintage alnico speakers.
Thanks Kevin, Send me some pics when you have them together. I'm working on drawing up the Xls in all 18mm.
I was lucky enough to purchase the last (I think) flat pak from Dave and have a question about "upgrading" the binding posts on the FH3.
I've read many posts here from Dave and others about why some of the more expensive binding posts are not necessarily better and why the relatively cheap ones that come in the kit are preferred (due to low metal, for one).
I haven't found any conclusive recommendations for an upgrade besides the Eichmann CablePod, and those recommendations have been from quite a few years ago.
Also, those wouldnt fit in the original 2" cup that is provided.
Any thoughts on the WBT-0703 or WBT-0708 which aren't crazy expensive and seem to be low mass as well?
If that is simply overkill or waste of money, are there any recommended posts that can fit in the original cup that would be considered an improvement?
I've read many posts here from Dave and others about why some of the more expensive binding posts are not necessarily better and why the relatively cheap ones that come in the kit are preferred (due to low metal, for one).
I haven't found any conclusive recommendations for an upgrade besides the Eichmann CablePod, and those recommendations have been from quite a few years ago.
Also, those wouldnt fit in the original 2" cup that is provided.
Any thoughts on the WBT-0703 or WBT-0708 which aren't crazy expensive and seem to be low mass as well?
If that is simply overkill or waste of money, are there any recommended posts that can fit in the original cup that would be considered an improvement?
The Eichmann Cablepods or the equivalent from his new company. The WBT NextGen are in the same league. All pricey and i know the last does not allow standard 3/4” spacing.
I have retrofitted the Connex amp posts in the cup you have it (or the more pedestrianhex head amp posts). More a mechanical upgrade than a sonic one.
But if you ar enot disconnecting them much, extendin gthe internal wiring outside (easy) and then using the 5-way posts to clamp that wire to the one from your amp works even better.
dave
I have retrofitted the Connex amp posts in the cup you have it (or the more pedestrianhex head amp posts). More a mechanical upgrade than a sonic one.
But if you ar enot disconnecting them much, extendin gthe internal wiring outside (easy) and then using the 5-way posts to clamp that wire to the one from your amp works even better.
dave
Having used early versions of both the Eichmann Cable Pods and Silver Bullet RCA's (i.e. years before I stopped anxiously awaiting announcement of latest flavor of designer Kool-Aid) I can attest that aside from not hearing any sonic improvement, and them both being a royal pain in diaz to work with, I can think of several other ways to spend the money - several of which being ethanol related.
Thanks for the info.
So how do you go about doing this? Do you drill a hole in the plastic cup and thread the wire through there? If so, does that hole need to be sealed?