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Old 9th September 2011, 06:20 PM   #491
Toppsy is offline Toppsy  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Toppsy,

Drop dead gorgeous dolls they are. How can I duplicate those sexy pumps for my girls?
Poultrygeist,

By that I assume you mean the outrigger supports?

If so, you need 4-lengths of 1" x 1/8"(or 3/16") x 12" strips of steel or aluminium, some of these: SPS-35/GO, and 8 of these: DIN466 Knurled Nuts. And a set of M6 taps to threaded holes through the metal strip.

Or you can order a fully made up set for 40.00 UKP + shipping to USA direct from me

Forgot to mention you will need some M6 threaded inserts and M6 x 1/2" mushroom head bolts to fix to the underside of the speakers

Last edited by Toppsy; 9th September 2011 at 06:22 PM. Reason: Additional information added
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Old 9th September 2011, 07:16 PM   #492
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toppsy View Post
Poultrygeist,

By that I assume you mean the outrigger supports?

If so, you need 4-lengths of 1" x 1/8"(or 3/16") x 12" strips of steel or aluminium, some of these: SPS-35/GO, and 8 of these: DIN466 Knurled Nuts. And a set of M6 taps to threaded holes through the metal strip.

Or you can order a fully made up set for 40.00 UKP + shipping to USA direct from me

Forgot to mention you will need some M6 threaded inserts and M6 x 1/2" mushroom head bolts to fix to the underside of the speakers

Colin, after getting a price quote from our friendly neighborhood machine and powder-coat plating shop, that's an excellent bargain.
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Old 9th September 2011, 09:40 PM   #493
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Little update:

I rebated the drivers and put a small bevel on the back of the driver hole. The bass seemed about right, so I went ahead and glued on the side panel. So they are close to 60 hours of break in and tomorrow I'll bring them in for another listen.



Fran
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Old 10th September 2011, 10:43 PM   #494
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Mmmm, you guys are spot on with your advice. It sounds much better now than before - no doubt due to the rebate into the baffle, the bevelled inside edge and of course some burn in (~60 hrs now).

I'm really quite impressed with these!! They do a lot of things very right. Bass is very good and tight, and low enough to be satisfying without recourse to subs. Careful placement helps a lot with soundstage, in particular the toe-in seems important in my room at least (less toe-in than my sachikos).

The one thing they weren't so hot on early on was complicated music, but that is definitely better now than earlier. Still not as "capable" as the much bigger sachikos, but I wouldn't give any word on this yet - maybe after another 60-100 hours. Let me state again, they are improving at this, and seem likely to improve more. If that does happen, it removes one of the only niggles with this speaker.

Sensitivity seems lower than the sachiko, but to be honest that is not a bad thing maybe!!

Fran
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Old 13th September 2011, 10:22 PM   #495
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These continue to improve..... Fran
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Old 18th September 2011, 06:59 PM   #496
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Today I made some extended baffles - just a U-shaped piece of mdf that sits flush with the baffle and extends it by 130mm all round. I left the amp running playing loud - but not very loud (just to let it all warm up). Anyhow, I get back after a few minutes and I notice a dent in one of the drivers Grr.

Looks like I over drove the drivers - it wasn't that loud - Is this normal/possible etc etc?


Must post this over in the mark audio section....

Fran
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Old 30th September 2011, 11:29 PM   #497
Roffin is offline Roffin  Sweden
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Hi!

How would a pair of Jordan jx92s work in the frugals??

And also what kind of bass could one expert from a old fe103?

Cheers
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Old 1st October 2011, 11:58 AM   #498
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Default Center channel speaker?

I'm using 4 Mk3's in a surround system and would appreciate suggestions for a center channel.
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Old 1st October 2011, 07:07 PM   #499
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by Poultrygeist View Post
I'm using 4 Mk3's in a surround system and would appreciate suggestions for a center channel.

With FE126E's? While this driver is not normally considered a great candidate for a small vented enclosure due to the resultant very poor low frequency performance, an HT system with full bass management etc, could certainly be an exception.



Whenever possible, I think it's best to use the same driver model across the front row, and obviously some installations have more constraints on size & placement of center channel enclosure. For the FE126E, something between 4-6 liters, tuned for around 110-120Hz should suffice. The dimensions could be massaged to as short in height as under 5". Drop Dave an email at the P-10 link, and he could probably find a sketch in his archives, or throw some new pixels at it quickly enough.
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Old 1st October 2011, 07:37 PM   #500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
For the FE126E, something between 4-6 liters, tuned for around 110-120Hz should suffice. The dimensions could be massaged to as short in height as under 5". Drop Dave an email at the P-10 link, and he could probably find a sketch in his archives, or throw some new pixels at it quickly enough.
The "sketch" is in my head. I just need to find a 1/2 hr to draw it up. I'm working on a 1v0 release of the FH3 document, with updates to everything done so far including removable vestigial supraBaffle. I'll add this little centre to the FH3 appendix.

dave
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