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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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Hello, would someone be so kind as to tell me how to properly pad / line my uFonkens with the padding? The plans just say line, and if I line all the sides, top , bottom and brace, the box gets really small! also, am I supposed to cover the holes in my brace?
thanks! |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
I trust you're applying the material before assembly Line all perimeter interior surfaces, including the "shelf" that forms the upper wall of port slot, but keep material from occluding the internal slot aperture. In other words, run it short on the back panel and slot shelf by at least 1/2". I'm not sure what you're using, but now's a great time to recommend a product that Bob Reimer from CSS found : Creative Sound - Product Details This stuff is a dream to work with- easily cut with sewing shears, doesn't shred or shed, the bonded backing glues to cabinet panels with white wood glue. We've been using this for at least 6 months now, and it works like a charm, particularly in smaller boxes. As for the driver brace, in a box as small as the uFonken, I'd probably not bother.
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#3 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Thanx Chris.
This build is from a flat-pak and he has the blue denim cotton felt. The main issue seems to be that his pdf reader is having rouble accessing page 2 & 3 of the documentation which diagrams the damping and illustrates the specific dimensions and cut plans for the strips of cotton felt supplied. Nukaidee is really moving on these, i mailed the flat-pak Friday and he has them half built already dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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its not really related to padding, but i'm just finishing up the build part, and I test fitted the drivers and noticed they were a few mm off the brace, about the thickness of a key, what should i be using to add to the thickness?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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I've used those self sticking pads (from Home Depot) that people put on the bottom of legs of furniture to stop them scratching the floor - to fill any gaps between speaker and brace if the construction needs it.
__________________
"The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." Robert M Pirsig. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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should i use the harder rubber ones or the really soft and squishy?
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#8 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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A piece of thick paper (or 2), a sliver of wood. If you use rubber, it should be fairly stiff, a minimum of the closed cel neoprene foam gasket material (weather stripping).
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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yep, you don't want soft and squishy.
__________________
"The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." Robert M Pirsig. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
please send me a PM
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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