Frugel-Horn Mk3 Builds & Build Questions

Hey guys. I am about to begin my first woodworking project- I have build skateboard ramps and tree houses but nothing that needs this much precision- and I thought these speakers would be a great starter. I am by no means an audiophile. The only speakers I have ever bought were b652s :sorry: and they sound fine to me for the price. So I bought a router and some BB ply- did not expect it to be $130 for 18mm but loved how it had 12 layers- and before I start to chop it up would like some advice and considerations.

1. Should I leave a space between the lines I draw for the width of the blade( 40 tooth carbide tipped) and is there any tricks to keeping the cuts square with a circular saw- the lumber yard had to cut the top portion so it would fit in my car( using the simple cut layout because I think I need simple)- and am not sure how square the cut is?
2. Any good tricks to cutting the driver holes, chamfering it and routing it so the driver sits flush- i.e. the bits I need and a jig?
3. What is the bet way to cut the 4.8, 4.9 and 5 degree angle cuts for the cab- again using a circular saw?
4. Driver selection. Money is not really a problem but I feel I may not notice the difference between the $72/pair CHR70-A and the $170/pair Alpair 7.3 and $100 is $100.

I do not listen to music much and read about the limitation of these speakers. My next project may be a folded horn sub to make up for the bass. These will probably serve as the mains in a 5.1-7.1 setup and then music for parties- most likely dance music which is why a need for a sub. I love music- majored in it in college- but don't listen to it all the time. Jazz, blues, opera, classical, rock, hip-hop, acid jazz, show tunes, folk; I could go on for ever. This is why I chose these speakers, for their versatility. I am just afraid to start cutting with my limited experience and would like to choose a driver before I start. Thanks for a beautiful design and hope these questions are not too newbie for a group like you guys.
 
Baverdi,

It is very likely you will notice the sonic benefits of the Alp 7.3 vs the CHR-70; in short more refined and extended top end, higher resolution, superior tonal balance, and probably better bass in the FH-MK3.

Would you be tempted to do the FHXL - very similar to Frugel Horn Mk3 but for the Alp 10.x drivers?
 
Baverdi,

It is very likely you will notice the sonic benefits of the Alp 7.3 vs the CHR-70; in short more refined and extended top end, higher resolution, superior tonal balance, and probably better bass in the FH-MK3.

Would you be tempted to do the FHXL - very similar to Frugel Horn Mk3 but for the Alp 10.x drivers?
Then cost goes up much more. This was supposed to be under $200. I do not even have a place to put these speakers as I am planing a move when I find the right property( apt to house hopefully) Those drivers alone max out what I thought this would cost. And I think I want way more bass than these could give any ways, that is why I am thinking folded horn sub that I could turn up or down depending on the media.

The chatter on this forum says the Alp 7.3 but that is coming from people who listen to speakers as a profession. I thought the b652 were a world away from my old pc speakers ACS340 which still sell for $120 13 years after I got them and out of production.

How much more material does the FHXL take?

Not to put you guys down but a good Home Theater is a box sounds awesome to me. I just thought I would go a more traditional route. Build from the ground up and do my research. This set is called frugel because of a bang for the buck result. I also love the look.

When I here higher resolution I think HD TV. I am way out of my realm on this. Tried reading what EnABled is and had to take an aspirin.

I really appreciate the suggestion and will keep in consideration.

My major issue is how not to **** up the build. Not that the tonal balance would be substandard. But maybe I am wrong. I am new to this
 
With careful nesting of parts, you can yield a full pair of FH3 from a single 4x8 - and while I've recently commented elsewhere that the XLs are not all that much larger, the differences are just enough that even the best Festool board stretcher won't quite make that so.

When using plywood, I like to pay attention to grain direction - it makes no difference structurally, but if you're not veneering over, it will affect aesthetics.
With the XLs, there will be lots of goofy sized off cuts from 2@ 5x5.

I have a fair bit of listening experience to both sizes - the raw tonality of the respective drives is more than subtly different enough that it'd be hard to make a categorical recommendation of sonic merits of one over the other, without expressing a personal preference. FWIW, with no budget or room constraints, I'd probably lean towards the XL/10Ps

Of what there is no doubt is that the total cost of the FHXL with A10P is higher than the FH3/7.3 - $25 each for the drivers - how much more for the enclosure material will depend on individual circumstance. (i.e. if you have a stock pile of offcuts from other work, maybe not so much)

finally, for now - did I mention Plywood, not MDF? :D
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
The FHxl are nice. So are the Alpair 7.3 (probably my choice), But given your goals, you budget, and where you are coming from, and considering that it is almost impossible to stop after just one cookie, go cheap, use the CHR or CHP70.

Find out just how good a cheap speaker can be. You can swap drivers (with a bit of work) or build more when the urge gets you.

dave
 
Thank you Chris and Dave for posting, means a lot to have some of the original designers helping me out.

Went with the CHPs and have a feeling that in a year I'll be buying the A7s just to see what I am missing. Oh well just gotta make a new cab for the CHPs.

I love this design and will post pictures of my build no matter how terrible they turn out.
 
An easy option to allow for swapping of drivers with different cut out sizes is to make the main front baffle with a large rectangular opening, and a set of separate mounting plates for each driver.

Use threaded inserts to allow for repeated removal of plates, and seal with a perimeter gasket of PSA weatherstrip tape


This should also provide enough access for adjusting fill levels immediately surrounding and below the driver as might be necessary.
 

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I found the interaction of the room boundaries with the FH3 determined the amount of stuffing. One of mine was heavily stuffed and the other was zero stuffing. Try the minimum amount in both first, and then decide to change, unless you have experience with other speakers in the same room. More stuffing tames the upper bass(bloom).
Peter
 
Can the Frugalhorn MK3 accomodate larger drivers? If so, how large is the largest?

I'm in the orient and saw a driver that is sold only here. Very interesting - they do only direct sales but had one factory store. Don't even know where to find them online. They have 3.5", 6.5" and 8".

The two smaller ones use lambskin surrounds around the driver, rather than butyl rubber or whatever else they normally use. Lambskin??? Never heard of that but the 3.5" that I heard sounded really wonderful.

I am however wondering if one can fit a 6.5" driver in the frugalhorn.

Thanks,
UL
 
The short answer is that the FHXL would be a much better bet for a 6" class FR driver. While the actual cone on Alpair10s measure at slightly under 100mm ( 10.3Metal = 97mm by my caliper), they do have a 6" frame, and FWIW, I can attest that the 10P in the XL certainly works.

Lambskin / leather is not something new in driver surrounds.
 
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frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
I'm in the orient and saw a driver that is sold only here. Very interesting - they do only direct sales but had one factory store. Don't even know where to find them online. They have 3.5", 6.5" and 8".

On 1st guess 2x3.5" might work in FH3, 6.5" might work in FHxl. But more info is needed. The size of the driver determines whether it will fit on the baffle, but other parameters, Vas in particular, determine necessary box size.

dave
 
2 things:

- I assume the fibre fill "above" the driver location (i.e. from slightly below where the wires feed to the driver and in the rear tapered section of line) is left out for purposes of clarity of the photo

- I've never built FH3 without the 1/2" Ultratouch, and the panel padding shown looks to be a bit light for the job

Don't forget that once the second side panel is securely attached, it's virtually impossible to access the inside for adjustment of the side walls and rear section.