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Old 28th March 2011, 09:59 PM   #481
ra7 is offline ra7  United States
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Thanks Scott!

Yes, the part about it being more forgiving of different drivers is important.

With my voigt (no 'h' ) pipe, the detachble baffles aren't larger than the front baffle. That cabinet has taken plenty of abuse (just ask Josh) and I'm looking to make this aspect a little more elegant for the FH3.
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Old 28th March 2011, 10:35 PM   #482
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No problem. I'm not the person to talk to about elegant building though, you don't want to know how bad I am at it.

Scott

Last edited by Scottmoose; 28th March 2011 at 10:54 PM.
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Old 30th March 2011, 08:29 PM   #483
mightym is offline mightym  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Brines View Post
I will admit that I am way out of my element, but I would think that anything stuck in a corner will get some degree of horn loading. One of the things I want to try is a corner loaded woofer in a box that simply constitutes the back chamber. In other words a front loaded horn.

Bob
With tongue firmly in cheek, Bob. Wasn't that what your neighbor P.W.Klipsch did lo those many years ago? Sort of.......

John
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Old 31st March 2011, 08:23 AM   #484
jemraid is offline jemraid  United Kingdom
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Hi all,

After reading posts 473 onwards, and hearing a couple of pairs of FH3's. My personal opinion is though the box may not be strictly a horn it certainly has that 'easiness' about it, in abundance.

When coupled with the Mark Audio CHP-70 the sound is lifted from something ordinary [sorry Fostex!] into another realm of audio experience.

Thats just my personal opinion though :-) Those with a sneaky suspicion that I might be right can audition mine, see the list.

Regards - Jim
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FH3 build using very simple tools and a point to point Gain Clone with largish power supply. http://www.jasread.com/fh3/index.html
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Old 31st March 2011, 09:48 AM   #485
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Hi guys,
i'm going to build a pair of FH3 with Fostex 126en.
are there substantial differences using woods by 15 or 18mm?

thanks
Giuseppe
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Old 31st March 2011, 12:59 PM   #486
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Void free plywood is not easy to find at the big box stores here in the States. I went with the cheaper 3/4 inch (19mm) MDF and am pleased with the outcome. Using MDF does result in some heavy arsed cabinets.
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Old 31st March 2011, 01:06 PM   #487
kec is offline kec  United States
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Just curious, what are you guys paying for baltic birch plywood? 15mm and 18mm

I get my 18mm for $32 USD (5'x5')
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Old 31st March 2011, 01:06 PM   #488
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i'll use birch plywood

15mm ( cutted according to the project) 96
18mm ( cutted according to the project) 126

Last edited by Merkutio; 31st March 2011 at 01:10 PM.
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Old 31st March 2011, 02:53 PM   #489
Squeak is offline Squeak  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merkutio View Post
Hi guys,
i'm going to build a pair of FH3 with Fostex 126en.
are there substantial differences using woods by 15 or 18mm?

thanks
Giuseppe
If you are going to flushmount a driver 15 ply is probably to thin. But with a FE 126 you are probably not.
If you are talking MDF on the other hand 15 mm is to thin for anything but very small enclosures.
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Old 31st March 2011, 03:09 PM   #490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merkutio View Post
i'll use birch plywood

15mm ( cutted according to the project) 96
18mm ( cutted according to the project) 126
Baltic birch ply is best and available in the EU ... I would use the 18mm (cabinets will be heavy). You can also tapper the 'inside' of the driver hole with a router for better fit and sound. Birch ply looks good when stained & polished.
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