in the trade vernacular (we all have them
) High Density can refer to both high ply count per thickness, and denser material per ply core - i.e birch is denser than merantiMDF with 2 faces of veneer is technically a plywood, and there have been numerous variations on combination cores ( veneer & PB or MDF cross plies)
Density test
the first 2 mono fast boxes we will be building will be walnut and goncalo alves, walnut has a average weight of 38lb per sq ft and GA an average of 60-65 lb per sq ft, a significant difference in density between the 2, we will post our impressions when complete
Also 1 in quartered white oak, a close relative to European oak/french oak/english oak, not sure the difference except wher they grow
the first 2 mono fast boxes we will be building will be walnut and goncalo alves, walnut has a average weight of 38lb per sq ft and GA an average of 60-65 lb per sq ft, a significant difference in density between the 2, we will post our impressions when complete
Also 1 in quartered white oak, a close relative to European oak/french oak/english oak, not sure the difference except wher they grow
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They sat in my main system for a couple weeks and were deemed good. The 2-way did good image/soundstage (bit not up to the best FRs), excellent, tight, tunefull bass.
Should make some really good 1.5 ways.
I was able to get them backclose enuff to the wall, so that my wife did not object (Mashowe & Victor blocked the TV from the dininf eoom rable)
They are now set aside form the next audutuiner.
Guess i should clean-up andpost the plans.
For valentine's here is a pic of them kissing...
dave
Attachments
No not two weeks.Der Auftrag wird in den kommenden 10-25 Tagen gefertigt und sofort an Sie versendet
10-25 days, but anyway he makesallways a good job.
Did someone use an crossover. and what´s about damping? In my other Fostex Horn, I never use a crossover the 168er plays well without one.
sorry but i didn´t found any post.
Apologies for a basic question.
The FH3 is rated from 40hz and up. And I read about corner loading.
So does this mean:
1. The FH3 is ideally placed in the corner of rooms?
2. And if so, how far from the back wall and side of the room walls?
3. And in this configuration, is it really pretty flat down to 40hz, or is the extension to 40hz really more of a much reduced db such as -10db but present?
4. Would this work ideally in a room that's 11 by 13 1/2 feet?
Thanks!
UL
The FH3 is rated from 40hz and up. And I read about corner loading.
So does this mean:
1. The FH3 is ideally placed in the corner of rooms?
2. And if so, how far from the back wall and side of the room walls?
3. And in this configuration, is it really pretty flat down to 40hz, or is the extension to 40hz really more of a much reduced db such as -10db but present?
4. Would this work ideally in a room that's 11 by 13 1/2 feet?
Thanks!
UL
The FE126 is the only driver that really wouldlike a corner.Most other drivers wouldneedtobe heavily dampedtonothavetoomuch bottom (not abad thing), but with less damping can be out from the corner.
At least a wallisnice forsmoothness, but at the diyFEST where they were 1st demoed, A7 with FE126 daming still had too much bottom (big round & meaty, some might like that) even with the backof the speaker 3 ftout from the wall.
Actual response down low is really dominated by the room. That the box can have bass tuned with damping below the driver means that there is room to tune it for awide range of drivers & rooms.
In a room assmallasyoursyou aelikely tohave them backnear the wall -- placing them at an angleis good if close in. I push them as close as i can back against the wall with a full-height deflector in-between.
dave
At least a wallisnice forsmoothness, but at the diyFEST where they were 1st demoed, A7 with FE126 daming still had too much bottom (big round & meaty, some might like that) even with the backof the speaker 3 ftout from the wall.
Actual response down low is really dominated by the room. That the box can have bass tuned with damping below the driver means that there is room to tune it for awide range of drivers & rooms.
In a room assmallasyoursyou aelikely tohave them backnear the wall -- placing them at an angleis good if close in. I push them as close as i can back against the wall with a full-height deflector in-between.
dave
to expand a bit on Dave's reply;
FH3 was originally intended to accommodate a range of drivers in the 4" class, although some have adventured up to nominal 6" units (very tight squeeze) - so the LF extension achieved will depend on the chosen driver. Of the kits sold by P10, the majority have been with FE126E and Alpair7 (Dave would have figures for ratios).
Of those 2, the Alpair would definitely dig deeper and not require corner reinforcement, while the FE126E certainly benefits from it, particularly in larger rooms- which would not be a problem in your case.
My personal pair of FH3 are with Mark Audio MAOP7 - while they don't go quite as deep or loud as the Alpair10P in the larger FHXL in my 320sq ft room, they are certainly no slouch. I've never been inspired enough to acquire any measurement kit beyond the freeware RTA app for my phone, so I have no objective data as to their actual in room response, but electric and stand up bass players such as Victor Wooten, Stanley Clarke, Mark Arnopol, Tim Landers, etc don't suffer anemia at listening levels around 85-90 dB (as loud as I normally go - well maybe broaching 95 with the Loreena McKennit 13pc concert band)
I rotate them with a range of other enclosures under test in my downstairs system, so they get moved a lot and placement isn't marked out on the floor, but they're usually around 12" from the back wall with between 10-12dg of angle.
As Dave notes, we've fashioned some 90dg deflectors to place immediately behind the FHs for cases where corners aren't available or floorspace required as close to the back wall as possible without toe-in.
FH3 was originally intended to accommodate a range of drivers in the 4" class, although some have adventured up to nominal 6" units (very tight squeeze) - so the LF extension achieved will depend on the chosen driver. Of the kits sold by P10, the majority have been with FE126E and Alpair7 (Dave would have figures for ratios).
Of those 2, the Alpair would definitely dig deeper and not require corner reinforcement, while the FE126E certainly benefits from it, particularly in larger rooms- which would not be a problem in your case.
My personal pair of FH3 are with Mark Audio MAOP7 - while they don't go quite as deep or loud as the Alpair10P in the larger FHXL in my 320sq ft room, they are certainly no slouch. I've never been inspired enough to acquire any measurement kit beyond the freeware RTA app for my phone, so I have no objective data as to their actual in room response, but electric and stand up bass players such as Victor Wooten, Stanley Clarke, Mark Arnopol, Tim Landers, etc don't suffer anemia at listening levels around 85-90 dB (as loud as I normally go - well maybe broaching 95 with the Loreena McKennit 13pc concert band)
I rotate them with a range of other enclosures under test in my downstairs system, so they get moved a lot and placement isn't marked out on the floor, but they're usually around 12" from the back wall with between 10-12dg of angle.
As Dave notes, we've fashioned some 90dg deflectors to place immediately behind the FHs for cases where corners aren't available or floorspace required as close to the back wall as possible without toe-in.
It varies batch-to-batch but these 2 are neck & neck, with a smattering of EL70 & FF125 (& 1 for FE108eS). Surprisingly few sets with removable supra baffles, and only one with multiple supra-baffles.
FE126 for those with flea wayy amps, A7 for those with more juice.
dave
Hello guys im quite new to DIy speaker building although i made a nice pair of open baffles with bastanis drivers which where superb if ruthlessly revealing. i really would like to make a pair of these FH's Im a bit confused to which drivers would suit me. I have a Musicarch 300b se which is hand made by musicarch hi fi in scotland it is about 10watts per side but has huge over specced trannies so marches along very well. Im currently using Audionote AN-e Kit 1 and they sound great, need to scratch the horn itch though so any advice would be great, been reading through and seems a lot of different views. My room is 15' x 15' and the speakers cannot go into the corners they will sit about 3' out and about 1 to 2' from rear wall. I like all sorts of music but nothing heavy, jazz, female focalists and accustic gets the nod but i have a vast range of music of all genres i like to troll through. I like a nice clean clear top end and a nice tight but low bottom end. Anyy suggestions on the driver best suited please?
Hello Falcoron,
They are available from Breitbandlautsprecher und mehr - SpectrumAudio Wolfgang who runs the shop speaks very good English and is a very nice bloke.
Cheers - Jim
They are available from Breitbandlautsprecher und mehr - SpectrumAudio Wolfgang who runs the shop speaks very good English and is a very nice bloke.
Cheers - Jim
Thanks guys i'll get a look, cant decide if these or bastanis little bighorns are on the build next
Almost finished with my latest build- FH3 with A7.3. I ordered some black laminate for the top and front that should be here Friday. I might add a small filter to smooth out the mid/upper range of sound. There's a tad bit of harshness to these. Kind of surprised by that. I didn't notice it when I played them in the rough unfinished cabinets. However, since there was nothing else I could do with these, I had to give them a listen. Other than the issue with a filter, they sound fantastic. If I close my eyes and listen, I can almost see the different instruments playing in different parts of the room. Imaging/soundstage is phenomenal!
