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Old 10th March 2011, 08:51 AM   #191
paulwd is offline paulwd  Australia
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Yeah, I wanted to rebate them when I was building, but I used 15mm ply and I thought it might be too thin.

I reckon I will add a 9mm panel to the front.......like you say, will help the sound as well as being a feature! Thanks for the tip.
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Old 12th March 2011, 07:58 AM   #192
GdK is offline GdK  Netherlands
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Hello all,

I recently did the same thing.

I started the Mk3's (15mm) with the FE126En's, but changed to the A7's.

I glued a 9mm panel to the front.

Next up is the veneer, my wife will choose the color....

Thanks for the wonderful design and tips!

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 12th March 2011, 11:31 AM   #193
paulwd is offline paulwd  Australia
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GdK, they are looking good!

I'm looking at finishing mine in a gloss white / antique white. Also managed to source some 9mm marine ply for the front
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Old 12th March 2011, 02:46 PM   #194
Squeak is offline Squeak  Denmark
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Could someone explain what the advantage of putting the resonating part of the pipe behind the driver, instead of underneath it? I know the driver wouldn't fit as it is now, but that is a design choise.
It used to be common in these types of designs to have the closed part on the driver side, under it or covering it.
It seems it would force the sound to interact with the cavity and damp out highs and mids better, with no direct path to the mouth of the horn/resonator.
Does this setup have better efficiency?
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Old 12th March 2011, 03:34 PM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulwd View Post
GdK, they are looking good!

I'm looking at finishing mine in a gloss white / antique white. Also managed to source some 9mm marine ply for the front
Indeed they do.

Sounds like a plan. Here's another pair that have been done with that finish, albeit with a solid ash front baffle: Frugel-Horn Mk3
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Old 12th March 2011, 03:48 PM   #196
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Any developments on a 6" speaker model?
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Old 12th March 2011, 04:27 PM   #197
Squeak is offline Squeak  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squeak View Post
Could someone explain what the advantage of putting the resonating part of the pipe behind the driver, instead of underneath it? I know the driver wouldn't fit as it is now, but that is a design choice.
It used to be common in these types of designs to have the closed part on the driver side, under it or covering it.
It seems it would force the sound to interact with the cavity and damp out highs and mids better, with no direct path to the mouth of the horn/resonator.
Does this setup have better efficiency?
Yeah I know the whole line is resonating, let me just be causious and say the pointed, closed end.
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Old 12th March 2011, 04:33 PM   #198
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In the works, although when, where & how it will be released have yet to be determined.
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Old 12th March 2011, 04:40 PM   #199
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Great - Is this the right thread to listen for updates on the 6" model? Thanks.
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Old 12th March 2011, 05:25 PM   #200
jemraid is offline jemraid  United Kingdom
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Hi all,

I am posting this picture to show that having loads of power tools and cutting benches etc is not absolutely necessary. I believe that this Do It Yourself audio pastime should be available to anyone with sufficient interest and that people who are bit nervous about starting a speaker building project should be encouraged to do so. If as a result of this one other person decides to make a pair then I will be very happy

These are the tools I will be using to make my FH3's, my one concession to power is a 30 yr old jigsaw and for this project I have lashed out 2.99 for an angle thingy, the one in the middle with the orange handle.
Click the image to open in full size.


I am not and never have been a woodworker, I have made a few speakers and can use what I have learned from that to make these. What I have got is time and patience, patience to cut slowly and squarely, to plane the angles with my old Record plane and to practice first.

I have drawn the plan on all four sides, the tools are on one and you can see another resting against the window sill. My next task is to cut the front angles and the curves in the sides.

It's getting very enjoyable :-)

Warmest wishes - Jim
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FH3 build using very simple tools and a point to point Gain Clone with largish power supply. http://www.jasread.com/fh3/index.html
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