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#581 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Coaxman,
Where are you in Canada? dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#582 |
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diyAudio Member
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I've had my pair going for a few months now so it's about time I posted some pics and feedback.
Although I did all the stuffing as per instructions and post #424, with the removable lid I ended up taking all stuffing from the front chamber so it's left looking like my first pic here. I dont find it's too boomy at all, the bass now matches the mid/highs just nicely. In saying that, they are not in the perfect listening position just now. I'll soon be moving them to my back room where they'll be sitting a good distance from the wall and nicely in a corner. This may require some stuffing placed back in, but thats why I made the top removable hay I'd recommend the method I used for the top lid removal. One M6 bolt into a self tapping timber thread insert. You need to do a bit of sanding till the lid fits snugly, but then it's access in seconds. I used self adhesive foam strip designed for door draft sealing to form a gasket. If you glue a "gate" of stuffing across the base you can just drop in or remove stuffing quickly and easily (you do need to remove the driver first of course). I was going to make some feet coming out for the floor spikes but ran out of time. They're very steady with them just fixed to the four corners how it is. I spent a lot of time modifying the original dxf for use with 18mm ply that retains all internal dimensions as drawn. It’s for a cnc router but could be used for hand cutting too. If anyone would like a copy just pm me. Thanks heaps to the developers of these little beauties, both for the design and knowledge plus all the "after sale service". I spend more time listening to them now than my Sonus Fabers. |
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#583 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Jodt, how do they compare with your Sonus Fabers? Strengths and weaknesses? And which Sonus Fabers do you have?
Thanks, UL |
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#584 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Jdot - brilliant work - the last line of post 582 is very telling
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#585 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Seattle,Wash.
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Quote:
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"If you have to ask why, then you're probably on the right track." quote from Terry Olson's DIYaudio Forum application |
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#586 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Another centre -- for those with CHR FH3.
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...tre-160212.pdf dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#587 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Chicago
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Has anyone tried to build this with the Fe166En 160mm driver?
Presumably the horn length would have to be scaled up to the 1/4 wave length for its Fs... but other than that.. the basic design should hold, no? |
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#588 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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We have not successfully made this idea work for the FE166.
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#589 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Chicago
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Thanks Planet10. Now I just have to decide if I'll build based on the 126 or if I'll do some measurements and start to experiment.
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#590 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
do you already have the FE166E on hand, or in transit? if so a BIB would likely be the simplest - for which I'm sure the math has been done; for a more advanced build and arguably more nuanced performance, the Woden Victor or Olson / Nagaoka manifold (Haruna) would be worth a look based on several builds of similar designs, I'd imagine the former would be an easier build (if my part count is right, there's 38 pieces per box for the manifolds)
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