New Saburo Build thread

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Greetings, again, fellow builders,

Inspired by Dave the Bass, and emboldened by my success with Zigmahornets, I've begun the Saburos I said I was gonna do back on Dave's thread.

I'm persuaded by the wisdom of drawing out the plans, life sized, on one side of each speaker before cutting any of the internal pieces to size.

I'm up against a measurement problem with determining the size of the deflector bits (Def.1 to Def.6).

Estimate #1
One rough and ready idea I had was carefully measure a print out of the plans, and extrapolate what it should be in actual units.

Estimate #2
I tried to cross reference these estimates by measuring the angle of the diagonal red-broken line on the plan that traces the slope of the deflector.

I reproduced that (157.5, more or less, degree angle) line on my speaker panel, and drew in the deflector pieces -- they don't correspond to the measurements taken as described for Estimate #1, above.

Any advice here?

Does anyone have actual measurement values?

Thank you.

Brenton
 
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frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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66 degrees

dave
 

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YOU just drew that in! Was that there before?

Thanks Dave, I was pretty close on that angle ( I was measuring from the speaker top, rather than the back, as you have it shown ).

One thing I have to say, incase Im not the only one to tumble to this late in life:

Use a table saw!

I mangled some perfectly good pieces of wood. Gave up. Went to Kijiji, and got a very sollid table saw used for $100!
 
YOU just drew that in! Was that there before?

Thanks Dave, I was pretty close on that angle ( I was measuring from the speaker top, rather than the back, as you have it shown ).

One thing I have to say, incase Im not the only one to tumble to this late in life:

Use a table saw!

I mangled some perfectly good pieces of wood. Gave up. Went to Kijiji, and got a very sollid table saw used for $100!


Don't be surprised if you need to spend close to that on a decent blade
the a decent 8" 60 Tooth ATB carbide blade ( Freud, etc) will likely set you back $60 - $80, and will pay for itself the first time you crosscut a piece of veneered faced plywood /MDF or PB core
 
Good advice, Chris. Now that I'm getting together a good collection of tools, what's a fellow to do, but ... start thinking about another build after this one!

I gotta say that during the Zigma build, I was mostly anxious the whole time, but this time? This is really fun!

And Dave, it absolutely helps that you have this handy, and that you never seem far away from the forum. Helps me, for sure!

Back to the garage with me.
 
Update.

I'll try and post a picture later.

All the internal bits are cut and pasted, carpet backing for dampening is glued and/or velcro-ed into place. Binding posts with internal speaker wiring installed.

I'm just about ready to slap on the final side panel. Here's the thing what's buggin me about that.

Try, as I did, to make precise cuts with the table saw, it wasn't perfect. I've had to plane down some of the internal pieces to make them level with the front and back panels of the cabinet.

I'm a little concerned they won't all make a tight fit to the side of the speaker yet to be installed.

Should I use some of this thick silicone glue on the edges of the speaker internal panels? That would certainly ensure any gaps are filled. Is this a no no?

Maybe it doesn't really matter if there are small gaps.

Thanks....
 
As someone suggested on here at some point - get some of those self-adhesive foam strips that are used to seal doorframes and the like. That way, you can remove the panel to play with stuffing etc. The foam seals come off easily enough, so when you're happy, you can glue the panel on for a more permanent fastening. I tend to use plenty of PVA when I'm doing this, but I've recently found out that normal silicon sticks things down well if there's plenty of it.
 
Dry fit the side panel several times before you try to glue. Use a 4' aluminum level and run it along the cabinet. You're looking for high spots that you might be able to sand down a little before you attach the side. If you spot any really bad low spots, you might be able to fill them in somehow?

Use lots of clamps. You can never have too many clamps. This little cabinet is less than 40" tall, yet the builder used ten clamps on it. I wish I had ten clamps. You'd be surprised how much of a gap you can press out with a well placed clamp. Did I mention you can never have too many clamps?

th_mk2_b.jpg

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Buschhorn/mk2_b.jpg

You might want to look at one of those polyurethane adhesives, such as Gorilla Glue. They expand while setting, filling small gaps. I haven't tried it myself. Doing some quick searching, it appears the polyurethane glues might have a longer working time than yellow glues. I need all the time I can get to spread the glue and align the side panel. On a large cabinet like the Saburo, I'd think a glue with a long working time would be highly desirable.

Good luck. Post some photos for us, would ya? ;)
 
Try, as I did, to make precise cuts with the table saw, it wasn't perfect. I've had to plane down some of the internal pieces to make them level with the front and back panels of the cabinet.

I'm a little concerned they won't all make a tight fit to the side of the speaker yet to be installed. Should I use some of this thick silicone glue on the edges of the speaker internal panels? That would certainly ensure any gaps are filled. Is this a no no?

Follow the fitting advice Ty mentions. Something like no more nails is OK at filling small gaps (within reason -these things are relative). However, you really, really want to get things as level as they possibly can be. In the long run, it'll pay dividends, even if it takes a day or two of dry-fitting, flattening things out, & repeating. These are not small or cheap boxes to build, so don't risk spoiling it for the sake of a few hours sanding.

Maybe it doesn't really matter if there are small gaps.

It does. It makes a massive difference. You have any leak-paths, you'll cripple the box performance.

As someone suggested on here at some point - get some of those self-adhesive foam strips that are used to seal doorframes and the like. That way, you can remove the panel to play with stuffing etc. The foam seals come off easily enough, so when you're happy, you can glue the panel on for a more permanent fastening.

Er, no. Not for a pair of extremely heavy 6ft tall double-mouth horns with multiple internal panels (28 of them) & bends. That's really asking for it. The number of potential leak-paths would be a nightmare, and quite likely negate any experimental results as you will never be certain you have prevented these. The internals of Saburo require almost no damping that can't easily be accessed through the driver cut-out anyway; only a little in the back-chamber is required in 99.9% of the cases.

Yeah, screws will be fine.

Good grief! Not for cabinets this size they won't! Not by themselves. Clamps are what is needed, and lots of them.

I tend to use plenty of PVA when I'm doing this

Likewise.

but I've recently found out that normal silicon sticks things down well if there's plenty of it.

It doesn't do badly & it's good for trim-pieces etc. IIRC Bob (Brines) uses it to stick his oval-shaped baffles onto the front of his cabinets, but I wouldn't try sticking together a cabinet with it.
 
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Hi Scott,

Ok, I take your point that now is the time to really slow down and take care to make sure the internals are perfectly level.

Plane down anything sticking up; build up anything that is too short.

Build it up with No More Nails. Oh, looks from Google, that this product is a construction adhesive.

So the picture I'm getting is that I use it on the edges of the internal bits, so that any gap between them and the side of the speaker will be filled.

And either use that, or wood glue around the edges of the other panels to glue the remaining side down.

And then clamp the hell out of it.

Is that about how you suggest I go with it?
 
Wow.

I bought 2 bar clamps like that at Home depot -- they look like the 12" model, but I think they're 18 inches... $19.00 bucks each! : /

Oh well -- I'm not gonna chance squandering the cost of the wood, and all the time I've put into these big boys over the cost of a few more clamps.

And, besides, if I build just one more pair of speakers, that effectively cuts the cost in half . . . :p
 
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