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Frugel-Horn Mk3 Builds & Build Questions
Frugel-Horn Mk3 Builds & Build Questions
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Old 20th November 2017, 05:38 PM   #1291
kwolff67 is offline kwolff67  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
We built a few with removable baffles, and I embedded M4 threaded inserts (not T-Nuts) in the enclosure, and counter sunk holes in the removable panels. We also extended them wider than the full 170mm, and added little return pieces to wrap around the sides.

Attached is PDF of my CAD drawing for the CNC patterns for these, as well as the first photo I could find in my files of an FH3 fitted with the SB - seen with MAOP7, and a prototype build of FHXL . If you're interested, there are a couple of kits of the supra-baffle parts for both FE126 and A7.3 available.
Thanks for the specs. I'm going to try doing them myself since I'm slightly more DIY oriented than I was back when I bought the flat pak 4 years ago. However, if I fail miserably it's nice to know you still have some for sale.

Do the wider baffles with wrap-arounds improve anything? If not, I'd like to keep the silouhette stock if possible and just go edge to edge with bevels on top and bottom.

Also, would it hurt to glue a permanent piece to the front middle/bottom to match up with the baffle (skipping bevels) and make the front completely flush?
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Old 20th November 2017, 05:51 PM   #1292
chrisb is offline chrisb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwolff67 View Post
Thanks for the specs. I'm going to try doing them myself since I'm slightly more DIY oriented than I was back when I bought the flat pak 4 years ago. However, if I fail miserably it's nice to know you still have some for sale.

Do the wider baffles with wrap-arounds improve anything? If not, I'd like to keep the silouhette stock if possible and just go edge to edge with bevels on top and bottom.
All imagineering aside, and absent any scrupulous acoustic measurement "proof" I can't honestly say they do.

Quote:
Also, would it hurt to glue a permanent piece to the front middle/bottom to match up with the baffle (skipping bevels) and make the front completely flush?
If you mean to hog out the driver opening to something like that shown in my sketch, and add another layer to the front to match the new driver plates, I can't see why not.
For the A7.3s, I'd suggest at least 15mm material (without extra bezel ring) - or 18mm if with.
Just be sure to chamfer the rear side of driver openings.
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Old 20th November 2017, 06:22 PM   #1293
kwolff67 is offline kwolff67  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
All imagineering aside, and absent any scrupulous acoustic measurement "proof" I can't honestly say they do.

If you mean to hog out the driver opening to something like that shown in my sketch, and add another layer to the front to match the new driver plates, I can't see why not.
For the A7.3s, I'd suggest at least 15mm material (without extra bezel ring) - or 18mm if with.
Just be sure to chamfer the rear side of driver openings.
Great, will do.
I will make the baffles to your spec using 15mm baltic birch (no Alpair bezel) but without the wings so that I can keep the beautiful simplicity of the look.

Then I will basically "veneer" the remaining 70% of the front surface area with 15mm BB (cut from same piece so the grain pattern matches) so that in the end the only difference in appearance is a small seam where the baffle and veneer meet and the recessed 4mm hex screws around the baffle which look kind of cool.
This also allows me to cover the plywood edges originally visible from the front which was the only cosmetic change I wanted to make to this speaker. Now I don't have to use iron-on veneer to cover the edges and can just stain the speakers.
Thanks.
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Old 23rd November 2017, 05:05 AM   #1294
sarathssca is offline sarathssca  India
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why is it recommended to have speaker driver flush mounted? is it to make the driver in level with the front baffle or is to push the driver deeper into the box?
Also different drivers have different (size) depth in the box and same 4 inch driver with bigger/deeper magnet cap, will be more close to the internal "V" piece. For bigger deeper drivers is it better not to flush mount so that they will have better gap from internal "V" piece.
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Old 23rd November 2017, 05:10 AM   #1295
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Frugel-Horn Mk3 Builds & Build Questions
Flush mounting is to reduce edge diffraction from the bezel edge.

While true that different drivers impead the line to greater or lessor extent it doesn’t seem to be a big deal. If you are worried, mount big magnet drivers (like A7x) on a supraBaffle.

dave
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Old 23rd November 2017, 05:16 AM   #1296
cspirou is offline cspirou  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarathssca View Post
why is it recommended to have speaker driver flush mounted? is it to make the driver in level with the front baffle or is to push the driver deeper into the box?
Also different drivers have different (size) depth in the box and same 4 inch driver with bigger/deeper magnet cap, will be more close to the internal "V" piece. For bigger deeper drivers is it better not to flush mount so that they will have better gap from internal "V" piece.
Here's some measurements from Troels on the difference between a flush mounted tweeter and one directly on the baffle.

Loudspeaker Measurements
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Old 29th November 2017, 05:49 PM   #1297
kwolff67 is offline kwolff67  United States
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Are the plans for the Stealth woofer still available? I'm mulling over keeping the fostex drivers for now instead of changing to A 7.3 and using the Stealths to get my FH3's out of the corners into more of a near/mid field setup.
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Old 29th November 2017, 07:04 PM   #1298
chrisb is offline chrisb
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The Stealth was a triangular prism shape, conveniently able to be sized small by using the CSS SDX7 woofer, of which we had a slew on hand and found best results with in small sealed boxes. Nothing really rocket science about the design, but finding an appropriate woofer that could be shoehorned into such an enclosure would take a bit of looking - it's the depth and diameter of magnet that limits the dimensions to which such a triangle can be reduced.

Based on pretty decent results with multiples of little Peerless 4" driver, there's probably no reason that approach wouldn't work.
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Old 29th November 2017, 07:09 PM   #1299
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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StelthWoofer plans: http://www.frugal-horn.com/downloads...0v8-200309.pdf

Do note that the SDX7 has been unavailable for some time. The new CSS is thinking of bringing it back. Write them and encouarge that.

dave
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Old 29th November 2017, 07:24 PM   #1300
chrisb is offline chrisb
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Note the profile of the SDX7 motor assembly as seen on the drawing was one of the keys to fitting them in this enclosure.
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