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#521 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: North Texas, USA
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Not really. Besides, you're going to have trouble finding a solid wood piece wide enough for the sides. I would not recommend making a glue-up panel for the side pieces.
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I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now. |
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#522 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
They may also not be as long lived as a plywood box, particularily if you live in a locale that has big swings in humidity. Performance will vary from wood to wood (even among the same species). I have seen some pretty nice solid wood builds. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#523 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Exactly how Bernie did his Victor
![]() Woden Design Victor for FE166En (these w FE166eN^2 are for sale since he has decided to redo them in maple for the FE166eSR) dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#524 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: North Texas, USA
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The key phrase. Given the side profile of the FH3, a glue-up panel will be very challenging. Sufficiently so that if one had to ask, this probably isn't the project to start solid panel glue-ups.
__________________
I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now. |
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#525 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Point taken... good to emphasize that.
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#526 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Quote:
Thanks so much for the insight. I do have the resources to join up a “butcher board” and cut to desired shapes but I think I’ll go with the local box store birch ply for my first build. I’m like crazy busy right now but planning ahead and learning as time permits. Robert |
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#527 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Paris, AR
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Here's a picture of mine when I was building them. They are baltic birch with roll on truck bed liner then sprayed blue.
I'm using some vintage Cleveland alnico drivers from a trashed Webcor reel to reel along with some Dayton ND20 tweeters crossed first order at 8k to cover the top end. This has been a fun and great sounding project so far! |
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#528 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ireland
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A friend has some jordan JX92s - he is willing to give me a lend of them to try out, but its a bit of a job to go and actually get them (distance).
Can anyone tell me whether they are suited to the frugal horn? spec sheet here: http://documents.jordan-usa.com/JX92S.pdf TIA fran |
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#529 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
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hi all - I'm about to start building a pair of frugal horns and my question is where/how to place the terminals? Also, do terminals typically come with the drivers when you buy them? I'm planning to order Fostex FE126En.
I presume I need to resolve these questions before I start gluing my panels together as I'll need to cut a space at the back for the terminals prior to assembly. (The Fostex website gives a nice schematic of the driver so I'm happy proceeding with the front of the cabinet before the speakers arrive.) Appreciate your thoughts. |
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#530 |
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diyAudio Member
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If you were to put on a supra baffle to expand the outer edges and install an 8 inch driver in it???? What would happen....would it conflict with the back of the actual 5 inch opening going in to the frugal, would it totally suck?
I am finishing up my second set of frugals and thought about how others are making supra baffles to accommodate other drivers..... ?What would theoretically happen to an 8 inch full range driver.....Feel free to flog me now or later...... Jon |
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