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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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our prototype pair was built as test bed for up to 4 different drivers, so I made removable mounting plates which were fitted with countersunk pin jacks for direct connection to drivers
I'm not as "hair shirt" about this as some guys - hell, I use a little cheapie 2" plastic cup with 5-way binding posts. On the next iteration(s) ( I almost said "if " ), I'd be inclined to install the input terminals on the slanted rear panel, a couple of inches below the center of driver cut-out.but from the original inception, the "Frugel-Horn project" was about collaborative design and builder experimentation - so fill yer boots
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: utrecht
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Australia
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Hi David,
I am interested to build these speakers. What is the latest version of the plans? Norbert |
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#24 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Main plans in post 8. Plan for 18mm in post 15
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#25 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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Quote:
If yes, is there a down side to doing the same sort of 'mounting plate' for a permanent installation, and extending the plate well beyond the edges of the box in order to take advantage of a larger front baffle area? Also, if the answer is that there is no downside and one can do that to good effect, then should the speaker be mounted off-center on the larger baffle a-la the Arpeggio driver location that avoids centering on the baffle? Or perhaps use the EnABL technique on the baffle? Just trying to combine some seemingly good ideas that I've come across here on diyaudio into an even better speaker. . . |
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#26 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#27 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
Quote:
Bud applied a "stealth" EnABL block pattern to a pair of enclosures of which we have several on hand for comparison ( i.e. FE127 Fonken) and as far as we could determine, it didn't get in the way of the enclosure "disappearing"
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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This was put on the enclosure not the driver, right? Ever tried it on drivers?
Last edited by wapo54001; 7th October 2010 at 01:23 PM. |
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#29 |
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...truth seeker...
diyAudio Member
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Neat!
This does lend itself to larger drivers by using another fold in back... Is there an "ideal" driver ratio, ie., location along the line? I think an added fold opens up the range within which the driver may be positioned, hence the question.
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...call me Ed...Special Ed... EnABL kit http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/119852-enabl-kit.html DCB1 parts http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-...ml#post2361098 Last edited by Ed LaFontaine; 7th October 2010 at 05:04 PM. |
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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yes, on the boxes, and yes on drivers as well ( I just don't paint the dots myself)
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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