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Old 19th September 2010, 01:51 AM   #21
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by Scottmoose View Post
Dave, Chris and myself (i.e. the people who designed it).
our prototype pair was built as test bed for up to 4 different drivers, so I made removable mounting plates which were fitted with countersunk pin jacks for direct connection to drivers

I'm not as "hair shirt" about this as some guys - hell, I use a little cheapie 2" plastic cup with 5-way binding posts. On the next iteration(s) ( I almost said "if " ), I'd be inclined to install the input terminals on the slanted rear panel, a couple of inches below the center of driver cut-out.

but from the original inception, the "Frugel-Horn project" was about collaborative design and builder experimentation - so fill yer boots
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Old 19th September 2010, 08:35 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by wagtail View Post
We?
Royal Plural or Holy Trinity?

Probably the "music" after the DC silenced speaker will tell us.
The witnesses during the party can tell us later
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Old 4th October 2010, 01:02 PM   #23
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Hi David,

I am interested to build these speakers. What is the latest version of the plans?

Norbert
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Old 4th October 2010, 04:17 PM   #24
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Main plans in post 8. Plan for 18mm in post 15

dave
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Old 4th October 2010, 05:41 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
our prototype pair was built as test bed for up to 4 different drivers, so I made removable mounting plates which were fitted with countersunk pin jacks for direct connection to drivers
It sounds like you made the mounting plates so you could simply screw the various plates to the front panel, is that right?

If yes, is there a down side to doing the same sort of 'mounting plate' for a permanent installation, and extending the plate well beyond the edges of the box in order to take advantage of a larger front baffle area?

Also, if the answer is that there is no downside and one can do that to good effect, then should the speaker be mounted off-center on the larger baffle a-la the Arpeggio driver location that avoids centering on the baffle? Or perhaps use the EnABL technique on the baffle?

Just trying to combine some seemingly good ideas that I've come across here on diyaudio into an even better speaker. . .
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Old 4th October 2010, 06:24 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wapo54001 View Post
...is there a down side to doing the same sort of 'mounting plate' for a permanent installation, and extending the plate well beyond the edges of the box in order to take advantage of a larger front baffle area?

Also, if the answer is that there is no downside and one can do that to good effect, then should the speaker be mounted off-center on the larger baffle a-la the Arpeggio driver location that avoids centering on the baffle? Or perhaps use the EnABL technique on the baffle?...
All good questions that have not yet been answered.

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Old 4th October 2010, 06:47 PM   #27
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wapo54001 View Post
It sounds like you made the mounting plates so you could simply screw the various plates to the front panel, is that right?
pretty much

Quote:

If yes, is there a down side to doing the same sort of 'mounting plate' for a permanent installation, and extending the plate well beyond the edges of the box in order to take advantage of a larger front baffle area?

Also, if the answer is that there is no downside and one can do that to good effect, then should the speaker be mounted off-center on the larger baffle a-la the Arpeggio driver location that avoids centering on the baffle? Or perhaps use the EnABL technique on the baffle?

Just trying to combine some seemingly good ideas that I've come across here on diyaudio into an even better speaker. . .
Due to the cabinet's dimensions, there'd be a limit to how far off the driver could be offset from interior center line, but certainly there's no reason not to get creative with a non symmetrical "supra-baffle". See the builder's gallery for original FH for some interesting ideas.

Bud applied a "stealth" EnABL block pattern to a pair of enclosures of which we have several on hand for comparison ( i.e. FE127 Fonken) and as far as we could determine, it didn't get in the way of the enclosure "disappearing"
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Old 7th October 2010, 01:07 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by chrisb View Post

Bud applied a "stealth" EnABL block pattern to a pair of enclosures of which we have several on hand for comparison ( i.e. FE127 Fonken) and as far as we could determine, it didn't get in the way of the enclosure "disappearing"
This was put on the enclosure not the driver, right? Ever tried it on drivers?

Last edited by wapo54001; 7th October 2010 at 01:23 PM.
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Old 7th October 2010, 04:39 PM   #29
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Neat!

This does lend itself to larger drivers by using another fold in back...

Is there an "ideal" driver ratio, ie., location along the line?

I think an added fold opens up the range within which the driver may be positioned, hence the question.

Last edited by Ed LaFontaine; 7th October 2010 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 7th October 2010, 04:54 PM   #30
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by wapo54001 View Post
This was put on the enclosure not the driver, right? Ever tried it on drivers?
yes, on the boxes, and yes on drivers as well ( I just don't paint the dots myself)
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