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Old 13th February 2013, 03:26 PM   #951
Toppsy is offline Toppsy  United Kingdom
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chrisb wrote
Quote:
Colin - how about paperbacked products?
Yes I have used these in the past and it's known as Flexi-Veneer here in the UK.

Comes in 8' x 4' sheets and is the easiest of veneers to apply. However, as you point out one has to be very careful sanding this especially at corners or down the edges. The paper backing seems to be resin impregnated which means IMO this stuff can be successfully ironed on using the PVA glue method. That is apply white PVA glue to both the cabinet ply/MDF and also the paper backing side of the flexveneer. Let it dry and then iron it on.

The only downside for me with this type of veneer is it can look a little plastic like and you cannot bookmatch the panels as you can with consecutive cut leaves. It also costs about twice as much per m as leave veneer. But for the novice perhaps the easiest to get a first time quality finish and it goes round corners a treat and doesn't heat shrink if using the iron on method.

You can also get ready glued veneer which you iron on. THis stuff is horrible. Cheap and nasty results in comparison the true unglued veneer. This stuff also has limited size availability. Some of the Oak, Cherry and Black Walnut veneer panels I have are 18" wide x 10' long (0.45m x 3.5m)

Last edited by Toppsy; 13th February 2013 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 13th February 2013, 03:52 PM   #952
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toppsy View Post

Yes I have used these in the past and it's known as Flexi-Veneer here in the UK.

Comes in 8' x 4' sheets and is the easiest of veneers to apply. However, as you point out one has to be very careful sanding this especially at corners or down the edges. The paper backing seems to be resin impregnated which means IMO this stuff can be successfully ironed on using the PVA glue method. That is apply white PVA glue to both the cabinet ply/MDF and also the paper backing side of the flexveneer. Let it dry and then iron it on.

The only downside for me with this type of veneer is it can look a little plastic like and you cannot bookmatch the panels as you can with consecutive cut leaves. It also costs about twice as much per m as leave veneer. But for the novice perhaps the easiest to get a first time quality finish and it goes round corners a treat and doesn't heat shrink if using the iron on method.

- yup, I've been using the iron on method for at least 10years
- none of the unfinished veneers I've used could be described as plasticy, although that can certainly be achieved with some types of top coats (i.e. AudioNote E - which have gotta be seen in person to believe)
- being a lazy sunuvabeech, I'd rather spend a couple of hours on spraying a few coats of low sheen post catalyzed lacquer and avoid the future maintenance that oil & wax can require
- except for the engineered reconstituted types such as Macassar Ebony (Brookside over here), almost all species with narrow flitches (4-6") I've used are book-matched (which can cause some unexpected patterns if staining)
- not everyone will enjoy the benefit of trade materials pricing that I currently do; my most commonly used species (Maple, Cherry, American Black Walnut) run between $55 and $70 a sheet, but of course the exotics (Ribbon Grain Sapele, Bird's Eye Maple, Burls, etc) can run into the $150 & up

- of course at the end of the day, we'll each use materials and methods with which we've become comfortable, and some of us are too old and lazy to try something new
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Old 13th February 2013, 03:54 PM   #953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toppsy View Post
.... you cannot bookmatch the panels...
???

Click the image to open in full size.

dave
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Old 13th February 2013, 04:09 PM   #954
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Keep in mind guys that Colin, like myself, is based in the UK, and availability of many materials is not what it is in the North Americas. Not without a lot of hunting, and a large price premium anyway.
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Old 13th February 2013, 04:15 PM   #955
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Dave, what you are showing is a continuum. Bookmatching involves flipping the veneer over to get a mirror image.
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Old 13th February 2013, 04:53 PM   #956
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Weldon View Post
Dave, what you are showing is a continuum. Bookmatching involves flipping the veneer over to get a mirror image.

Cal - take a look at the grain figuring of the veneer - and my point in previous post that at least some sheet veneers are book-matched at the factory

yes, it can be a bit wasteful of material and laborious to achieve the degree of continuous, centered grain pattern matching on a pair of enclosures like those in Dave's photos, but sometimes the veneer just "speaks to you"
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Old 13th February 2013, 06:59 PM   #957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
Cal - take a look at the grain figuring of the veneer -
OK, I see it now. I was so enthralled by your continuum, that I didn't notice the bookmatching. Sorry Dave.
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Old 13th February 2013, 07:08 PM   #958
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by Cal Weldon View Post
OK, I see it now. I was so enthralled at your continuum, that I didn't nice the bookmatching. Sorry Dave.

Thanks, I think - they did turn out rather well - about 4sq ft of scrap left over from a single 4x8 sheet. The funnest part was not scalping the walnut (much thinner than say a Red Oak or even Cherry veneer) when trimming and sanding the Jatoba end caps on the separate uFonkens. All enclosures were wrapped as two pieces in the long direction- back first, then the remaining 5 sides in a single piece - the layout and and veneering took the best part of an 8hr day in the shop.
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Old 13th February 2013, 07:30 PM   #959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Weldon View Post
Sorry Dave.
You mean sorry Chris

I just posted the picture.

dave
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Old 13th February 2013, 08:28 PM   #960
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Sorry to Chris? No sir the only thing I am sorry about there is that I don't have the same skills as him.

I was sorry to you Dave when you posted pictures and had the question marks regarding the bookmatching. I corrected you when I shouldn't have because I was noticing only the fine veneer matching top to bottom and hadn't paid attention to the bookmatching that Chris then pointed out to me.

Got all that?
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