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#511 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: California
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Quote:
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Intel D410 mITX > Foobar > Musiland 01 USD > Gigawork DAC > Crown XLS1000 > Manzanita Ultra |
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#512 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: the leafy west of Brisbane
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Quote:
The WR125ST is a "kissin' cousin" to the FR - a bit more bass and a bit less treble, but with basically the same Sd. Otherwise the TS parameters are similar. It seems to me that by using two (2) drivers you can certainly increase the SPL. Using two identical WR125ST drivers will not require changes in the cabinet's profile geometry (taper, driver location, choke width, etc.), but the increase in cone area will require an increase in cross-section, so what we could do is increase the width of the cabinet. Guessing perhaps x1.8 (say). Logic: Twice the area of cone pushes twice the volume of air, so increase the x-sectional area by two. "Combing" is the cry heard from the sages in the wings. Well, because the WR125ST has a truncated frame, they can be mounted flat to flat, minimising the centre to centre distance, and therefore raising the frequency before onset of significant combing. Bringing the MiniDSP into play could also assist by offloading all of the frequencies above the combing limit to one driver, with those frequencies EQ'd upwards to match the combined bass output of both drivers. A supertweeter could be used if considered necessary. You may get away without one. Comments anyone? cheers Doug
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A speaker-builder's parable: "That burned down, fell over, then sank into the swamp. But the fourth one stayed up. And that's what you're going to get, Lad, the strongest castle of all." |
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#513 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Brisso: Dual drivers might be an option, but it's been my experience that the FR/WR 125 fraternal twins are better suited to smaller sealed or highly resistive / aperiodic enclosure loads than the FH3 would provide.
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#514 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: California
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Chris, what's your thoughts on a single FR125 in the Mk3? I'm tempted to get a pair... hmm...
__________________
Intel D410 mITX > Foobar > Musiland 01 USD > Gigawork DAC > Crown XLS1000 > Manzanita Ultra |
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#515 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Well it would certainly work, but having heard them flatulate in other vented designs ( bipole MLTL), I'd be concerned about excursion limits. For this enclosure, I'd be far more inclined to recommend the EL70 / CHP70, which I've yet to get to misbehave in the dual driver Castle microtower, or Fostex FE126En. Just thinking about it, the new Alpair6P could be another candidate for dual drivers in the FH3.
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#516 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: California
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Thanks Chris.
__________________
Intel D410 mITX > Foobar > Musiland 01 USD > Gigawork DAC > Crown XLS1000 > Manzanita Ultra |
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#517 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
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Greetings, my first post here.
A friend of mine and I am building two pairs of MK3s. One with FE126en (his) and another one with C7 (mine). I currently drive a pair of Rega RS3 speakers (89 dB) with Odyssey Khartago (110W/channel @8ohms) and I want to build a tube amp to drive the C7. What kind of power would you recommend given that C7 is 85dB? Room, rather kitchen with horrible acoustics, is 15 ft by 30 ft. Any DIY kit tube amp recommendations? Regards Levent |
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#518 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
pardon the senior's moment, but what driver is the C7? As for tube amps, provided you're not looking for concert level SPLs in a kitchen and you think 15W or so would suffice, I can heartily recommend Tubelab SimplePP. Not a full kit, in that George can supply the board and small parts, but you need to supply iron, tubes and build the chassis. After a few teething problems, I'm quite loving mine. Another option in a full kit would be the Triode Electronics Dyna ST35 kit, complete with their replica Dyna power and OPTs, and very nice chassis.
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#519 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Home of The Fighting Gamecocks
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I've built two pair of Mk3's using the 126En in 18 mm MDF cabinets. I'm thinking of trying the CHR-70 in one pair but have the following questions:
1. Is the CHR-70 a direct drop in replacement for the 126En and will it cover the holes drilled for the 126En? 2. The 126En Mk3's sound wonderful with my new 2a3 amp but will it's 6 watts be enough for the CHR-70's playing small group jazz at low to moderate levels in a 15X15 room? Thanks in advance for your input. |
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#520 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
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