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Old 25th June 2011, 10:17 AM   #371
Toppsy is offline Toppsy  United Kingdom
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leeoh wrote
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By the way, did you see the video, attached to one of the posts showing how to avoid splintering when ripping ply? The guy raised the blade slightly above table level so that when he put it thro', the blade scored a very shallow cut, then he put the blade to the proper height to cut right thro' the sheet. Makes sense.
I generally have all my 2440mm x 1220mm sheet MDF and Baltic Birch Ply cut on a CNC controlled flat bed circular saw and have no issues with rip out of the grain. Perhaps I'm fortunate. But if one is using a home DIY circular saw table that has a much slower cutting speed then yes this method may help. I think the secret is as fast a cutting speed as you can achieve and a sharp blade. Particle board will blunt a new blade very quickly and is why I don't use the stuff, cheap as it is.
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Old 25th June 2011, 11:05 AM   #372
jimbro is offline jimbro  United States
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I just use a zero-clearance insert with a Forrest blade and I have no splintering.
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Old 25th June 2011, 04:43 PM   #373
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Colin, most CNC panel or beam saws and even many larger commercial table saws will have a counter-rotating pre-scoring saw to prevents the type of chip-out on bottom edge. If the scoring blade is disabled, there's no guarantee on eliminating chipping across veneer grain patterns or on double sided melamine, plastic laminate layups - indeed the latter two can chip in any direction of cut .

The double cutting that leeoh mentioned achieves essentially the same results, albeit in a more time consuming manner, and unless material is feed with pressurized feed rollers, there's the risk of not perfect edges on the second cut..

I've found high density plywood can be t least as hard on tooling tooling edges as MDF - certainly router bits and hole saws get dull and burn much faster on Baltic Birch than on MDF or particle board / melamine .
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Old 25th June 2011, 06:33 PM   #374
kec is offline kec  United States
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I've used masking tape to prevent splintering. It's a hassle to do, but works pretty good.
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Old 1st July 2011, 04:52 AM   #375
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Default No Rez for FH3 & others?

OK, it looks like the most are using polyfill and some type of thick cotton or wool felt for damping. Are those better or as good as the No Rez stuff that I've been reading about that is supposedly designed specifically for damping speakers? The claims sure look impressive.

Thanks for any help.

No Rez 24"x27" Sheet - NR-24x27

UL

Last edited by Ultralight; 1st July 2011 at 04:56 AM.
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Old 1st July 2011, 05:03 AM   #376
TerryO is offline TerryO  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultralight View Post
OK, it looks like the most are using polyfill and some type of thick cotton or wool felt for damping. Are those better or as good as the No Rez stuff that I've been reading about that is supposedly designed specifically for damping speakers? The claims sure look impressive.

Thanks for any help.

No Rez 24"x27" Sheet - NR-24x27

UL
It looks to be a very expensive way to kill your speakers. I wouldn't bother with it, cotton, wool and polyfill all work well and don't take the life out of the music.

However, to be fair, there are those that believe that if a little damping is good, too much is even better.

Best Regards,
TerryO
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Old 1st July 2011, 06:24 AM   #377
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In the specific case of the FH3 we want volume fiill which this isn't. And it is far too thick to use anywhere else.

I have a whole bunch of that no-rez stuff here. Still haven't found a useful place for it.

dave
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Old 3rd July 2011, 09:38 PM   #378
TerryO is offline TerryO  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post

I have a whole bunch of that no-rez stuff here. Still haven't found a useful place for it.

dave
Dave,

I turned down a bunch of that stuff at one of the last meets in Surrey, BC.
One of a very limited number of smart moves I've ever made.

Best Regards,
Terry
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Old 4th July 2011, 12:37 AM   #379
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LOL!!! Thanks guys for the heads up on the NO REZ. And I thought I stumbled on some great secret to take the FH3 to another level.... Talk about being a newbie.

UL
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Old 4th July 2011, 12:42 AM   #380
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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The 1/2" Ultratouch (recycled denim) is very ] easy to work with, and quite adequate for internal panels on the FH3.

For the additonal loose fill, Acoustastuff or generic BAF from sewing supply houses works very well. In the case of the FH, the front fold below the driver expands downwards, so some type of mesh is advisable to hold in place.
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