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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Dallas, Tx, USA
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I'm curious as to what's used to model and design a BVR cabinet for a particular driver. It's either that, a reflex/onken or a MLTL.
In this case, the driver is my single trusty Stephens Trusonic 206 AXA 15" coax. I was considering a corner cabinet, which naturally lends itself to BVR (Qts appears a bit high for true rear horn loading) T/S measured using a Dayton WT3 are D 317.5 [mm] Re 9.44 [Ohms] Fs 43.07 [Hz] Zm 163.30 [Ohms] BL 19.56 [N/A] Qms 7.009 Qes 0.430 Qts 0.405 Vas 186.700 [liters] L10k 0.89 [mH] n0 3.31 [%] dBSPL 97.30 [1W/1m] Ms 64.39 [grams] Cms 0.21 [mm/N] I have a licensed copy of Martin King's worksheets in case they can be used (perhaps the double mouth horn sheets??). Thanks
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"Any fool can know. The point is to understand" - Albert Einstein |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Zobsky. I always use horn response as you can set it like the big vents I
have seen here with the first small part of the vent parallel and then a short flare. Seems to need a bass reflex type box or maybe even slightly larger. There was a guy used to come to this site who modeled more horn shaped boxes, no parallel sides and had what appears to be a rule of thumb spreadsheet. He said he used about 10% larger than normal bass reflex cabinet. I supposed that if you modeled a reflex where the cabinet size needed a very long vent, this might work. jamikl |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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And yet the math implies something quite different to me.
GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Dallas, Tx, USA
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Details, please, GM ? EBP is around 100
Thanks
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"Any fool can know. The point is to understand" - Albert Einstein Last edited by zobsky; 27th August 2010 at 10:55 PM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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D.B Keele, Marshall Leach horn theory papers.
GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. Last edited by GM; 27th August 2010 at 11:41 PM. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Like GM, the math implies something rather different to me too...
As a general observation, don't get bogged down with EBP. It's so over-approximated as to be practically worthless & some of the basic assumptions often made with it can be downright misleading. Last edited by Scottmoose; 28th August 2010 at 08:52 AM. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Agreed, though I wouldn't call it worthless since without it I probably wouldn't have been able to 'crack the code' for coming up with my various 'Simple Simon' TL, horn calculators and wish there had been a similar one to account for their impact on vent design which for me is where MJK's and others calculators true worth lies. Before EBP, all my tower (MLTL), pipe horn designs were larger than required due to being derived from simple, 'worst case' design nomographs that dictated near IB size cabs for a low tuning.
Then again, in mine and some others opinions the larger cabs have a somewhat more effortless/life-like sound Vs the much more tightly constrained T/S alignments, so I guess the knowledge is a mixed blessing overall. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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I stand corrected, 'worthless' was a bit OTT of me.
I know what you mean about the boxes; whatever it is, the bigger options usually work for me. Last edited by Scottmoose; 28th August 2010 at 05:41 PM. |
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