Either of following 2 drivers work in this box?
A. TB W3-881SI (3" fullrange) with
Specifications: • Power handling: 15 watts RMS/30 watts max • VCdia: 3/4" • Impedance: 8 ohms • Re: 6.6 ohms • Frequency range: 100-20,000 Hz • Fs: 106 Hz • SPL: 84.5 dB 1W/1m • Vas: 0.05 cu. ft. • Qms: 7.17 • Qes: 0.96 • Qts: 0.85 • Xmax: 0.5 mm • Dimensions: Overall diameter: 3-3/16", Cutout diameter: 3", Depth: 2".
B. Pioneer A11EC80-02F 4-1/2", * Power handling: 20 watts RMS/30 watts max * Voice coil diameter: 1" * Impedance: 8 ohms * Frequency response: 70-15,000 Hz * Magnet weight: 9.3 oz. * Fs: 70 Hz * SPL: 90 dB 1W/1m * Vas: .31 cu. ft. * Xmax: 1.1mm * Qms: 1.40 * Qes: .47 * Qts: .35 *, available.
gychang
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Colin (Toppsy) would be my go to resource reference in your neighbourhood
Buying pre-veneered panels can be an excellent way of doing it. We use a big pneumatic press, and so its reality easy to press your own. Doing by hand is alot harder, we had to do a few panels with animal glue, and push sticks and its not easy. For edging boards, we use pva and an iron, this sets the glue of almost instantly.
I purchase all my veneer for furniture work from veneersonline on eBay. His buy it nows are often quite expensive however I have purchased some bargains on auction, I have bought a big bundle of American Black Walnut, some nice birds eye maple and some macassar ebony (hoping to use the latter in Betsy open baffle black and birds eye together)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Planetree-Burr-Wood-Veneer-3-Sheets-407-/290860921593?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item43b8a972f9
I purchase all my veneer for furniture work from veneersonline on eBay. His buy it nows are often quite expensive however I have purchased some bargains on auction, I have bought a big bundle of American Black Walnut, some nice birds eye maple and some macassar ebony (hoping to use the latter in Betsy open baffle black and birds eye together)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Planetree-Burr-Wood-Veneer-3-Sheets-407-/290860921593?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item43b8a972f9
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I buy all my veneers from Nantwich Veneers. But they usually only sell full bundles which contain 16 -20 consecutive cut full leaves. This makes it easy to book match panels. Buying this way works out far cheaper compared to any the prices I have seen on Ebay.
aquapiranha if you are anywhere near me and you want Oak I have both European and American White in stock that I can sell you some for a pair of FH3's.
Send me a email or PM if you're interested.
aquapiranha if you are anywhere near me and you want Oak I have both European and American White in stock that I can sell you some for a pair of FH3's.
Send me a email or PM if you're interested.
chrisb wrote
Yes I have used these in the past and it's known as Flexi-Veneer here in the UK.
Comes in 8' x 4' sheets and is the easiest of veneers to apply. However, as you point out one has to be very careful sanding this especially at corners or down the edges. The paper backing seems to be resin impregnated which means IMO this stuff can be successfully ironed on using the PVA glue method. That is apply white PVA glue to both the cabinet ply/MDF and also the paper backing side of the flexveneer. Let it dry and then iron it on.
The only downside for me with this type of veneer is it can look a little plastic like and you cannot bookmatch the panels as you can with consecutive cut leaves. It also costs about twice as much per m² as leave veneer. But for the novice perhaps the easiest to get a first time quality finish and it goes round corners a treat and doesn't heat shrink if using the iron on method.
You can also get ready glued veneer which you iron on. THis stuff is horrible. Cheap and nasty results in comparison the true unglued veneer. This stuff also has limited size availability. Some of the Oak, Cherry and Black Walnut veneer panels I have are 18" wide x 10' long (0.45m x 3.5m)
Yes I have used these in the past and it's known as Flexi-Veneer here in the UK.
Comes in 8' x 4' sheets and is the easiest of veneers to apply. However, as you point out one has to be very careful sanding this especially at corners or down the edges. The paper backing seems to be resin impregnated which means IMO this stuff can be successfully ironed on using the PVA glue method. That is apply white PVA glue to both the cabinet ply/MDF and also the paper backing side of the flexveneer. Let it dry and then iron it on.
The only downside for me with this type of veneer is it can look a little plastic like and you cannot bookmatch the panels as you can with consecutive cut leaves. It also costs about twice as much per m² as leave veneer. But for the novice perhaps the easiest to get a first time quality finish and it goes round corners a treat and doesn't heat shrink if using the iron on method.
You can also get ready glued veneer which you iron on. THis stuff is horrible. Cheap and nasty results in comparison the true unglued veneer. This stuff also has limited size availability. Some of the Oak, Cherry and Black Walnut veneer panels I have are 18" wide x 10' long (0.45m x 3.5m)
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- yup, I've been using the iron on method for at least 10years
- none of the unfinished veneers I've used could be described as plasticy, although that can certainly be achieved with some types of top coats (i.e. AudioNote E - which have gotta be seen in person to believe)
- being a lazy sunuvabeech, I'd rather spend a couple of hours on spraying a few coats of low sheen post catalyzed lacquer and avoid the future maintenance that oil & wax can require
- except for the engineered reconstituted types such as Macassar Ebony (Brookside over here), almost all species with narrow flitches (4-6") I've used are book-matched (which can cause some unexpected patterns if staining)
- not everyone will enjoy the benefit of trade materials pricing that I currently do; my most commonly used species (Maple, Cherry, American Black Walnut) run between $55 and $70 a sheet, but of course the exotics (Ribbon Grain Sapele, Bird's Eye Maple, Burls, etc) can run into the $150 & up
- of course at the end of the day, we'll each use materials and methods with which we've become comfortable, and some of us are too old and lazy to try something new
Cal - take a look at the grain figuring of the veneer - and my point in previous post that at least some sheet veneers are book-matched at the factory
yes, it can be a bit wasteful of material and laborious to achieve the degree of continuous, centered grain pattern matching on a pair of enclosures like those in Dave's photos, but sometimes the veneer just "speaks to you"
OK, I see it now. I was so enthralled by your continuum, that I didn't notice the bookmatching. Sorry Dave.
Thanks, I think
- they did turn out rather well - about 4sq ft of scrap left over from a single 4x8 sheet. The funnest part was not scalping the walnut (much thinner than say a Red Oak or even Cherry veneer) when trimming and sanding the Jatoba end caps on the separate uFonkens. All enclosures were wrapped as two pieces in the long direction- back first, then the remaining 5 sides in a single piece - the layout and and veneering took the best part of an 8hr day in the shop.
Sorry to Chris? No sir the only thing I am sorry about there is that I don't have the same skills as him.
I was sorry to you Dave when you posted pictures and had the question marks regarding the bookmatching. I corrected you when I shouldn't have because I was noticing only the fine veneer matching top to bottom and hadn't paid attention to the bookmatching that Chris then pointed out to me.
Got all that?
I was sorry to you Dave when you posted pictures and had the question marks regarding the bookmatching. I corrected you when I shouldn't have because I was noticing only the fine veneer matching top to bottom and hadn't paid attention to the bookmatching that Chris then pointed out to me.
Got all that?