Moderator note: Two threads have been merged into one. The second starts at post 66.
Hi, this is my first post and hope someone can help me.
I’ve recently bought a pair of Chinese/Taiwan 4” dual cone speakers (with neodymium magnets) with nothing else to go on than “they looked nice” and one person’s opinion that they compare favourably with his own Lowthers but apparently “without the Lowther shout”.
I have very little mathematical knowledge/experience of acoustics or speaker design but have a certain amount of mechanical intuition and a decently equipped workshop. I have built valve amplifiers and speakers with and without plans so I have some experience in building stuff but wanted a more scientific ground up approach to this build. Gut trembling bass extension isn’t a priority but good low mids to sparkling treble together with realism & placement with a flat response are.
I had considered a Voight pipe for ease of build and efficiency but the comb filtering effect is a big concern. I had thought of adding a rear facing speaker wired out of phase and maybe of a different size and at a different height to the main speaker to iron out this comb effect. I also thought of wiring this other speaker on an L pad to adjust it’s effect. But this is all based on intuition and a product of my fevered imagination with only the lightest grasp on whether it would work or not.
I have attached a photo of the apparent specs and the speakers themselves. There is a name blurred out on the specs, as they are supposedly debadged speakers from a well-known manufacturer.
Hope someone can point me in the right direction.
Hi, this is my first post and hope someone can help me.
I’ve recently bought a pair of Chinese/Taiwan 4” dual cone speakers (with neodymium magnets) with nothing else to go on than “they looked nice” and one person’s opinion that they compare favourably with his own Lowthers but apparently “without the Lowther shout”.
I have very little mathematical knowledge/experience of acoustics or speaker design but have a certain amount of mechanical intuition and a decently equipped workshop. I have built valve amplifiers and speakers with and without plans so I have some experience in building stuff but wanted a more scientific ground up approach to this build. Gut trembling bass extension isn’t a priority but good low mids to sparkling treble together with realism & placement with a flat response are.
I had considered a Voight pipe for ease of build and efficiency but the comb filtering effect is a big concern. I had thought of adding a rear facing speaker wired out of phase and maybe of a different size and at a different height to the main speaker to iron out this comb effect. I also thought of wiring this other speaker on an L pad to adjust it’s effect. But this is all based on intuition and a product of my fevered imagination with only the lightest grasp on whether it would work or not.
I have attached a photo of the apparent specs and the speakers themselves. There is a name blurred out on the specs, as they are supposedly debadged speakers from a well-known manufacturer.
Hope someone can point me in the right direction.
Attachments
Nah, it's likely overstock that someone bought up from a production run at the Guide Sound OEM factory.
You don't want to be wiring two drivers sharing a volume out of phase, whatever the box type you settle on; you'll end up with no output at all. As one moves out, the other moves in & therefore there is no air displacement. I'll see if I can figure something when I get a minute.
You don't want to be wiring two drivers sharing a volume out of phase, whatever the box type you settle on; you'll end up with no output at all. As one moves out, the other moves in & therefore there is no air displacement. I'll see if I can figure something when I get a minute.
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I bought a pair of these recently and I have mounted each in a sealed cabinet, about 5litre. Initial impression is very good. They are beautifully made just like the image on Ebay.
I will post the FR and an image of my cabinet once I get the sound to settle down and made some measurements. They are worth the money go and buy them. BTW I am not associated with the company in anyway. Cheers
I will post the FR and an image of my cabinet once I get the sound to settle down and made some measurements. They are worth the money go and buy them. BTW I am not associated with the company in anyway. Cheers
they are cute, aren't they? is there a link to ebay?
phase plug and specs are from guide-sound, which is the unit maker for audionirvana and others, Scott is right (is it a surprise??).
seem like a good candidate for mid-highs OB, still the little 3" on the AN site withouth the wizzher looks more intriguing to me.
phase plug and specs are from guide-sound, which is the unit maker for audionirvana and others, Scott is right (is it a surprise??).
seem like a good candidate for mid-highs OB, still the little 3" on the AN site withouth the wizzher looks more intriguing to me.
It's been known (but not often).
Anyway, yeah, Guide-Sound units, not TBs. Pretty little things (as drive units go), though if I'm honest, I think the engineering's dodgy / pandering to fashion. A 4in driver should not require a whizzer, and I'm not much of a fan of neodymium motors either, other than for tweeters.
Assuming the factory data is accurate, you could try this small MLTL. 30in long, CSA 27.5625in^2. Driver centre 3in down from top. Vent close to bottom as possible on the front baffle, 2in diameter x 2.5in long. Line top, back & one side-wall 10in down & adjust to taste. Excursion's a bit high, but short of doubling up or going to something more complicated, which I don't have time to design, there isn't much that can be done about that.
Anyway, yeah, Guide-Sound units, not TBs. Pretty little things (as drive units go), though if I'm honest, I think the engineering's dodgy / pandering to fashion. A 4in driver should not require a whizzer, and I'm not much of a fan of neodymium motors either, other than for tweeters.
Assuming the factory data is accurate, you could try this small MLTL. 30in long, CSA 27.5625in^2. Driver centre 3in down from top. Vent close to bottom as possible on the front baffle, 2in diameter x 2.5in long. Line top, back & one side-wall 10in down & adjust to taste. Excursion's a bit high, but short of doubling up or going to something more complicated, which I don't have time to design, there isn't much that can be done about that.
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I build these drivers in a small cabinet because I want use them as a near field monitor coupled with a sub-woofer. For such a small speakers they throw a large sound stage when compared with my Open baffle speakers, that says a lot about the drivers. At this early stage(<10hrs usage) the treble needs to be tamed, I think it will settle down a little after more hours of usage. I prefer them to my FE167 Fostex.
The cabinet dimensions are 14cm*23cm*21cm(w*H*D), I use a wool fibre for damping
The cabinet dimensions are 14cm*23cm*21cm(w*H*D), I use a wool fibre for damping
Try this site, that where I bought mine.
davidlouis1983 items - Get great deals on Consumer Electronics items on eBay UK!
davidlouis1983 items - Get great deals on Consumer Electronics items on eBay UK!
I got mine from the same place that ttan98 did. Thanks ttan98 for the details of your speakers. Has anyone got any thoughts or ideas about putting a pair in a Fonken cabinet? I quite like the look of those. I wouldn't have any idea of how to calculate the dimensions bearing in mind the specific parameters of these Chinese speakers. Would Fonkens be something to consider?
Going by the factory spec., I'd say borderline. Incidentally, I'd be rather careful of assuming the factory specs. are accurate too; there's a glaring inconsistancy between Vas & B*L for example. If the Vas figure is right, then B*L must be rather lower than stated, & visa versa. Generally speaking, I'd be inclined to suspect the B*L figure as being the more accurate as it's easier to measure. What that says about the rest of the figures though is anyones guess. The Audio Nirvanas, which AFAIK are out of the same factory, have often had T/S specs. well away from the published data sheets, so YMMV.
Anyway, Dave can speak best for the Fonken loads; a modified version of the prime might (might) do OK. As they're limited availability etc., I'm not sure it'd be worth doing a dedicated design. Dave?
A ~7 3/4 litre sealed box would give you a nice 0.707 Qtc alignment with a 52Hz F10 based on the factory specs (with Vas adjusted).
Anyway, Dave can speak best for the Fonken loads; a modified version of the prime might (might) do OK. As they're limited availability etc., I'm not sure it'd be worth doing a dedicated design. Dave?
A ~7 3/4 litre sealed box would give you a nice 0.707 Qtc alignment with a 52Hz F10 based on the factory specs (with Vas adjusted).
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It will work OK if the factory numbers are close.
See the attachment for required adjustments to the vents.
dave
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